Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i'm buying a GTS4 hopefulyl in about 3-4 days (depending on the NRMA check) and was just wondering in comparrison with the EVO 6 or later how does the GTS4 hold up..They are both 2L both AWD but obviously the skyline is 6cyl and mitsu is a 4. In terms of power and handling which is better. Is there a magazine review or an online article that weighs out the two head to head..or does anyone own one or driven both and compared each?

Cheers for any details!!! Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/
Share on other sites

evo will eat the GTS4 unless the evo is stock and the GTS4 has some serious work done.

the earlier evo's had about the same amount of power but were about 200kg's lighter than a GTS4. the rb20 only has 7kw more than an sr20 and the early GSR motor, but has less torque than them.

a more even match would be a GTiR pulsar and an evo. a GTS4 is more comparable to a GTS-t r32 since they have the same power. the GTS4 will get off the line quicker, but the GTS-t is lighter so once it gets going it will be faster.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2879959
Share on other sites

The Evo will absolutely murder the GTS4.

Both maybe 2L engines but the Evo's 4G63 2L produces a lot more power than the RB20DET in the GTS4.

Not to mention the Evo has a better suspension setup.

No-one bothers matching them head to head as everyone knows the Evo will kill the GTS4.

Evo vs GTR - that's the real comparison.

Oh and I hope you didn't buy a GTS-4 thinking it could beat an Evo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2879960
Share on other sites

Yea i just wasn't 100% sure. So i've gathered that the Evo will destroy power wise but is it really THAT much better in the bends. I bought a GTS4 because of the simple fact stated earlier that its nearly 30k cheaper. Do you guys think that your really gettin 30K more with the evo then the GTS4? Oh and the one i'm hopefully buying has a RB25 in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2880010
Share on other sites

even with the RB25 the evo will munch u unless u have made a fair few mods and the evo is stock.. and as for cornering if u spend about $10k on suspension work u might mach a STOCK evo... its on of the best handeling produstion cars in the world... (and remember i love skylines and am always bias towards them :laugh: )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2880083
Share on other sites

is it a turbo rb25? cause the r33/r34 ones had a natro rb25 in it.

what you have to remember is that sure there is a 20k difference, but they are also a much newer car. so the suspension technology is much better. and they evo is a road/rally car. it is designed to be quick through the bends.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2880115
Share on other sites

Do you guys think that your really gettin 30K more with the evo then the GTS4?

As with all cars, you are facing the law of diminishing returns

Is the Evo $30k better than a GTS4?

Is a BMW M3 $70k better than a Evo?

Is a Porsche 911 $60k better than a M3?

Is a Ferrari F430 $200k better than a Porsche 911?

Is a Lamborghini Murcielago $200k better than a F430?

So really you cannot answer the question on face value - you have to know background factors such as the buyers tastes, needs and budget.

Sure you could put $30k in a GTS4 and get a much better performer than a Evo but in the end the car you have is still older, not worth as much as you put in and possibly more unreliable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2880125
Share on other sites

Yea its a turbo and its upgraded to a T3 with bigger intercooler and ecu and exhaust coilovers, strut brace. Thanks for the input guys and if theres one thing the GTS4's have in advantage is the capability of RWD as well. I think i'm going to get some REAL FAT tyres and that with the coilovers and strut brace should give me plenty of grip through the bends!!

One Q. If for some reason i am unable to get to an AWD dyno, if I put it in RWD and dyno it will the settings stay when its converted back to AWD?

Is it more expensive for an AWD dyno test and run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2880148
Share on other sites

Yea its a turbo and its upgraded to a T3 with bigger intercooler and ecu and exhaust coilovers, strut brace. Thanks for the input guys and if theres one thing the GTS4's have in advantage is the capability of RWD as well. I think i'm going to get some REAL FAT tyres and that with the coilovers and strut brace should give me plenty of grip through the bends!!

One Q. If for some reason i am unable to get to an AWD dyno, if I put it in RWD and dyno it will the settings stay when its converted back to AWD?

Is it more expensive for an AWD dyno test and run?

What settings? A dyno run doesn't change anything, just gets a power measurement. If you are talking about getting a remap or aftermarket ecu, then no difference if done in awd or rwd other than a slight change in the number.

With r32's putting it in rwd is as easy as pullin one of 2 fuses, with an 33 or 34 its a bit harder with dropping the prop shaft.

Edited by heller44
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2881803
Share on other sites

power aside the two cars are completely different

you are comparing a 1990 32 vs a 1997+ evo

the evo would have better average power

better traction

better handling

better seats

better interior

better brakes

better gearbox

and so on...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2881973
Share on other sites

Yea i just wasn't 100% sure. So i've gathered that the Evo will destroy power wise but is it really THAT much better in the bends.

All the Evo's past the VI run AYC. They'll smash a GTS4, which doesn't even have proper ATTESSA, around the bends. The Evo VIII and IX run ACD as well (can't remember if the VII does or not), which will see them even further in the distance.

Technically speaking, the AYD / ACD combo in the modern Evos are the most advanced AWD drivetrains in the world. Far superior, from a technical standpoint, to ATTESSA.

Stock for stock, an Evo is at least as quick as a GT-R of the same age. On the right road, its quicker. Ultimate power wise on an open road that will let you exploit that power the GT-R can nevar lose, but bang for buck on the road or the smaller Australian racetracks its hard to find any car that'll outrun an Evo.

As for value, if you can afford to do light tune mods to an Evo VI or a significantly modified GTS4 I'd take the Evo. If you can barely afford an Evo but you can comfortably afford to mod a GTS4, buy the GTS4. The latter might only be as quick as the stock Evo you're scraping to afford, but it'll probably be more fun for the speed. And you'll have cash in pocket in case you break something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154866-gts4-v-evo/#findComment-2882593
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...