Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the other week i bought a brand new aftermarket steering wheel. i went to connect the horn. But unfortunately i pushed the brass button (located at the bottom end of the steering wheel) into the steering column. i took it to my mechanic and i asked the TO CONNECT MY AFTERMARKET HORN. anyway i go to drive away and the horn stops working again. so i leave my car there. come back 2 hours later and pick it up. on my way home the horn stops working again. so i take it back to the mechanic and tell them to fix it again. they said to me, "Look mate you are wanting to put an aftermarket part on your car. its your fault it stopped working. you fix the problem. we have had enough. we will tell you how to fix the problem but wont do it for you.

Now i think i deserve my money back. i paid $55.00 for a service which they didnt perform. however, they did open the steering column and put the brass button back in place.

P.s. Once i got home i took off my steering wheel to see why the horn stopped working. it turns out that they sticky taped the wire to the button.

P.S. Do you guys think i deserve my money back because my horn stopped working and they REFUSED to fix it. OR do u think that i dont deserve my money back because they fixed up that brass button. it seems to me like they only performed half the task.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160310-do-i-deserve-my-money-back/
Share on other sites

yeah thats good advice to find a new mechanic.

when i told them i went through my clutch and gearbox they said it wasnt there fault because they replaced BOTH before they sold me the car. Absolute bullshit.

i guess i always take my car there cause they are like 200m down the road.

but in future ill go somewhere else.

thanks fellas

Yeah, it cost you $55 bucks to learn that your mechanic is useless... i say its money well spent

Always have a mechanic you know and trust

When you think of it that way, i have to agree.

If i was spending the big bucks, i would throw $55 away to just know I'm going to a good place.

Dump them, even for the little crap.

there only liable if its their work that is at fault for it keep breaking

if its some cheap ebay china part thats faulty and they keep fixing it but it constantly breaks cause the part is defective or sub standard then its not there fault

but if so they have poorly explained this , i would have fixed it showen you exactly what was the fault causing the issue and explained why its breaking and if it keeps happening that its not the workshops fault if i was them

no use telling people just to get stuffed

Edited by arkon

Your all blaming the wrong guy............ you should be sueing durex or scotch for the sticky tape that failed to work...lol.

For $55 you can get a few good spanners and screwdriver or two and do the work yourself!! Plus the bonus is you get to keep the tools.

Your all blaming the wrong guy............ you should be sueing durex or scotch for the sticky tape that failed to work...lol.

For $55 you can get a few good spanners and screwdriver or two and do the work yourself!! Plus the bonus is you get to keep the tools.

good quote, wrong timing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...