Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are cars usually hoisted for rwc checks?

today mine was hoisted and he picked up 3 oil leaks and front castor bushes that were starting to crack and wouldn't grant me the rwc because of these reasons. i always thought it was just a walkaround with short drive to ensure that the car was in a rw condition ie. brakes, tyres, wipers, lights.

are cars usually hoisted for rwc checks?

today mine was hoisted and he picked up 3 oil leaks and front castor bushes that were starting to crack and wouldn't grant me the rwc because of these reasons. i always thought it was just a walkaround with short drive to ensure that the car was in a rw condition ie. brakes, tyres, wipers, lights.

A RWC covers all levels of a cars operation in general terms.

If its leaking oil and bushes are flogged, then most certainly they are RW related issues and will need fixing prior to the issuing of a RWC.

It also includes a short drive to test the brakes and other features a car requires when in motion.

Cheers

thanks heaps for the info.

was just a bit surprised that it was hoisted and the undercarriage checked. seemed almost like a pre-purchase inspection.

No problem mate, the both are pretty much the same thing. a pre-purch will go over exactly the same things as a roadworthy in terms of car operation.

But a pre-perch just goes over other things like body repairs/interior conditon and other non road going requirements a buyer might have

Hi guys I had my car roadworthied today they picked up a number of small and largish things that needed to be fixed just wondering how much some of it is going to cost.

1. Lost alarm (I fixed that already)

2. Loose Radiator Support (Fixed Too)

3. Turbo timers are illegal (???)

4. Power steering pump leaking

5. Tie rod boots cracked

6. headlights not aimed (how do I adjust these??)

7. Plumback BOV's are illegal???

Keepin in mind that this rwc was done at ford so they'd be strict..how many of these things can I probably get away with at your everyday mechanics?? ANd what are the most important things??

thanks,

Andrew

Hi guys I had my car roadworthied today they picked up a number of small and largish things that needed to be fixed just wondering how much some of it is going to cost.

1. Lost alarm (I fixed that already)

2. Loose Radiator Support (Fixed Too)

3. Turbo timers are illegal (???)

4. Power steering pump leaking

5. Tie rod boots cracked

6. headlights not aimed (how do I adjust these??)

7. Plumback BOV's are illegal???

Keepin in mind that this rwc was done at ford so they'd be strict..how many of these things can I probably get away with at your everyday mechanics?? ANd what are the most important things??

thanks,

Andrew

1) -

2) -

3) Correct, requires removal, or disconnection (and hide the unit) = free

4) $250

5) $200

6) $100-150, see an Auto Elec, they will fix it.

7) You drive a TX-5... if they didnt come factory with one, then you need to remove it

cheers

but you only have an up down, side-to-side, adjustments. You can't affect the light output/pattern manually. That's all determined by the globes used, and the reflectors/projectors.

So really, what you need is maybe some guideline saying that at a distance of x metres, the light cutoff should be x metres above the ground (using a wall/garage door).

It's not like there is a 'focus' adjustment. Well, at least not for the R34 headlights.

zorb: how exactly did they determine that your headlights weren't aimed correctly?

Sorry guys this is for my r33 gtst I just brought should have been more specific :P

not sure how the determine that my bro is a mechanic he ssid when the used to do them..they just showed a bit of cardboard a meter infront of the beam to make sure it was focused... wtf??? too abd he is in perth or Id have him doing all this lol....

With the turbo timer I was always under the assumption that if the turbo timer was wired into the park brake it was legal..???

also with the power sterring pump reckon a quick wipe around the pump and a couple of bottles of stop leak will fix it for now???

Edited by zorb_rules

as far as i know, the only way to focus headlights is to have the factory spec globe in there. The reflectors have been designed for the specific light output/pattern of the globe Nissan used. Doesn't mean you have to use an OEM globe, but i would guess that is preferably in this situation to make sure it's all cleared up.

Sounds like it's not a highly technical procedure they were using, hence i reckon you can do this yourself. Make sure the globes haven't been changed to some crappy "blue" look globes, or "ultra white" etc, etc... or worse still, and after market HID conversion. Different coloured globes can cause the light output to be out of whack a little.

hey fellas, this probably doesnt belong here but oh well.. apparantly, the manual rb20det r32 is over the power/weight ratio and is considered p-plate illegal, whereas the auto is fine. my friend backed this statement up by saying that he was shown the stat sheet by the TMU which is clearly states that. anyone know if this is true?

apparently there is also different YEARS of R32 GTS-T's which are legal/illegal. The auto thing could very well be true if they are getting that specific with the build date. Auto might make it just that little bit heavier, and just scrape under the limit.

Buy an auto, do a conversion :)

hey fellas, this probably doesnt belong here but oh well.. apparantly, the manual rb20det r32 is over the power/weight ratio and is considered p-plate illegal, whereas the auto is fine. my friend backed this statement up by saying that he was shown the stat sheet by the TMU which is clearly states that. anyone know if this is true?

You would need to check the manufacturers specifications on this and do the appropriate calculations.

For the year/type/power etc etc.

The TMU could well be wrong, they have been so in the past on many occasions.

Its a case of owner onus really. Its your responsibility to find these things out

I was of the belief all R32's were not over, but then i have not researched this personally as it does not apply to me.

Cheers

Have anyone passed an epa noise test with aftermarket exhaust with stock cat and rear silencer? My car is really very quiet now.. But according to the exhaust place, it is still 98db . I know it is very subjective how quiet it is as it really depends on individuals but.. just wondering if anyone have passed it before.

Have anyone passed an epa noise test with aftermarket exhaust with stock cat and rear silencer? My car is really very quiet now.. But according to the exhaust place, it is still 98db . I know it is very subjective how quiet it is as it really depends on individuals but.. just wondering if anyone have passed it before.

Hi um i dunno if this helps but i had 3 1/2" catback then i gat the epa notice, so i had a good look at what i had under the car and found a Flange plate just under the the rear axel that had the cannon attatched, so i went to an exhaust place and got them to make the back bit out of 2 1/2" with a nice big quite muffler. It cost me 140 but at least they done what i wanted other places wanted me to replace the lot for 350!. Anyway the test showed a nice quiet 80 db.

I noticed that i had no power, no noise and no fun. so as soon as i passed the test i chucked the cannon back on all better now, and when i get another notice probably next week i already have the solution!

:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...