Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ran into a problem, its time for my gearbox oil to be changed and who ever owned this before i did has put some type of synthetic oil in it, its bright blue .. yes thats right hahah nar its not the funny when you think about it.

Well does anyone know what type of oil this maybe? because if i run a diffrent oil now it will kill my gearbox.

Anyone seen this oil before???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140875-what-the-hell-is-this~~/
Share on other sites

are you lookin to use the same oil? i doubt you will kill your box if you put a different oil in it. ring a trans specialist and ask what type of oil they'd recomend. redlines seems to be pretty good.

and dont redline oils come in weird colours like that?

are you lookin to use the same oil? i doubt you will kill your box if you put a different oil in it. ring a trans specialist and ask what type of oil they'd recomend. redlines seems to be pretty good.

and dont redline oils come in weird colours like that?

Dont normally work on cars like this im abit new to all this stuff but as a rule if you use the wrong gearbox oil you do destroy them its sunday btw =D just seeing if anyone knew i will be ringing tomorrow.

Penrite Lim slip Diff oil is blue, but im just shit stirring you that it would be that, unless some muzza owned the car before you. lol

Im agreeing its some exotic expensive oil, I thought shock proof was red....lol cant remember

don't mean to hijack this thread but when do u change gbox oils? and where do u put them in?

Do a search....D.I.Y.......it will show you the two bolts you need to unscrew.

:sick:

The oil is lighweight-shockproof and available through Bursons and is about $110 dollars...each store has a different price.(?)

At least this is what I found out when calling a few up in my area.

Fill it up until it overflows......

What problem are you having anyway because normally this oil is used when you are having some problems.

It might be a waste of time ...especially if you need to over-haul the unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...