Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Defiantly worth the effort. Both wheels lock well under power. Can boost it rite up in tight corners and also both compression lock up under braking and the car remains straight. Feels much, much better then the 2-way LSD in the Passage. When it does let go in a power slide the control is incredible compared to before. A recomended mod for anyone.

Defiantly worth the effort. Both wheels lock well under power. Can boost it rite up in tight corners and also both compression lock up under braking and the car remains straight. Feels much, much better then the 2-way LSD in the Passage. When it does let go in a power slide the control is incredible compared to before. A recomended mod for anyone.

Where are you located? Would you do the job for others as I don't have the appropriate tools and my car always one legs and pulls to one side. Obviously some moola will be given. Can post the internals so you don't have to take the entire diff.

Its a very time consuming process and time is something I don't have at the moment. Probably give me a month and PM me and it might be possible. Between this car and work there's nothing left. Sorry.:(

On another note I hit a realy tight corner yesterday going way too fast and got a chirp from the inside wheel so its defiantly working well.

Edited by Bauerpower
  • 2 weeks later...

saved our ass here in the UAE =) doing it now.

fitted em up, what a bitch to get the center back into the car lol. when i finaly got it in, the splines on the longer half shaft didnt line up in the final section. what a bitch, back out with the center it came, i did actualy line up the splines like you said, might i add for anyone else doing this. once you put ur shims in put both half shafts into the center completly in, then tighten the 2 philips heads, then leave the shafts in. put ur ring gear over the top and rattle that up with the half shafts still in the center. makes it alot easier and no room for error. the first time i was literaly .2mm off the splines being 100percent. and yet it wouldnt go in all together.... peace!

  • 3 weeks later...

Any chance of getting the pics working again really want to give this a go. So say about 3mm would be good for drifting or should i go more like 3.4?

Pretty much depends how screwed your diff is, it'll basically either be almost completely locked or it'll skip around corners and open up under power (worst of both worlds), or it'll be the same.

So just go the biggest you can get in there if you want to lock it, if you want it to be like an LSD just get an LSD.

My local Nissan had them in stock.. did they say they were ex-east? or ex-japan?

3 weeks sounds about right from Japland, everything I've gotten that was ex-east gets sent in an overnight bag so I have it within a couple of days (case in point, ordered a brake booster 1-way valve on Saturday that was ex-east and it arrived yesterday).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

just got around to putting mine in,both sides have a shim or 2 with 3 in total so i've got more then 3.6+ mm in there nearing 4 id say (will need to double check invoice to confirm).

so question is how long does it take to bed/ wear in as in getting some shuddering under hard cornering ?

Edited by Dan_J
  • 4 weeks later...

Hello!

I have heard that you can´t shim up a GTST Diff for it´s a viscodiff and not a lsd diff, the shims may take all the power from the diff and the viscodifferential will break? That a shimmed diff will not work in the long run? Is this bullshit or true?

Many people seem very happy with their but boring if it would break!?

sorry for my bad English, I am Swedish pirate.gifaction-smiley-069.gif

Victor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...