Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got development $$. I do the reworks on them and people baulk at that.

ALL of it is processor based and the code needs to be pulled out, reworked and put back in place. a russian company was mucking around with the translation side of things but no maps.

Hard to say. I was driving in a storm and lots of debris on the road and driving rain but I thought I heard a noise that may have been it. Considering it is just in front of the driver and the plastic fractures I would expect to hear/feel something. Good thing I checked my gauges soon after driving along motorway and picked it up. I got off and parked up pronto else it would have been much worse.

Pics yet Jules?

I'm more curious about the diameter of the sub and how big the enclosure is that it sits in.

Oh...ok I will go down stairs now and take some pics with the phone and measure for you....

Well my phone battery is dead, but it is 360mm across and 140mm deep

Edited by Paramour
SO I get to 104 k and the top radiator hose connector breaks. Quite common apparently and can's be repaired. Now I have a 10 day wait for part ex Japan $140nzd. :D

now I'm told I must wait until the 17th at least (back order) and no loan car in sight

This car is proving to be a problem ;) unlike the old one

now I'm told I must wait until the 17th at least (back order) and no loan car in sight

This car is proving to be a problem :ermm: unlike the old one

Are you going through Nissan? Maybe I could make a suggestion if Nissan in NZ is slow....order it through an Australian Nissan dealer(e.g Hornsby Nissan)...pay for it via credit card and see how long it takes them to get the parts delivered to you directly....it should not take 2 weeks......I just ordered a powerduct new headrests and spark plugs and they only took 4 days door to door.

or maybe just look at getting a new one made.

Edited by Jetwreck
Perhaps one of you Aussies could find out what the locals say but Nissan my side say it's Japan that can't supply sooner.

Give me the part number...I will have a go for you...worst case scenario I get it shipped to me then over to you.

Even if we just find out timelines for future reference.....saves you getting stuffed around with no car for weeks.....might be an extra courier cost though :)

Just spoke to Hornsby Nissan. They said max of 10 day's but most of them are 5 day's or under. e.g. as I mentioned my stuff was about 4 days.

P.S. They also said the parts are readily available in Japan so shipment would be straight away.

Are you going through Nissan? Maybe I could make a suggestion if Nissan in NZ is slow....order it through an Australian Nissan dealer(e.g Hornsby Nissan)...pay for it via credit card and see how long it takes them to get the parts delivered to you directly....it should not take 2 weeks......I just ordered a powerduct new headrests and spark plugs and they only took 4 days door to door.

or maybe just look at getting a new one made.

Out of curiosity, what is the part number for the spark plugs?

I have been given 3 different numbers for m35 spark plugs from Nissan dealers (and for some reason, FAST doesn't like me at the moment).

Out of curiosity, what is the part number for the spark plugs?

I have been given 3 different numbers for m35 spark plugs from Nissan dealers (and for some reason, FAST doesn't like me at the moment).

Don't know wether this is the number or not...but it's the # on my receipt from Nissan. Pretty sure they are NGK as well.

NI22401-5M016.....they are also $24.15 each.....add's up when you have 6 of them :banana:

Edited by Jetwreck
Don't know wether this is the number or not...but it's the # on my receipt from Nissan. Pretty sure they are NGK as well.

NI22401-5M016.....they are also $24.15 each.....add's up when you have 6 of them :devil:

I have just spoken to Tony @ Northshore. He gave me the part number NI22401-AQ816 and made it clear that only this plug should be used.

Also spoke to NGK (part # LFR6AP-9), "It is not on our system, it is not a plug we bring into the country". Talk about helpful customer service... :starwars:

Nissan ferntree gully have ordered them 10-12 days... $23.20ea... yep, it adds up but it least they should last 100,000kms.

  • 2 weeks later...

got it back finally but I'd be looking at getting a metal one fabricated if I knew what I was in for - apparently this can be done in 3 days or less and only a hundy or so more

getting mixed opinions on the life of these plastic top rads too mine lasted just 6 years and 100,000 km's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...