Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Now that the hks is not a option....Would a standard manifold thats been extrude honed produce the same power if not better then the 6boost ones? Im from WA and havent heard of any companies here that can extrude mine. Cbf sending it over east. Rather just order a 6boost one.

Spoke to the supplier of the HKs manifold. They actually do mount the turbo lower and on a slightly different angle then stock. In the case where im using a HKS GT2835 and turbinless kit...its pointless.

Longer oil and water lines need to b made

New dump pipe

Modify or Make a new intake pipe

Block off the external wastegate provision or Use an external gate and disconnect the internal gate. That sucks!

Now that the hks is not a option....Would a standard manifold thats been extrude honed produce the same power if not better then the 6boost ones? Im from WA and havent heard of any companies here that can extrude mine. Cbf sending it over east. Rather just order a 6boost one.

You do realise the 6boost manifolds are high mount...

Your going to have to make the same modifications as the turbo instead of being mounted lower will be mounted higher.

You do realise the 6boost manifolds are high mount...

Your going to have to make the same modifications as the turbo instead of being mounted lower will be mounted higher.

ahh the beauty of modified OEM :mad:

Sorry to say that it may be a while before i can show you on-car results, as i am not in the same country as my car, and have to organise other people to do stuff for me..

With turbine housings it can work very well mainly because it takes the ridges off the internal passage and reduces the depth of that boundary layer effect you get with fluid flow . Also any casting flash goes as well . The process is good for manifolds because it takes more from the constriction points ie round bends where its difficult/impossible to get at any other way .

Getting them ceramic coating does the same thing with regards to surface finish. Im interested to know if someone has had a manifold extrude honed then tried to ceramic coat them. Doesw the ceramic coating have any problem in the smoother surface?

Getting them ceramic coating does the same thing with regards to surface finish. Im interested to know if someone has had a manifold extrude honed then tried to ceramic coat them. Doesw the ceramic coating have any problem in the smoother surface?

I was considering ceramic coating it also! But then it really starts to add up cost wise.

The guy that did my manifold told of a stock SR manifold that whilst on the dyno would glow red, and once ex honed, it would not glow, due to the smoother passage of air and less friction/restriction. This would mean less heat radiated from the mani and lower underbonet temps, i could only imagine ceramic coating making the situation even cooler! Yet doesnt the process cost around as much as the honing process itself?

depending on how long it takes me to organise to get the manifold put back on, if some spare dollars come up i may yet do it, as id ultimately like to make the stock mani as good as it could possibly be before bolting it all back up!

Any comments on my after results? Whilst the runners dont flow as consistent as the HKS mani, the overall figures are higher than those posted for an HKS extrude honed mani. Does this mean that my stock item is now as good if not better than an HKS one, or even an ex honed HKS one??!@

HKS ex honed avg 201

Stock ex honed avg 202

I was going to get my HKS manifold ceramic coated after I had it honed but was advised against by both james and compition coatings as there would be a chance, how ever slight, that it might peal of the inside on the smooth surfaces but the outside no worries ,So still debating on wheather to get it done

Cheers Peter

6boost manifolds do come in low mount. Only thing is that they bolt the turbo not exactly in standard postion. Instead the turbo flange faces down rather then out 90 degree to the block. Once again no good with turbo kits. Any idea whats need/modifed to suit hks gt2835 kit?

  • 5 months later...

check out these two manifolds, HPI on the left and x-force on the right

Seems like the HPI has a better design then the xforce...It seems to be equal length and merge smoother and in the same direction at the turbo flange..Considering the stock turbo postion is very restrictive, HPI has done not a bad job??

post-36273-1179293606_thumb.jpg

i have tested back to back with std turbo and those styles of manifolds and found no decent increase, the HPI style on the other hand does offer a noticeable increase.

the only place i can seem to find them is directly from HPI in japan

http://web.mac.com/emihpi/iWeb/Site%2017/E...20Manifold.html

Does anyone know of any australian distributors? Are they durable or prone to crack? Do they bolt on without furthur modifications?

cheers

Edited by ovabooster

im no expert in exhaust manifold but man are the xforce crap! I only really noticed when i sat them both side by side...Just look at how the exhaust gases would flow when leaving the cylinder head...Almost at a 90 degree angle!! Not smooth at all...then look at runners 2 and 3....flow at 90 degress to the 1st runner!!! Big time turbulance...Lastly notice how all the runners merge onto the turbo flange...instead of entering directly into the turbine housing, its off to the side...Correct me if im wrong thou? Just my 2 cents :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...