Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my roadworthy today. Much better than previous place, just had to change the tint on the front windows and get rid of the pfc controller.

Where did you get it done?? Or has anybody got a place that is slightly lenient on us??

heres an interesting question

the car i purchased came with a roady (was less than 30 days ago)

Over the past week ive noticed that there has been an oil leak or two off the bottom of the engine. the main leak is coming from the sump plug hole. Replaced the sump plug in the hope that it was the problem, but it still seams to be leaking. there also seems to be another oil leak, but im unsure where it is.

now here is the question lol

isnt the roady supposed to pick up on such things as oil leaks?

if this is the fact, is there recourse against the shop that issued the roadworthy to fix these problems because they missed them/overlooked such issues?

cheers

They are not meant to sign of a rwc if car has oil leaks...a rwc is valid for 30 days from date issued...if I were you id take the car with the cert back before the 30 days is up, you might have a good chance to get it fixed free of charge.

They are not meant to sign of a rwc if car has oil leaks...a rwc is valid for 30 days from date issued...if I were you id take the car with the cert back before the 30 days is up, you might have a good chance to get it fixed free of charge.

thats what i thought.

however im not a fan of good chances, id rather a full chance

A leak can develop after the RWC is supplied.

You'd have to prove beyond reasonable doube it was there when the cert was signed.

thats what i was worried about.

would the oil/grime caked onto the sump prove?

any other way i could prove it?

From what ive always thought, a rwc check doesnt actually fix any problems if they arise, they only note them down. So if you go in there with leaks they might cancel the certificate and get you to fix them (at your cost) before they will certify it again.

Davey32 you have a PM.

^^

lol

don't like your chances unfortunately, cant hurt to ask but they will be on the defence straight off since your basically saying to them they are in the wrong.. often doesnt go down well

Problem is unless you take a photo of anything wrong straight after buying the car they will just say 'oh that happened after', i'm not talking about really bad stuff like cracked screen or bald tyres, but things like oil leaks or whatever they can be cleaned of for the roady and then start leaking after a few days, no way you can prove otherwise.

i got epa'd, stupid thing is, when they said I was "spotted", I was at work, and my car in the work parking. i didnt even drive through the place.

I've had it cleared but wtf are these idiots doing.

i got epa'd, stupid thing is, when they said I was "spotted", I was at work, and my car in the work parking. i didnt even drive through the place.

I've had it cleared but wtf are these idiots doing.

same thing happened to me, apparently i was driving on a monday night at 12am about 2 weeks before i was heading overseas

thing is i was asleep because we were busy trying to finish off as much work as possible before i left

problem is you cant contest it because they will still say test the car and prove its not to loud etc

same thing happened to me, apparently i was driving on a monday night at 12am about 2 weeks before i was heading overseas

thing is i was asleep because we were busy trying to finish off as much work as possible before i left

problem is you cant contest it because they will still say test the car and prove its not to loud etc

Couldn't you contest it with a factory exhaust? Assuming of course it was on at the time.

they would still ask for you to test it though, thats the thing... there is no point in contesting

at the time i had my old exhaust on anyway, a lot louder than whats on now but thats not the point

i was stung even when i wasnt driving :(

i got epa'd, stupid thing is, when they said I was "spotted", I was at work, and my car in the work parking. i didnt even drive through the place.

I've had it cleared but wtf are these idiots doing.

That's gay that you can get your car epa'd when parked.

Though I woulda thought the wagon would of been safe :ninja:

That's gay that you can get your car epa'd when parked.

Though I woulda thought the wagon would of been safe :ninja:

It is generally safe but we are in Vic, if it's anything to up their commission theyll do it, I remember on my p's driving dads falcon which is stock as a rock. And he got epa'd for the time I was driving. If they can they will. Oh and my car wasn't on ferntree gully rd like they said it was parked in undercover secure parking at work in the cbd

It is generally safe but we are in Vic, if it's anything to up their commission theyll do it, I remember on my p's driving dads falcon which is stock as a rock. And he got epa'd for the time I was driving. If they can they will. Oh and my car wasn't on ferntree gully rd like they said it was parked in undercover secure parking at work in the cbd

can you prove it was parked in the cbd at the time of EPA?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...