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  • 1 month later...

Mine use to do the same thing. Until I replaced it. Common fault. About USD$200 for a new motor. Easy to install though, dont have to take the window regulator out, it just bolts to the exterior of it between your door skin and door frame. 5 minute job.

JK

I'm a bit stuck! at the last bit!

I've taken the door shell everything out incl glass and remove the 3 bolts that holds down the lock actuator...

found out that it's also attached to a catch behind the door handle and I can't remove this. is this require removal of door handle? anyone done this before please let me know...

I found one * bolt behind the door handle but after I remove it - the door handle still won't budge/pop off from its shell.

EUREKA!

Don't worry about it...

After thorough investigation managed to find the other hidden bolt !

I've swapped my lock actuator and it works great! Took me about 4-5 hours to get it all done.

I will write up a DIY as I've taken lots and lots of photos...

STAY TUNED!

My DIY on window regulator/lock actuator removal is done!

See here!

Door Lock Actuator Removal - DIY

NOTE: DO NOT TRY THIS if you're not game enough with tools, potentially scratched skin, or if you are short tempered.

I am not responsible for any direct/indirect damage or injury done to your car or any persons from following this DIY guide.

  • 9 months later...

Hey guys!

I've given this a search here and only found one post about it, that no one answered.

For the last month or so my clutch has been making lots of noises, like an old creeking door!

Also when pressing down on the pedal as a result of the sounds you can feel that it is vibrating, almost feels like it is sliping.

I had it at Nissan while it was being serviced recently and asked them to assess it, they told me nothing was wrong with it, wasn't worn out of anything, and they couldn't replicate the noise. Typical of them! and strange they couldn't replicate the noise it as it does it ALL the time and is very loud!

Anyway, if any of you have had this issue and know what it may be please let me know.

Cheers!

Hey guys!

I've given this a search here and only found one post about it, that no one answered.

For the last month or so my clutch has been making lots of noises, like an old creeking door!

Also when pressing down on the pedal as a result of the sounds you can feel that it is vibrating, almost feels like it is sliping.

I had it at Nissan while it was being serviced recently and asked them to assess it, they told me nothing was wrong with it, wasn't worn out of anything, and they couldn't replicate the noise. Typical of them! and strange they couldn't replicate the noise it as it does it ALL the time and is very loud!

Anyway, if any of you have had this issue and know what it may be please let me know.

Cheers!

I had this, i just flushed the brake fluid with penrite sin 600 and adjusted the clutch bolt and its all good :) I even made a video showing the noise, cant remember if i posted on this site or G35...

  • 4 years later...
  • 7 years later...
  • 2 months later...
On 29/07/2007 at 11:17 AM, R34 said:

You will need to replace your window electric motor available from Nissan @ approx $350

I've had to replace both now

They also seem to have issues with clicking rear wheels

Clicking wheels.  

Purchased my 370 a couple months back front right wheel was clicking like a b**ch under load ie left hand corners. Thought it was a bearing problem turned out to be minute amounts of movement between wheel and hub. Solution - wire brush clean both surfaces and reassemble with a small amount of grease. Problem solvered.

*Note to other newbies like me. Always use correct wheel nut socket (6 sided) as opposed to 12 point deep socket. Wheel nut is actually two piece with a chrome plated brass sheath which will spin on the nut if incorrect socket used. Absolute nightmare to remedy involving much tapping, flattening, coaxing hammering and swearing. 

 

On 11/13/2022 at 2:58 PM, nicko370 said:

Clicking wheels.  

Purchased my 370 a couple months back front right wheel was clicking like a b**ch under load ie left hand corners. Thought it was a bearing problem turned out to be minute amounts of movement between wheel and hub. Solution - wire brush clean both surfaces and reassemble with a small amount of grease. Problem solvered.

*Note to other newbies like me. Always use correct wheel nut socket (6 sided) as opposed to 12 point deep socket. Wheel nut is actually two piece with a chrome plated brass sheath which will spin on the nut if incorrect socket used. Absolute nightmare to remedy involving much tapping, flattening, coaxing hammering and swearing. 

 

Can you elaborate on that? Any photos?

Stock wheels or others? It makes no sense.

This sounds like the old 'rear click' that the 350Z/V35 had, due to slight bit of movement between the rear hub and drive shaft under acceleration or braking.

https://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/uploads/dold/1207422654_ClickClack.pdf

Never thought it could be an issue between the wheel and hub though, if the wheel nuts are properly torqued.

 

Edited by sonicii
On 13/11/2022 at 4:11 PM, Ben C34 said:

Can you elaborate on that? Any photos?

Stock wheels or others? It makes no sense.

Yeah who knew?  Mot me. But the mechanic at Tokyo Prestige was straight onto it. Whipped the wheel off, smeared a small amount of grease on the mounting surface, reassembled with wheel nuts done nice and tight, no more clicking.  He suggested removing all four wheels and wire brushing the whole lot for good measure just to ensure there's no crap in there preventing a true mating surface.  Wheels are stock. The noise was very noticeable.. cornering at speed, sounded like a stone or tek screw caught in the tyre. Low speed carpark manoeuvres it was a metallic creaking or clicking sound. 

Interestingly I am now noticing the rear drivers wheel is also doing it. I haven't tried the clean and grease remedy yet will be interesting to see. Haven't had a chance to read up on it yet.. lots to learn on here. 

Props to the guys at Tokyo though.. service with a smile and no charge for the 10 minutes he spent mucking around with my car.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Strangely, when I had to swap out a flat tyre out driving a couple years ago, my wheel brace needed to be hammered onto the wheel nuts in order to get a grip of them. Turns out the nuts were all slightly larger in size, which explains why I managed to destroy one of them later when torquing it up with a 12-point Kinchrome deep socket and breaker bar I bought to replace the stock wheel brace.

I never noticed this at home with my impact socket and rattle gun, other than me thinking that perhaps the socket itself was a bit on the tight side. I've since replaced that fancy deep socket with a regular hex socket to avoid such situations out on the road. The things we learn!!

A bit of nickel anti-seize compound that I've used every time I do any refit of any wheel has always kept me out of trouble with both my vehicles, though after reading this, I didn't realise I'd also be avoiding any odd clicking on the V36!

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