Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a few bolt on mods to my R33 and its gettting very bad Fuel economy,

Im only getting 280km per tank on 98 octane, and to top it off its running like crap cos its not tuned for the new setup.

Question I have is how far can I expect to go after I get the new 2835 fitted and tuned at around 260rwkw or so.

Highway and around town figures if ya now what you get???? Or litres per 100 would be good.

Mine is getting 14L/100kms on flat road at 110kmph............

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177634-how-far-can-you-go/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's terrible fuel economy! I get about 400ks to a tank these days, but most people will say it all depends on how heavy your foot is!! Driving over to Perth from Qld I got about 580ks to my best tank, but my lowest has been just over 300. (Had 2 cruises in 2 nights hehe)

im lucky to see 300kms to a tank....!

highway i reckon i could just squeeze 400 out of a tank but i dont do that much highway... and i LOVE boost!

Try Resetting your ECU by disconnecting it and leaving it overnight... the ECU will self learn and possibly pick up your mods a touch better.... hence better economy.....

im lucky to see 300kms to a tank....!

highway i reckon i could just squeeze 400 out of a tank but i dont do that much highway... and i LOVE boost!

Try Resetting your ECU by disconnecting it and leaving it overnight... the ECU will self learn and possibly pick up your mods a touch better.... hence better economy.....

easier and quicker way is to take of ur negative terminal on the battery then hold down the brake peddle for about 1min (this just drains all remaining power out of the system) then put the negitive terminal back on, turn the car on and let it run for about 2mins on idle (this is auto adjust it as far as it can with stock limitations). This isnt gonna solve ur problem but it should help

Quigga

it really annoys me when people say "i got xxxkms to a tank". how many litres did you use? i can get an extra 50kms out of a tank by driving round for ages with the fuel light on. it doesn't mean i got any better fuel economy.

turbo dave: 14L/100km is pretty bad for highway driving. i got 10L/100km out of mine, but it was stock turbo. but then i would get 17L/100km round town.

have you tried changing your o2 sensor to see if that helps?

Im looking forward to fitting my 2835 to my RB20!

Highway driving is gonna be awesome! Well thats how im imagining it..... Since its gonna be a alot laggier than stock... So hopefully it will sit off boost @ 110 and be off boost in the city driving.

But thats an RB20 and yours is a 25.... Id be saying you could easily achieve more from that turbo with a RB25.... Im aiming for 260 with my RB20

I used to average 300km in my 32 IF i was lucky... Oddly enough the faster i went the less it would use..... Eg. 290km trip @ 110 had to refuel, same trip back @ 160km/h (1am in the morning) most of the way i still had almost 1/4 tank left

Edited by MADGT4

It really really depends on how heavy your foot is.

I was born with a lead right foot, so my car hardly ever sees over 300 to about 45 L.

With the bigger turbo, driving around town, it should be harder to get on boost, so if you're trying to drive economically, it should use less petrol. The stock turbo goes on boost at the lightest touch of throttle, or up the slightest hill.

But on the other hand, the bigger turbo, plus fuel requirements means that when you give it some, it'll use more fuel, because it makes more power.

So in essence.... It depends on how you drive it

I get 10L/100 always. Aftermarket map sensor based ecu.

Runs less on the F3 everyday to work.. but more round town... always fill up around the same time.. always 40-45 litres

Although might change when I pick it up this week... was on 263rwkw... is now on 300+rwkw... :)

*edit* I also tend to have a heavy foot.. occasionally.... maybe... :thumbsup:

it really annoys me when people say "i got xxxkms to a tank". how many litres did you use? i can get an extra 50kms out of a tank by driving round for ages with the fuel light on. it doesn't mean i got any better fuel economy.

well, i once drove my old manual 1.3L 16V Charade for 180km around the sydney metro area after the fuel guage touched the 'E' mark. it sputtered as i was driving towards a servo, i pulled in, and it stopped just as i pulled up next to a bowser, and wouldn't start again until i got fuel :thumbsup:

don't know exactly what economy that meant for the full tank, but it was in the 7L/100km zone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...