Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe i see the whole save the labour cost for other things....but then again im not as rich as others, so thats how i work. Plus im always keen for the experience, it can only help.

I hear ya ! I do as much spanner work as possible on my car...in the long run im pretty sure im saving money. But i have made a few mistakes, and the older i get it seems the less time i have to do things on my car.

I try to make my GTR on turbonetics 62-1 stg V .63 - T3 hot side. http://www.turboneticsinc.com/turbomatrix.htm

I try to calculate it and study compresor map and I think it well be fit witch small lag. I hope it well be like gt3240 garett.

In Poland it cost me

turbo 1000$ US dol

mainflod 300$

wg 100$

downpipe and all pipe work 200$ by my self

For me it is a cheapest option (I broke my std turbo)

I have Blitz sus power intake stock AFM, exhaust 88mm, walbro fuel pump, fuel pressure and I make chip by my self.

If I well have 450hp+ at flywell and quick response i would be happy.

Do you think it is possible (maybe I buy turbine on monday if you agre witch my project)

Second reason is that car must be lefthand drive and it well be easier to do it witch single downpipe.

I make the conversion RHD->LHD for R33 - www.skyracing.pl

i dont know much about turbonetics turbos, they are not as popular here as they are in the USA (and Europe).

But it sounds like you have it all figured out. Please let us know how it turns out. :laugh:

Hey beer baron, i worked on a R33 S2 adn we put in a RB26, because he wanted GTR status but in RWD mode. While doing that i told him that the chance of one of the ceramic wheels from the turbs could die on him and f**k the engine up. so we bought a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo, it had a BB core etc, i was quite sruprised what we could acieve with it. the mods on that car are, cam gears, nismo 550cc injectors, PFC, Z32 AFM's, Pods, nismo fuel punp etc but we made 400-420HP on a relative safe tune. the manifold he constructed himself. but the turbonetics is on full song at about 2900-3000, so better than stock response, and i dont think it robs the car of top end because when we stuck the Gtech in it showed consistant accelaration.

if people claim a big single is better for big power than big twins (not saying they are right), then by that logic wouldn't a smaller single be better for moderate power than low mount twins?

doesnt keir wilson's gtr run twin trust turbos? one of the quickest (if not the quickest?) gtrs on street tyres in the world

I was always under the impression BFOT was purely for economical reasons? - 1 big turbo is cheaper than two medium turbos that need 2 new dumps, inlets blah, blah, blah

The physics of twin turbo v's single turbo, for the same flow, twins should spool up quicker (less rotational mass) - this is what I have been led to beleive...

can someone shed light on this?

Im under the impression that one turbo should be more efficient than two at the end of the day, as one 500hp turbo will not be twice as big internally as two 250hp turbo's. we did a gtr with everything standard except the hot side with a gt35R .63ex, made an easy 309rwkw at 16 psi, and comes on earlier than the stock setup, with cam timing and 19psi, 350rwkw should be in reach.

On th physics of the twin setup, there will be les rotational mass for sure, but lets say the flow measuered at the intake pipe is about 100 cfm, than the flow of each turbo given they both have the same shaft speed should be 50 cfm. they can spool earlier because of the smaal rotational mass, but youd also have to consider that they have half the exhaust flow available, for a response setup id use twins, but for outright top end HP id still use a big single to retain some response. its what your after.

single for the win. one you go single you cant go back.

ive driven a few rb26,s most with twins. 2530's gtss,34n1 all were pretty good. but they felt quite lasy and were slow to boost.

ie.. they start building boost quite low but dont reach the target boost till quite late. the norm with those was 1 bar at around 4500 in a meadium loaded gear.

thats the same as my t04z. with less power from the twins. :sick:

i persomaly prefer the single. maintance is easier and it looks tough. but you kinda loose the rb26 howl at hi revs. but thts ok the external gate makes up for it :sick:

  • 1 year later...

well I wimped out and now have:

HKS GT-SS

tomei expreme manifolds

tomei expreme dump pipes

HKS stainless front pipes (twin 76mm into single 90mm)

twin nismo AFMs

all going onto an R34 Nur N1 motor (built by prime garage with head work, cams, oil control mods, metal head gasket etc).

will also put in the full Greddy piping kit, and a new ARC intercooler.

BUT

seeing this thread again has got me longing for a SST or MST... now that my engine is pretty decently sorted I could probably even cope with a SBST (semi big single turbo). or the daddy BST/BFOT. perhaps a T04Z would be good for it? I really only want something between 320 and 350rwkw.

So I pretty much want a turbo running at it's peak at this power. No point getting a T04Z and making this power at a pissy 14psi.

so the question is:

what turbo, running at say 18-22psi will deliver me between 320 and 350rwkw with lots of torque? is T04Z too big in any of the available HKS housing configurations? I also have 4.375:1 diff gears F+R so that will help make the car feel very responsive.

Hey bb

that sounds like a sweet setup, i think u should keep going ahead with it and see what its like to drive before swapping over to whatever sized single.

Im not sure what turbo would be best for you but im looking for 300rwkw and hoping the GT3040 can pull it on 1bar on a 26/30 with about 8.3 cr

If i had the money id love to go a set of tomei cams and cp pistons(9.0 cr), spool rods, tomei oil pump, ati/ross balancer(7500rpm maybe :P)

Since i dont pay for labour i think ill go the stock rebuild of the rb30 with stock gtr cams, and oil pump and 7000rpm rev limit, and move onto the above line later...

Edited by 2630GTS

yeah well my total engine parts list so far is (and 90% already bought):'

R34 Nur N1 crate motor

prime garage built head

tomei metal head gasket

oil restrictor

tomei valve springs

tomei cams 260/9.15

tomei sump baffles

GTS4 diff gears

sard 700cc injectors

sard fuel rail

sard fuel reg

nismo fuel pump

nismo engine mounts

nismo air flow meters

HKS GTSS turbos

tomei manifolds

tomei dumps

HKS front pipes

trust hard pipe kit

apexi power intake kit (thinking of swapping for the FULL trust suction kit)

of course lots of other bits like oil cooler, PFC, EBC already in use. But I could flog most of that suff and get a small T04Z or even a 3037 and get similar power. on the other hand the above set-up is what I thought would be best for track, and my head tells me that's probably the case. but my heart says GO SINGLE! tough choice.

Very nice list BB!

Im planning on a single for these reasons in no particular order

1. Its going in a gtst with a gtst pfc therefore 1afm, 02 sensor etc already in place (more messing around for TT)

2. I think a turbo with external gate on a high quality exhaust manifold is technically less compromised that a twin system in the space available in the engine bay.

3. I just want a high mount.

4. Im pretty happy with the 215ish rwkw i have now from my rb20 and the response of the HKS2530 with it being nicely sized and all. I guess im just trying to emulate that as well with the 26/30 looking for 300ish rwkw or same as the rb20, about 100rwkw/per 1000cc's

I do like the idea of twins and an airbox so i can make it look stock but that kinda went out the window awhile ago :P

Edited by 2630GTS
  • 3 years later...

so was doin a bit of thread mining today and come back across this thread and wondered if anyone had finally put a gt3037 on a gtr in single form? was thinkin with the new gtx series available in a 3037/3076 it would be a good choice for a single to make 300-350kw. makes me wanna buy a gtr just so i can do it and see if its as mad as i think it would be. think gtx3076 with a .82 tial housing high mounted on a 6boost manifold with a 50mm gate. :w00t:

Edited by drag-on silvia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...