Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!

i think u forgot to tell ppl that they need a diff housing spreader to get the centre back in as it simply wont go in without 1. the tolerances need to be perfect and there needs to be literaly no play in the diff which can only be done by spreading the housing to allow all the spacers to go back in. i learnt this the hard way by attempting this tutorial. now my centre wont go back in!!! gggrrrr very angry now my car is stuck and i cant move it till i get a diff place to put the centre back in. aahhhhhhhhhhhhh

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!

i think u forgot to tell ppl that they need a diff housing spreader to get the centre back in as it simply wont go in without 1. the tolerances need to be perfect and there needs to be literaly no play in the diff which can only be done by spreading the housing to allow all the spacers to go back in. i learnt this the hard way by attempting this tutorial. now my centre wont go back in!!! gggrrrr very angry now my car is stuck and i cant move it till i get a diff place to put the centre back in. aahhhhhhhhhhhhh

dont be soft mate just give it a bit of a tap and she'll be rite then once you can get the threads going on the cap bolts slowly do them up simultaniously.

  • 1 month later...
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!

i think u forgot to tell ppl that they need a diff housing spreader to get the centre back in as it simply wont go in without 1. the tolerances need to be perfect and there needs to be literaly no play in the diff which can only be done by spreading the housing to allow all the spacers to go back in. i learnt this the hard way by attempting this tutorial. now my centre wont go back in!!! gggrrrr very angry now my car is stuck and i cant move it till i get a diff place to put the centre back in. aahhhhhhhhhhhhh

its a hard job but i managed. who ever told you you need a diff housing spreader is full of shit. i didnt use/need one. like donut_kng said, dont be soft :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!

i think u forgot to tell ppl that they need a diff housing spreader to get the centre back in as it simply wont go in without 1. the tolerances need to be perfect and there needs to be literaly no play in the diff which can only be done by spreading the housing to allow all the spacers to go back in. i learnt this the hard way by attempting this tutorial. now my centre wont go back in!!! gggrrrr very angry now my car is stuck and i cant move it till i get a diff place to put the centre back in. aahhhhhhhhhhhhh

I had this problem (Mine went in but very hard)...

Pull it out and put it together again... mine wasn't lined up properly (didn't put the half shafts through before i put it together...)

Second time it just dropped in...

just thought id post my results..

first went a 1.49 + 0.8 on each side and was ridiculously tight (I did this before I knew this thread existed!)

then I went town to just the 1.49 on each side and it was nice but still a but clunky on the talkshaft off throttle,

today I wacked in a 1.20 on each side and it basically feels like a fresh stocker, which is a but soft cock for my liking.

My next go is either 1.3 or 1.4, I am undecied but leaning towards the 1.4

Does anyone know if having different sized shims on either side (i.e 1.49 on once side and say 1.20 on the other)) have any affect besides making a 'custom' total pre load thickness?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Heres something that hasnt come up yet here . oils . seeings as its not technically on topic HERES a linky to something i found interesting while researching to do this mod.

Ive only been looking at this recently and im not what i would call knowledgable on this topic but the viscous lsd is a clutch . The plates of the clutch never touch , the thin coating of oil between the plates which prevents them from touching either heats up or reacts somehow , to the friction , whilst cornering and increases that friction further.

It sounds to me that the "problem" that the guy in the linked thread had may just be what were all chasing here.

i had a 75w-140 in my diffs a while ago (redline) and cause it was too heavy it created a shudder in steering at low speed turning

maybee its a matter of going to around 2.8 mm total preload and then if its a bit too soft on the cockometer whack in some heavier oil .

Apparently

you want a 80W-90 LSD oil

as standard .

Heres a link to another tutorial . Its for a datsun site but it has an interesting comment down the bottom that i believe applies to us

It doesn't in any way tighten up the viscous unit as these are a sealed, non serviceable unit. This puts more tension onto your spider gears making them not want to turn so easily, and so it will cause your diff to wear more. Its a fine line between tightening it and ending up with a complete locker. It all depends on the condition of your diff of coarse but looking at others feed back anything over 1.5mm of extra shims results in a complete locker.

This changes things again and even more so makes me think that the (75w-140)oil may bring your diff back to life (if your after a streetable good lsd) rather than this method of shimming for an almost ON OFF switch for LOCKED or UNLOCKED diff .

What oil have ppl been trying ?

Edited by jester_oh
  • 3 weeks later...

In a normal clutch or cone type LSD like a borg warner, that would probably be the case..

however, the Nissan LSD pack is sealed. I cant see the merit in going to a heavy oil other than slightly changing the drag on the star gears..

My 2 standard diffs ran 2.1 and 2.4mm shimms all up. So I gave it 3.3mm shimms all up. The diff was all but locked 24/7! was somewhat unfreindly in carparks and servo's. I reduced it to 2.6mm and it one legs EVERYWHERE..

I will be trying 3mm next to see if I cant get a nice result.

ive just had mine out and i see what you mean about the clutch in there being sealed . i think your right the oil should have no noticeable impact .

just to add to the info available i found in my diff an

0.8 mm washer and a 1.5 mm washer for a total of 2.6mm . it drove very nicely , didnt single spin ever as far as i could tell . (feeler gauge is what i used to measure , there cheap)

i purchaced 2 1.1 mm washers with the plan to jam anything i could in there to lock it up tight for drift work . I could only fit one of them in there for a total of 3.4 mm as theres only so much you can fit in before the 2 screws that hold it together start to look too weak to pull the thing back together .

end result is a win for me , nicely locked up with no real movement . i think occasionally i can hear the spider gears moving half a tooth but it may be the tyres too . drift practice in 3 days woooo.

Edited by jester_oh
  • 3 weeks later...
dont be soft mate just give it a bit of a tap and she'll be rite then once you can get the threads going on the cap bolts slowly do them up simultaniously.

nah it just wouldnt go in how hard i tried, i ended up bending one of the big shims that adjust the backlash. i almost ripped my hair out!!! can someone put some pics up of how they got the centre back in??? step by step plz.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok i pulled my diff apart again on the weekend (AND GOT THE CENTRE BACK IN THIS TIME LOL) to change the shims coz it was way to tight (well locked all the time) and it was very annoying with 2 1.3mm + 1, 0.8mm shims (3.4mm total). so newayz put 2, 1.1mm shims in. very smooth to drive but back to its unpredictable ways. locks while accelerating hard in a straight line but wont whip nutz nemore and locks/unlocks while turning heavily with foot flat. i hav come to the conclusion. ITS EITHER LOCKED OR LIKE A STOCKER SO BUY A MECHANICAL LSD OR PUT UP WITH IT BEING LOCKED ALL THE TIME or not locked and unpredictable....... and thats my 2 cents worth lol.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...