Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All in all not starting a debate here, what do you mean the R32 is a more aggreseive preformer?

Whats the quicker car? I thought the R33 was. What are their stock Power Figures?

i think the means the way the power comes on

R32, looks better, isnt a barge, lighter, not as many around, felt nicer to drive and i drove 33s, 180s...

drive the both and then decide, thats what made my decision

Dont listen to Ed

He is drunk and his judgement cant be trusted :laugh:

I don't know how you determined that the ugly poos aren't as common. They sure as hell are common on george street on a sat ngiht. Anyone with 10k can pick up an ugly poo.

Even if they are less common, that's just because half of the ugly poos (32) with their vl looking exterior and vn looking interior (do your headlight and wiper knobs look familiar) have broken down or been written off.

The old vw beetles aren't very common. does that make it a good car :D

Oh ok, so the ugly poo drove better? not half of the ones that i've driven with their busted arse old suspensions and worn bushes (most of the old ones need work done).

Why exactly do you hate r32's so much? Im not a big fan of 33's but I respect all skylines and still appreciate the car for what it is. I chose an r32 because i prefered it NOT because i couldnt afford a 33, i didnt want a 33.... but whatever ppl that write things like you do dont listen to other ppl that disagree.

I don't hate r32s at all. I am a fan of all skylines. It just so happens that I have both an r33 and an r32.

It's just that r32 drivers always seem to love knocking r33s calling them boats, barges etc, so I merely respond.

I never start calling r32s bad stuff, I merely respond.

performance wise an r33 is quicker. it has more power and only weighs a touch more, and its easier to get power out of a rb25.

r32 weighs about 1320kg with 158kw, thats 120kw/ton.

r33 weighs about 1370kg with 184kw, thats 134kw/ton.

i prefer the interior of the r33. its more modern looking. the exterior of them i think they can both look good, and they can both look bad.

i think the means the way the power comes on

yeah pretty much, between the 2 cars i had/ have the 32 would be quicker and more lively upto 100klm but then the 33 would nose in front after that

oh and mad082: thats on paper, its a very different story when you drive them both... try getting their gear ratio's and final drive and add that into the equation :woot: , and the lil rb has a higher redline :wave:

what revs does an rb20 hit full boost by? my 33 hits it by under 3000rpm. i have been in a few 32s and none have gone as well as 33's i have been in. they have all had the same mods, just cooler, exhaust, pod and a boost increase. they are just too laggy. r33's don't seem that fast by seat of the pants in the drivers seat because they pull from such a low rpm. silvias and r32s come in higher so it feels like they pull harder, but it is just because they pull less down low. but if you keep both up in the rev range the r33 feels better.

I never start calling r32s bad stuff, I merely respond.
I don't know how you determined that the ugly poos aren't as common. They sure as hell are common on george street on a sat ngiht. Anyone with 10k can pick up an ugly poo.

Even if they are less common, that's just because half of the ugly poos (32) with their vl looking exterior and vn looking interior (do your headlight and wiper knobs look familiar) have broken down or been written off.

Hrmmm, im confused :thumbsup:

Edited by r32line
what revs does an rb20 hit full boost by? my 33 hits it by under 3000rpm. i have been in a few 32s and none have gone as well as 33's i have been in. they have all had the same mods, just cooler, exhaust, pod and a boost increase. they are just too laggy. r33's don't seem that fast by seat of the pants in the drivers seat because they pull from such a low rpm. silvias and r32s come in higher so it feels like they pull harder, but it is just because they pull less down low. but if you keep both up in the rev range the r33 feels better.

my 33 hits +boost by 2200rpm-ish the 32 i am talking about hit positive boost around 2500rpm-ish, they were both stock except 3in cat back, once modified the rb25 shits all over the 20 with out a doubt . dont forget that the 25 runs 7psi stock and the 32 runs 10psi.... but the 33 turbo flows better :thumbsup:

R32's (and R32 engined R31's) have all gone pretty well, love the way they rev, its peaky, but you do suffer at lower revs.

whereas a stock engined R33 comes onto boost so quickly you hardly notice it, full boost under 3000, its extremely linear.. but it doesnt rev as high.

modified, the 25 will really start to show its colors.

so, go for the best of both worlds;

an R32 with an RB25? :)

33 kills the 32 in stock form. All though modified i'd love an r32 track/drift with rb25, huge turbo, roll-cage, minimal interior and extra weight removed but that's not quite stock.

"Kills" ..... I think that might be a bit of an exageration... no question the 33 stock is faster than the 32 stock but i wouldnt agree with the word "kills"

The R32 is more of a driver's car, the 33 is more of a cruisy car.

Drive both and think about which kind of car you'd prefer more! The 32's steering/handling gives more feedback and is slightly better, personally i prefered the smaller and tighter interior, it seemed to involve you more than the r33's does. The 33 has a better motor n faster in a straight line, is a newer car and also isn't far behind the 32 round the twisties.

Looks wise R32 > R33

Engine wise Rb25 > Rb20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...