Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im new to the whole skyline thing but not new to cars...

Are their any difference between the door panels or other panels like the boot lid or bonnet on the R32 GTR and the R32 GTS-T?

OR are they exactly the same, and the only difference is in the engine and the 4wd?

And does the RB20DET found in the GTS-t have the same Power potential as RB26DET found in the GTR?

I would love an RB26DET but I want a RWD car so that is why Im going for the GTS-t

Edited by Shadow01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164499-r32-gtr-vs-gts-t/
Share on other sites

have a quick look through the forum mate, will show you all the answers you'd be looking for. and the rb26 is far more better then the rb20. if you wanted RWD...you still could have gotten the GTR, and either bought a torque converter or if its a r32 GTR then just pull the fuse out...easy :D

CJ

I havent gotten any car yet, im just wondering what the differences were...

So if I had a R32 GTR I would be able to make it RWD just by taking a fuse out? can you explain this to me in detail, cause i wanna learn as much about the car as I can before I buy one.

Edited by Shadow01

Running a GTR in RWD defeats the prupose of owning a GTR IMHO...

Personally id go the GTS-T and with the money saved from not buying an all round "healthy" GTR do an engine conversion. Or to make it appear STOCK a 2.4L stroker or even just a 2.2L, a respray and some suspension work. That would make a fairly respectible street car.

have a quick look through the forum mate, will show you all the answers you'd be looking for. and the rb26 is far more better then the rb20. if you wanted RWD...you still could have gotten the GTR, and either bought a torque converter or if its a r32 GTR then just pull the fuse out...easy :D

CJ

That's how you get a heavy RWD car.

If you want RWD then a GTST will be the way you want to go if you want something well balanced. But yes, the front and rear guards, bonnet and grill as well as body kit/rear spoiler (obvious one) are all different. Using GTR guards will allow for lower offset/wider rims, which means more track, and more grip, and the alloy gtr bonnet is lighter. But all these parts aren't exactly cheap, and you'd only really need to put them on a GTST if you're pretty serious about taking it to the track.

So yes, a GTST with GTR guards and bonnet coupled with an RB26 will be a much better RWD car than a GTR in RDW only mode, and would probably be faster around the track in the dry than a regular GTR. But it's not cheap, you'd be looking at more than the average price of a GTR for a GTST and then this kind of conversion taking into account the rims, brakes and everything too. But IMO it would be worth it for someone who's serious about what they want.

If you've never owned a performance or turbo car before then the RB20DET GTST will be more than enough to have some fun in. GTRs have much more potential, but also heavier and more expensive to maintain/repair. GTRs have aluminium bonnet and front guards, wider rear guards, and different front bar.

Well owning a bmw I dont think the cost could be that bad!

I would rather have the GTR as it has the more power potential, And is there any common problems found in the R32 GTR. I have searched and been reading around the forum for a while now even though its 4 or 5th post

And does the RB20DET found in the GTS-t have the same Power potential as RB26DET found in the GTR?

I would love an RB26DET but I want a RWD car so that is why Im going for the GTS-t

no such thing as rb26det :P it a rb26dett <TWO turbo's not 1

and as for rb20det being able to get same power figures as rb26dett just think that the rb26dett is 1/5th larger in capacity and has 1more turbo i think you would be pushing sh** uphill with a pitchfork getting same power figures

it's not just the extra potential that the rb26, but they have a butt load more power in stock form. the rb20 is the least powerful of the skyline motors. get a gts-t then put a rb25det in it, or get a r33 gts-t. they are a touch heavier (about 50kg) but make up for it by having more power.

I would rather have the GTR as it has the more power potential, And is there any common problems found in the R32 GTR. I have searched and been reading around the forum for a while now even though its 4 or 5th post

i call furphies!

There is a wealth of info around this forum mate :P

Might pay you to search for a little while longer as some of the questions your asking are pretty basic/common knowledge type of questions.

The common RB26 problems are covered in loads of detail in Forced Induction and other areas.

The fuse/RWD is definately covered also :O

You might not get a lot of answers, as people have replied/answered in the past and often wont do it 5 or 6 times.

Good luck with your decision.

If you are looking for a rwd car but like the GTR just buy a GTR. They drive like a rwd car anyway. The ATTESA in R32s isnt as sharp as later kodels and often the 4wd only kicks in when you are already upside dopwn into a wall :P

R32 GTRs drive very much like rwd cars. Drive one and you will be stoked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...