Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i loved this thread very interesting love the determination and i learnt so much

anyway good luck godspeed !!

and i will be eagerly awaiting the final espisodes of project 24

sorry bit off topic but

do u by any chance have a 20det bottom end laying around :D ?? if so how much???

Great topic. I want to eventually go this way as well. I've got 2 questions for anyone who can help. Sorry if they seem a bit dumb.

Firstly, if you have the Apexi FC + controller for an RB20, is it going to be entirely useless with the new stroked engine?

Secondly, why do folks guess that Lewis Engines goes with a 2.25 stroker? I mean, for the same effort and similar money in parts (???) I can't work out why they wouldn't go with a 2.4. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod158.htm

Edited by Willie

Hi,

To answer your questions:

1) It will work just fine, you will need a retune because of the increase in size and Cam's etc

2) Not really sure why they wouldn't go all the way to 2438cc's If they are changing the Rods, slugs and crank it's something you would have to ask them.

Cheers

Cameron

Secondly, why do folks guess that Lewis Engines goes with a 2.25 stroker? I mean, for the same effort and similar money in parts (???) I can't work out why they wouldn't go with a 2.4. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod158.htm

id say no got to 2.4 because they offer a kick ass rb25 rebuild package that would cost basically the same

rb22 has different characteristics to it than rb24/25 - longer stroke than the rb20 but shorter than 24/25 and higher revving etc etc etc

call Darren he wont be shy of telling you all about it .. he just did my rb22 with few adjustments here and there from his usual package and im more than pleased with the result for my needs

btw - been following this awesome job on rb24 and commitment to doing something a little different ..well done

Firstly, if you have the Apexi FC + controller for an RB20, is it going to be entirely useless with the new stroked engine?

The reason it says it is for an rb20 is because it is for the rb20 loom and sensors, it doesn't matter if you have a 5L 6cyl engine in there, it will be be able to tune it providing all the sensors and connections are the same.

The reason it says it is for an rb20 is because it is for the rb20 loom and sensors, it doesn't matter if you have a 5L 6cyl engine in there, it will be be able to tune it providing all the sensors and connections are the same.

Thanks for the answers re. this and the RB2.2. Appreciate it guys.

Thought I might post a couple of happy snaps of the car that I just recovered of a damaged hard disk.

post-23119-1267260110_thumb.jpg post-23119-1267260128_thumb.jpg

Just Fired her up again, The HKS Tripple plate clutch at 600rpm sounds like a bucket of bolts floating around the bottom end.... :P

Edited by murrayis
how about i give you a half finished half circuit, half drag r33 gtst lol

Nooooooooooooo Deal :)

Anyway seeing that the last video audio was pretty crappy, I took this one not long ago for everyone. Still sounds like a rb20 I think :rofl:

Anyone know why so much oil smoke would be coming out the breather and form the back of the engine :S has me a little concerned.

Edited by murrayis
is it bedded in yet??

Nah I wouldn't of thought so it's only done 30 mins on the dyno getting the base run in tune done on the old ECU

I was hoping it was just blow by until the rings bed in.

Edited by murrayis
hi there totally awseome build im doing the same but rb22 im having problems with the pistons touching the oil squirters did you have such problems??

Hi,

No we didn't have these issues, I guess they will only be fouling the squirers by a couple of mm, you could get some spacers machined up to space the squirters out a little more? Another way around is to notch the pistons to give sufficiant clearance to them.

What pistons are you using?

Cheers

Cameron

Hi,

No we didn't have these issues, I guess they will only be fouling the squirers by a couple of mm, you could get some spacers machined up to space the squirters out a little more? Another way around is to notch the pistons to give sufficiant clearance to them.

What pistons are you using?

Cheers

Cameron

Im using the 4AGZE pistons :(

Everything was going ok until this i dont think i have enough room to space them down as im using the rb25 crank and rods not the 26 crank and rods

Im a bit gutted

any ideas ???

Hey,

Simple, Get a notch machined in the pistons to give clearance to the squirters. You will find they don't clear because the piston pin height is different and the 4agze pistons sit 2mm shy of the deck.

How did you get around this?

Cheers

Cameron

Hey,

Simple, Get a notch machined in the pistons to give clearance to the squirters. You will find they don't clear because the piston pin height is different and the 4agze pistons sit 2mm shy of the deck.

How did you get around this?

Cheers

Cameron

Im thinking of getting this notch machined but seems ill have to take out about a 15mm notch height wise :down:

Do you not think this will weakin the piston though.

Im thinkin ill have to go down this route iv come so far want to complete it then i can show the full build

I hear alot about the 4agze piston fitments but know where can i find someone that has done the build just alot of hearsay

:blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...