Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

It can be done in the car and works without issue. How is it anymore thorough? Totally unnecessary to remove the engine!

Because you can get better access and actually complete the job without needing 2 appointments at the chiropractic afterwards.
  • 2 months later...

I have done it both ways more than once and i much prefer to pull engine UNLESS it has a shit load extra aftermarket gauges, cooler etc etc. I guess you guys want to do everything yourselves to save money and that's ok, but if im gonna put my name on the work i do on your pride and joy as a paying customer, then it gets done my way. How do you go checking the lines on the back around the head? sure would hate to take someones money and have them come back in a week because of a water leak that you missed because you took a short cut

Because you can get better access and actually complete the job without needing 2 appointments at the chiropractic afterwards.


Lol that's what being a mechanic is all about.

Don't have to pull the motor. Just chanel your inner japanese and you will get it done.
  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...

Well I am about to embark on this fun trip to hell.

I am having a bit of a spinup hesitation on one of my newly rebuilt turbos (the rear one).  I have 2 new turbos in a box awaiting installation.  I have full tubular headers, and dumps installed already so I am thinking space will be at premium.  I am not planning to pull the engine but I am planning 3-4 days to do it.  I have new braided lines just incase inthe hard lines don't fit just right.

I am going to also take the opportunity to wrap the y-pipe and dumps as well and install turbo blankets while everything is taken apart.

 

I have no shop manuals or instructions, so I am relying on the good ole internet for any tips.

 

Edited by dunnman99
spelling

 

5 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

To remove the rear turbo, I found it easier to remove the front and dump pipes. But it was more of an exploratory venture than a quick remove-to-replace-gasket job.

I remove the front pipes to give extra room but dumps stay on

Thank you, I guess I should have been more specific this is on an R33 Vspec RB26DETT.

I am planning to remove all intake pieces a day early and then start on exchanging the turbos the following day.  One day for y-pipe removal and wrapping and one day for reassembly.

Thanks, keep the tips coming.  I am building a tip list.  If I have the time, I will attempt to build a tutorial with key operational pics.

 

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...