Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have a r32 approx 260rwkw using for hillclimb/sprints and bit of track im thinking of running r33gtr 324mm rotors with caliper spacers, A1RM pads on the front matched with dba4000 slotted rotors and penrite sin race brake fluid the question is what is a good combo for the rear? do i require slotted rotors along with another set of A1RM pads or would hpx's do the job?

cheers

Edited by freestyleMX
  • 2 weeks later...

I posted that in june 2009 - after I had given up on the A1RM's - don't buy them if you can't stand extreme noise! - and had swapped to the bendix heavy duty. A week or so ago they wore out, so I got almost 3 years of driving around town with them on which isn't any where near as good as the original ones.

Needed another pad in a hurry, so put the a1m in that where sitting in the shelf. Lasted in 3 days as I'd forgotten how bad they were for noise! I even tried the anti noise spray etc etc, before giving up on them yet again...

While I was down at repco buying something else, I mentioned I was looking at some new pads and the guy said they do repco branded ones for the skyline now, which are super quite with integrated shims. Given I was buying a few other things he did them for $70 (for the front two pairs) so I thought, what the heck, worth trying.

I've been pleasantly surprised - dead quite, reasonably good feel - but remember I'm not doing track (or anything like it!) I'm just driving around town... If you want a straight replacement when the standard ones where out, I don't think it is a bad choice...

Ian

ps PM me if you want a pair of not very used front A1RM's for a r34 gtt for a cheap price, as they are never going in again... :-)

I would strongly disagree about the pad noise. I have been driving with A1RMs on the front brakes with my s14 for about 10months. I drive at least 3 times per week, if not daily. I only experience braking squeal rarely when pulling up. Overall, brake squeal isn't as issue with this pad. I will conceed pad dust is a major factor but probably a lot more noticable on white rims. Cold performance is hard to tell since my tyres also have trouble in the cold, so cant really tell. though i suspect having both susceptible to the cold doesn't help.

Unfortunately HPXs don't last on the track, even on the rears. I thought I could get away with them but after two days at Phillip Isand and 3 months of semi-regular daily driving, they are already gone.

Will be switching back to the A1RMs when I have the time to change them. ( Still using A1RMs on the front. )

just tried a set of QFM A1RMs in my r32 gtr for a club day on the weekend, they weren't at all noisy and worked well but they are around 2/3 worn out after just one day? i would of liked to get a couple of days out of a set of pads or am i asking too much?

Pads start wearing that quickly when they get too hot. Use a higher heat rated pad and you will get a few track days out of one set.

Pads start wearing that quickly when they get too hot. Use a higher heat rated pad and you will get a few track days out of one set.

I have been using Hawk DTC-60 on front of my GTS-T and HT-10 on the rear for a while now. They wear slowly, never really fade and work from cold but they are designed as a track only pad.. really bad dust, noise etc. You can get them cheap from http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ so for the money i think they are hard to beat. Only thing is they are super super aggressive so take some getting used to. Personally I would suggest a pad thats easier to modulate (they will generally say something like "less initial bite") esp if you arent used to really high friction pads.

If you dont mind spending more $$ then some of the project mu or endless track only pads would be my first choice.

dont rule out the QFM comp pads, ie Comp 9 and comp 2 etc. A1RM's on a GTR at symmons is a fairly big ask, especially if its standard weight with standed size rotors etc.

Has anyone tried the new Ferodo DS Uno pads on track? I had them recommended by one of the larger race brake suppliers in the country, and apparently everyone 'raves' about them.

Has anyone used them and are they worth raving about? Any feedback on durability, disc life, modulation, etc.?

Alternative is Pagid RS14 / RS29 for similar price.

Thanks

Jack

Edited by 4Pot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...