Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have been looking at M35 info. Is there a twin turbo model available and is it able to be complied?

Nope. The only turbo model was from 2001-2004 and is the VQ25det.

Feel free to get one and add another turbo if you wish though :rolleyes:

Nope. The only turbo model was from 2001-2004 and is the VQ25det.

Feel free to get one and add another turbo if you wish though :rolleyes:

There is one advertised in carsales in Qld. A dealer, says "Twin Turbo". Check it out.

There is one advertised in carsales in Qld. A dealer, says "Twin Turbo". Check it out.

Sorry Hugh.

Just a standard RS with the factory Aero kit and a Dolphin grill.

Considering all the piping is stock, there is no way he could be running an additional turbo in there.

Edited by iamhe77
There is one advertised in carsales in Qld. A dealer, says "Twin Turbo". Check it out.

maybe you should make an offer and then ask where the 2nd turbo is? Make them install it.... it would really go then

Please excuse me if this has been posted elsewhere but I couldn't see it.

I was talking with Northshore Prestige yesterday and they said they've now got approval for compliance of the VQ35DE engine (and that they were the first and only at the moment). Evidently there's a 2006 Stagea that should be available in a couple of weeks (it's been to the Ford factory in Geelong for testing) and quite a few more on the way.

He seemed to think it'd be priced at about $28-$29K.

Please excuse me if this has been posted elsewhere but I couldn't see it.

I was talking with Northshore Prestige yesterday and they said they've now got approval for compliance of the VQ35DE engine (and that they were the first and only at the moment). Evidently there's a 2006 Stagea that should be available in a couple of weeks (it's been to the Ford factory in Geelong for testing) and quite a few more on the way.

He seemed to think it'd be priced at about $28-$29K.

No it has not been posted and you are correct.

Keep an eye on their web page next week.

yes it is, it doesnt appear to be installed on any other nissan engine that we can tell...........

$28-29k?? thats not unreasonable! thats very tempting to upgrade if i could get enough of a trade in for my car. which i probably wouldnt :action-smiley-069:

$28-29k?? thats not unreasonable! thats very tempting to upgrade if i could get enough of a trade in for my car. which i probably wouldnt :)

The import duty drops from 10% to 5% in 2010 that might equate to about a $1-$2K saving on a $30K+ car. So it'd be worth holding back until that saving takes effect. Though this may mean your car is worth less as well...

Its all swings and roundabouts and the value of the yen/$A/$US

and the fact that japan know what cars go where and adjust the price according ling. japanese economy also has a bit of bearing on it.

I've read quite a few posts about the limited life of the stock turbo. I was just wondering if this is specific to the M35 or not?

The turbo itself is specific to the M35, the turbo problems are not. I believe the issues are exactly the same as with earlier model stageas, however the M35 runs more boost as standard, particularly the ARX (going by the posts above or on prev page), making a turbo failure far more likely on the M35 than previous stageas.

The turbo uses a ceramic turbine which tends to come unstuck from the shaft or shatter when it is exposed to a certain amount of heat for a certain amount of time. If you search all over these forums (skyline R33 & R34 have same issue) you'll find that its generally agreed that 14psi is pretty much the limit for these turbos. more pressure means more heat and if you run 14 or higher psi for any length of time, sooner or later the turbo will break. Why Nissan released the car from the factory running such high boost on these turbos will probably remain a mystery. It seems they were aware of it because the turbo is apparently supposed to be replaced at 100,000km.

My RS is stock and runs around 11-12psi which by rights should be fine (my turbo is still going very well at 108,000km) but the bottom line is that if you buy an M35, bear in mind that the turbo may need replacing at some point. It should cost under $2K to replace it with something similar to the factory one, and from there it will likely never need replacing again.

The turbo itself is specific to the M35, the turbo problems are not. I believe the issues are exactly the same as with earlier model stageas, however the M35 runs more boost as standard, particularly the ARX (going by the posts above or on prev page), making a turbo failure far more likely on the M35 than previous stageas.

The turbo uses a ceramic turbine which tends to come unstuck from the shaft or shatter when it is exposed to a certain amount of heat for a certain amount of time. If you search all over these forums (skyline R33 & R34 have same issue) you'll find that its generally agreed that 14psi is pretty much the limit for these turbos. more pressure means more heat and if you run 14 or higher psi for any length of time, sooner or later the turbo will break. Why Nissan released the car from the factory running such high boost on these turbos will probably remain a mystery. It seems they were aware of it because the turbo is apparently supposed to be replaced at 100,000km.

My RS is stock and runs around 11-12psi which by rights should be fine (my turbo is still going very well at 108,000km) but the bottom line is that if you buy an M35, bear in mind that the turbo may need replacing at some point. It should cost under $2K to replace it with something similar to the factory one, and from there it will likely never need replacing again.

Thanks for the info.

So if I end up with a Series I or II then the turbo may still be an issue (as per any any other parts of the car) but it is less likely as the boost has been running lower over it's life time (provided the owner hasn't increased it).

Thanks for the info.

So if I end up with a Series I or II then the turbo may still be an issue (as per any any other parts of the car) but it is less likely as the boost has been running lower over it's life time (provided the owner hasn't increased it).

I'm sorry to say this but, I would think that a fair proportion of them out there have had the boost raised, even if the owner denies it! :D

I an really trying to like the M35, but that arse end is so ugly. If someone was to make adecent rear lights kit, like was done for Commonwhores, I may be tempted. Front and side, AOK, but...........

I have bBenny,s pic as my desktop.

Nissan made the arse end like that just to keep the cops off my back. Works a treat, even with a 3 inch straight through exhaust.

Just gotta get some Volvo badges for the back and I will be in the clear.

You could always paint the top part of the lights to match the car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...