Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate, diff shimming is a really bodgy way to go about it. I thought I would give it a go at first and i threw in a few shims and it pretty much became a locker but it only lasted for a few weeks and was back to opening up again.

If you intend on taking your car to the skid pan its not going to cut it. It might work for straigh line or burnout action when both the rear wheels are loaded pretty evenly, but as soon as you try and drift it it will just spin the inside wheel...

Preload shims are not meant to be used to "tighten the LSD" all you are really doing is forcing the gears into each other and binding them up, but after a while they will eat away at each other until it opens up again.

If you are going to go to the effort of pulling your diff out and opening it up, your best bet would be to take the centre down to a local diff shop and get them to weld it up...I have had peg legers, shimmed lsds, 2-ways and lockers and after all of that I would now take a locker every time.

Mine was welded by Diff Technics at Kogarah and it has been able to take heaps of track days with constant 2nd and 3rd gear clutch dumps with over 300kw and its going strong...

On the street its really not that bad, bit of wheel skipping around tight corners but who cares, better than all the clunking and rattling of a mechanical LSD...

  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 8 months later...

just put my diff in on the weekend after i cut open the viscous unit and put new gel in it, and the results are great for such a cheap option, also chucked in one 1.4mm shim definately worth doing if you have the ability to do it

just put my diff in on the weekend after i cut open the viscous unit and put new gel in it, and the results are great for such a cheap option, also chucked in one 1.4mm shim definately worth doing if you have the ability to do it

Didn't realise you could put new gel in, how did you do it?

#@Rolls i cut it open on the lathe like one of the members did a few pages back and cleaned all the plates up and re packed it with the same gel he bought. only been in for a day so far will be interesting to see how it lasts, does do skids quite well though

Edited by minxy74

How do you make sure it is straight when you weld it back together?

According to the guy tat previously did it, by using a drive shaft.

As per photos on page 8 of this thread.

Make me keen to cut mine open.

that was all i used to do the job place the drive shaft in it and weld about 2cm at a time i got it to within 0.01mm, seems to work good been driving driving with it for three days now and wasted a pair of tires, works really well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...