Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Boot Stuck Shut

shoebox

By shoebox,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
Posted

The boot on my R33 is jammed shut. The boot release lever at the side of the driver's seat doesn't have the normal pressure when i pull it, and although i hear a faint sound when i press the boot release button on my alarm system, the boot doesn't unlock.

I've tried pulling up the boot with the lever up but it doesn't work.. i suspect it's the locking mechanism or boot which is jammed or something.. and it probably happened a few days ago when my friend slammed the boot shut =_=

It's kinda hard to describe, but the left hand side of the boot is slightly open, but the right hand side of the boot is closed (I an tell by looking at the gap between the body and the boot), so the boot is actually closed at a slight angle.

The lock on the boot is broken too, so I can't use the key to open it.

Is there any way which I can get it to open again? I've thought of removing the back seats to access the lock from the inside, but how do I do that, and will it help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146509-r33-boot-stuck-shut/
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Nah... unless you can reach through the speaker holes, you can't get through to the boot like that.

It shouldn't half open unless something is jamming the arms that the boot swivels on. There is only one latch that holds it shut.

As for the loose handle, it's possible that the wire has come loose... If you have a look under the carpet, you should see how to adjust it. (or pull it with a pair of pliers until the boot opens)

Carpet... carefully pry one side of the skyline door-sill up, then move your hands across, and unclip the next etc etc. From there, you can unhook the side of the carpet and have a better look at the mechanism.

I've heard of people drilling the lock out and replacing it when they were stuffed. I guess you really don't want to do that, so check the cable tension first. =-]

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

Worst comes to worst, if you need to get into the boot to fix the lock, you can remove the back seat, then remoev the boot inspection panel. There is a lot of stuff in the way, but that can be unbolted from the cabin and moved.

you might not be able to crawl through the hole, but a small kid can.

The hole is sharp though.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Sounds like something is jammed on one side of the boot, causing excessive pressure on the lock, which can prevent the release mechanism from releasing.

Gently apply downward pressure on the lifted side, then press the boot release button on your remote and try to lift your hand quickly. Timing is the key. You can also get someone to hold the lever up, while you push down on the boot and then release it (boot lid).

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Al said:
Sounds like something is jammed on one side of the boot, causing excessive pressure on the lock, which can prevent the release mechanism from releasing.

Gently apply downward pressure on the lifted side, then press the boot release button on your remote and try to lift your hand quickly. Timing is the key. You can also get someone to hold the lever up, while you push down on the boot and then release it (boot lid).

Doesn't work :stupid:

I got someone to hold the lever up while i pressed down on the lifted side.. the car went down but the boot didn't, and it's still stuck.

Maybe i should get a locksmith to open it...

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  RANDY said:
You haven't mentioned anywhere that you've tried the key? Unless I missed that somewhere.

If the wire is loose, and the lock won't open because of it, then the key will over-ride that anyway.

Yea, you missed it ^_^

The key doesn't fit the lock, so i can't use it.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)
  shoebox said:
Doesn't work :P

I got someone to hold the lever up while i pressed down on the lifted side.. the car went down but the boot didn't, and it's still stuck.

Maybe i should get a locksmith to open it...

Did you get it?

Did you try the boot release button on your remote while your pushing on the boot lid like Al said?

I agree with Al about pressure on the latching mechanism.

Maybe if you dress up an act just like the Fonz and just give the boot a hit it'll open..... hahahah sorry, jokes man :D

edit: spelling

Edited by KeyMakeR33
mr_crust Experienced

mr_crust

Posted
Posted
  MANWHORE said:
Worst comes to worst, if you need to get into the boot to fix the lock, you can remove the back seat, then remoev the boot inspection panel. There is a lot of stuff in the way, but that can be unbolted from the cabin and moved.

you might not be able to crawl through the hole, but a small kid can.

The hole is sharp though.

thats the easiest way to do it, to remove the rear seat takes 4-5 mins max, then there is a dozen or so 10mm bolts and your into the boot , on once in manually open the boot from the inside , then once u have it open diagnose the issue.

if there is no pressure on the lever in the cabin, it may also be snapped the cable

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There is a 'valet' switch that disables the remote release. It's possible that something in the boot has accidentally knocked it to the 'valet' position.

If your key lock is broken, you may need to get a locksmith (as mentioned previously) to break in for you.

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Al said:
Any reason why one side of the boot was higher than the other?

No idea. That side is still like 1/3 a cm higher than the other.. but it still opens, so i'm not really concerned about it. It doesn't look like rain will go in too, so it's okay.

I thought something was stuck too, until today.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I'd guess that the rubber stoppers are taller on one side than the other? The bonnet rubbers are adjustable by winding them in and out, but I didn't think the boot ones were?

Well, if the cable was loose, than my manual method should have worked! (pulling up the side of the carpet, disconnecting the cable, then pulling on it by hand... or ajusting the cable tension)

  Quote
if there is something that could possibly be putting pressure on the boot, i'd go for a quick lap around the block doing some hard stopping and swerving to see if that helps.

Dude! That's a sweet idea! I'm going to try this right now! (I don't have any issues with my boot though?) =-]

Still, that's a great idea for anyone who got something stuck under the boot-arm. I used to get PC's stuck under mine, and you can't shift them over with a coat-hanger!

  • 2 weeks later...
jetpilot Enthusiast

jetpilot

Posted
Posted

25th December 2006 @ 14.30

Whilst cleanin the boot out i manage to play with a metal plate inside the boot lid. (not knowing it was the valet switch)

19.30 Whilst travelling down Pitt St in Sydney I managed to get a samell metal fragment in my tyre. (resulting in a flat tyre)

19.31 I realised the boot was not releasing from the boot leaver inside the cabin. No tension at all behind the leaver. Just free air when u pull it up.

19.32 I decided to try the boor lock. It didnt work. The lock is broken. It keeps on making a ticking sound but nothing happens.

19.32: 15 ...I start to swear.

19.34 I try other methods...no good. So I baby it all the way back to Liverpool.

21:00 got home in one piece.

26/12/2006 @01:46 I read this thread and I will try the boot cable under the carpet 1st. So how I go tomorrow to get to the spare.

Why is that Valwt switched linked to the leaver....or is that the safety feature of it or am I totally worng and it is only coincidence???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...