Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks D,

That helps out alot....

I am wanting to go with a L2Xet ECU cos i dont have the cash for a full system(and tuning...)

I have a fuel only computer in a kit, it adjusts the signal from AFM to ECU,

so if the mixture goes under 14.7:1 or whatever it is, i can up the fuel at the revs that its happening at... there is a way to have different fuel maps on a pc, and change between the ones i want ie. Fuel economy mode, street mode, and animal mode!!

But this is fuel only, not ignition adv./retard (i got another idea for that...)

A good thing about this kit is i can change the AFM to whatever i want...even a RB25 hotwire !

(for example not actual figures of course...)if a stock vane type AFM puts out a signal of 1v at 2000rpm, 2v at 3000rpm 2.5 at 4000rpm

and i install a hotwire, and the output is all different... like 0.8 v at 2000RPM, all i need to do is adjust the signal to compensate for the drop... so add 0.2v at 2000rmp to match the origonal output of the vane type....

Personally this is a hell of alot of dicking around, with the same result as useing a L28et or L20et vane type AFM.

the only possible benefit i can think of is less intake restriction, which means quicker throttle response and quicker spool up??

With the sedan from canberra, i would love to buy it and transfer the parts/engines etc but his car requires many more dollars of road worthy repairs than mine, plus the drum brake rear end the sedan has....

And i dont really have a spare $1800, plus whatever it takes to bring it down here! I could part out the rest, but i seriously think i wouldnt get much more than $400 in parts...(that might cover the towing...)

I just need to save more, and hope he doesnt sell it before i can pay for it!

Its probably worth it in parts, since its all there apart from an intercooler

but i dont have the cash right now.

I might start thinking about a loan of someone or something like that...

But hey if anyone needs parts (apart rom the turbo stuff) let me know... we might be able to help each other out

Cheers to ya!

P.S.

(yes this is me 25km of the coast of Tasmania... looking for this giant red shrimps that hide under boulders....)

post-32896-1169696831.jpg

  • Replies 201
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There is probably an advantage using the L28ET ECU over the L20 in that the L20 probably has the speed restriction to 180kph that the US L28 probably doesn't have. I don't know either way but I want to do more than 180k as my speedo goes to 260k.

Cheers, D

There is probably an advantage using the L28ET ECU over the L20 in that the L20 probably has the speed restriction to 180kph that the US L28 probably doesn't have. I don't know either way but I want to do more than 180k as my speedo goes to 260k.

Cheers, D

I reckon i wouldnt have a problem with that...

I have been married for 6 months, got no reason to go over 180km/h... yet! need brakes first! (AND FLIP UP NUMBER PLATES...)

I have some good Eletronic Engineers here at work (we design mobile networks, private (telstra, 3G etc) and government...) im absolutly positive we could bypass it....(the limiter that is...)

i think there would be a relay that receives speed intput, so i could just bypass that, and run a different sender to the dash...

I dont mind what i use, but the L28et definitley runs better fuel maps, and i wouldnt have much problem with detonation/pinging etc then eh!....

attached is my interior...

post-32896-1169699119.jpg

I reckon i wouldnt have a problem with that...

I have been married for 6 months, got no reason to go over 180km/h... yet! need brakes first! (AND FLIP UP NUMBER PLATES...)

I have some good Eletronic Engineers here at work (we design mobile networks, private (telstra, 3G etc) and government...) im absolutly positive we could bypass it....(the limiter that is...)

i think there would be a relay that receives speed intput, so i could just bypass that, and run a different sender to the dash...

I dont mind what i use, but the L28et definitley runs better fuel maps, and i wouldnt have much problem with detonation/pinging etc then eh!....

attached is my interior...

the L20et ecu doesnt have a speed cut, Actaully the speed cut is setup in the back of the speedo. with a contact pin/switch, Its just a matter of removing it.

With the L serries Injection, (eccs) its primitive, Alot of people have tryed to install SAFC's and over kind of fuel adjustment items With no luck. The problem lies with the unstable Tach feed from the ecu/coil. Most need a strong stable feed. 90% dont have. Searching Hybridz will bring up the results

A few are out there that can coap with this type of system I acutally saw one on ebay a while ago that was deisned for L6 serries

the L20et ecu doesnt have a speed cut, Actaully the speed cut is setup in the back of the speedo. with a contact pin/switch, Its just a matter of removing it.

With the L serries Injection, (eccs) its primitive, Alot of people have tryed to install SAFC's and over kind of fuel adjustment items With no luck. The problem lies with the unstable Tach feed from the ecu/coil. Most need a strong stable feed. 90% dont have. Searching Hybridz will bring up the results

A few are out there that can coap with this type of system I acutally saw one on ebay a while ago that was deisned for L6 serries

Have you heard anything good or bad about the US made Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, as they can be landed in the country for about AU$500.00.

Cheers, D

Have you heard anything good or bad about the US made Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, as they can be landed in the country for about AU$500.00.

Cheers, D

Ive heard everything great about the megasquirt systems. Id love one. And i can get one landed for about 390 here, and assembled and tested for a doz beer. :miner: Great new thing that they are running on these are the self tunning system, You need a wideband O2 sensor. Tunes itself to a good base tune. :laugh:

The downside, and this is the main reasion why i will not go this way, The support is limited here in NZ. All tunners cannot/dont know how to tune megasquirts. Only american tunners have great knowledge. Ill be saving for a LEM g3. OR A TEC3. Im deffinitly turning towards the new Link g3. due to detialed tunning, Suport here in NZ. cost is $1300inc NZ$

Have you heard anything good or bad about the US made Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, as they can be landed in the country for about AU$500.00.

Cheers, D

Yup, I am running one on my DR30. Great bit of kit. I have had mine for 18 months now. Cost? $500 fitted (TPS and MAT sensor cost extra).

Tuning is straightforward, as with any other programmable ECU. Yes, with a wideband O2 sensor it will autotune, and extrapolate the load points that are difficult to reach / sustain.

Funny that it was brought up. That Canberra R30 is about 30 seconds away from my house, and exactly half way between me and the builder/tuner of my Megasquirt!

I didn't realise that there were interested parties in it. I had heard that it had a turbo, but I wasn't prepared to offer him any more than $500 for it. He could keep the engine/transmission. I am really only interested in the wheels, and perhaps the front guards and front bumper.

We are currently putting a ca18 into dans 1600. Going to be running megasquirt after running the motor in on the standard ecu.

Megasquit 1 v2.2, pre-assembled for 240usd and about 30usd for express postage.

Cheers,

Waz

P.s...I think i still got a l20et ecu and afm hangin around if anyone needs one still.

Yup, I am running one on my DR30. Great bit of kit. I have had mine for 18 months now. Cost? $500 fitted (TPS and MAT sensor cost extra).

Tuning is straightforward, as with any other programmable ECU. Yes, with a wideband O2 sensor it will autotune, and extrapolate the load points that are difficult to reach / sustain.

Funny that it was brought up. That Canberra R30 is about 30 seconds away from my house, and exactly half way between me and the builder/tuner of my Megasquirt!

I didn't realise that there were interested parties in it. I had heard that it had a turbo, but I wasn't prepared to offer him any more than $500 for it. He could keep the engine/transmission. I am really only interested in the wheels, and perhaps the front guards and front bumper.

Do you have any contact details for this ECU builder/tuner as I would like to talk to him about maybe one for my L20/29et eventually?

Canberra is only a couple of hours away from me.

Cheers, D

  • 4 weeks later...

post-32191-1172808414.jpg

post-32191-1172809262.jpg

I'm in a spot of bother regarding L20ET ECU's as well...

mine is on the fritz and have found someone with a second hand one... still unsure if it will work with my motor..

heres a couple of shots.. the black one being mine and the grey one is the potential one..

any thoughts

Need part numbers mate...

i had them some where, will check soon.

(maybe ask big JC, )

as we speak the ecu i have for my turbo project is being checked out by an ecu expert and he seems to think that there were actually 2 different L20ET ecu's one with a single plug and the other with the 3 plug configuration but i will have a definent awnser in the next week or so

  • 1 month later...

Anyone got any L20et parts out there???

I missed out on a complete engine on ebay (went for $300)

Its really starting to piss me off how hard it is to get stuff for this project....

Rb20det is starting to look good, even though a L24et has more 'uniqueness' etc, atleast theres 1000's of parts available for RB's, not 10 or 20 parts for L's....

Ah f*k i guess im just young and impatient, i see the old girl sitting there everyday gathering dust and huge muther funken huntsman spiders... iv had enough of driving the shitty pintara everywhere too! (uses too much fuel for a daily)

i got desparate and offered a good price to the L20et owner... SCORE!!!

Will have a full L20et setup (everything under the bonnet) in 2 weeks or so!

only thing mising is power steering pump, and the gay lil turbo...

so i will be stripping it down, getting ready to build my L24et!

The plan is:

Get the car roadworthy and get registered ( brakes, exhaust, tyres, wiper blades etc.)

Get all the parts ready to go into car

Manifolds, injectors

piping

turbo

ECU/loom/plugs

blah blah

get engine out, and start the transplanting...

WooHoo!!!

Now if anyone needs a L20et block, head, and other shit that is seemingly useless to me, let me know.... i wont get much for them from the metal recyclers!

The gearbox is already spoken for...

your a clown, you always saying you can not afford to pay me the money you owe me (yes this punk owes me money)...

but yet you are trying to bid on a motor on ebay for $300. Whats the go there?

btw folks, he cannot cough up $45 bucks, he has been telling me for 3 weeks his broke and cannot afford to pay me $45.

and also his stupid enough not to know where he lives!

bought a SMIC off me for $20 via COD, then gives me the wrong address (yes this fool doesn't know where he lives) and a result of that AustPost sends the item back to me.

Brilliant, get slapped with a $22.50 bill for postage up his farken way and back to my place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...