Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm amazed at the positive feedback everyone has about them; my experience was so shockingly different, I simply will not use anything they make.

Motul & Silkolene (Fuchs) are the only oils that go anywhere near my engines.

Edited by Daleo

I'm amazed at the positive feedback everyone has about them; my experience was so shockingly different, I simply will not use anything they make.

Motul & Silkolene (Fuchs) are the only oils that go anywhere near my engines.

well what they make anymore.

the sougi is good. but obviously no more of that.. i got 2 bottles left lol

I asked the guys at Autobarn if they had heard of Sougi, they hadn't even though they are one of the largest GW stockists for automotive. They told me the rep had said nothing about it and just stocked the shelf with the cheap crap. They rang Repco and Bursons for me to chase some up, they had never heard of it/stocked it either.

Great marketing GW. :thumbsup: I wonder why it never took off? hahahahahahahha

no i meant as in maybe 1kw less.. as its quality isnt up there with sougi..

Please don't say shit like that mate, it's embarrassing.

You simply can't judge an oil quality by power figures.

Sure, you can get a decent power loss by using an oil that is much too thick (see Sin, Penrite), but c'mon man, saying a 1kw drop in power could be expected because an oil is of near quality to another oil is like saying that my hands are warmer today because I wore my Rivers shoes instead of my sneakers.

Yeah, I agree Scotty.

After all the raving people did about Sougi, they're literally on my doorstep so that's why I went there. This was ages ago too, long before it was discontinued.

I can't imagine why you would recommend a bargain basement oil (of the wrong weight) to a customer who is looking for a high performance product.

Sometimes sales people will recommend products because they have a quota to make, or there's a deal if the sales person sells 10 of these they get one free.

I like Penrite products, because they always answer my technical questions with fact and engineered experiments. I like to try and support local product and Penrite have been Australian owned since 1926!

I have ran most of my motors using Penrite and the condition they are in (wear on bores etc. cam wear, big end bearing wear etc.) excellent condition.

Give MotoFluid in Bayswater VIC a call. They are a Penrite stockist and provide discount for bulk purchase (20L drum anyone?)

PLUS they are HEAVILY involved in motorsport including support club racing/sprints etc. One of the tech guys there (Ken) has had numerous Datsun 1600's and other non important cars :whistling:, and has a fair bit of experience with oils. Good bloke and has a vast amount of experience/knowledge with a no bullshit approach.

Please don't say shit like that mate, it's embarrassing.

You simply can't judge an oil quality by power figures.

Sure, you can get a decent power loss by using an oil that is much too thick (see Sin, Penrite), but c'mon man, saying a 1kw drop in power could be expected because an oil is of near quality to another oil is like saying that my hands are warmer today because I wore my Rivers shoes instead of my sneakers.

I repeat: THIS IS WHAT THE "ENGINEERS" AT GW TOLD ME.

and also it is a fact that your body tempreture can rise or drop dependant on the shoes you wear. heat comes in through your feet and out your head. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by AaronNM35

Sorry mate, missed your reference to the "engineer".... especially going from when you typed;

no i meant as in maybe 1kw less.. as its quality isnt up there with sougi..

Fair enough though, can't believe how hard GW fail sometimes.

Dale, agree on Fuchs, I used the 5w40 Titan Super Syn a while ago and the car felt "more together" than when using Mobil 1.

It is a Group IV oil I believe and reasonably priced.

Edited by iamhe77

I havent used the Castrol, but someone on here or m35stagea.info called it cheap shit.

Im using Valvoline fully synthetic at the moment, seems fine, but when the free stash runs out Ill probably switch to Motul or Royal Purple, whatevers easier to get.

My local Repco have Motul 300v but theres bugger all discount and Im pretty sure I have to buy 4+1 litres...

I used castrol 5-30 in my SR when it was running E85 making 275rwkw on 17psi and found it fine on the track. Only ever ran it during winter with a nsimo thermostat keeping the engine on a max of 72deg. Currently only use Shell helix 10w-40 semi syn in it with no dramas at all. Not sure how it would go during summer running at normal temps, it's also near on the factory grade too.

The CTS drift 180sx running over 350rwkw was running castrol 10w-60 so it can't be all bad.

My m35 will be delivered to my mates compliance shop tomorrow (earlier than I expected) for compliance so will go shopping this weekend for parts to do a service.

Edited by slippylotion

Eeek. I'll rather use castrol then valvoline!

Why? I checked with them and its as high a grade as the Castrol etc.

The stuff Im using is left over from a supply Valvoline gave dad for his Jackaroo when he was competing in the Safari rallies. Seemed alright for that, and it was exposed to all kinds of dirt and crap. Engine is still fine.

Eeek. I'll rather use castrol then valvoline!

Actually the Valvoline Syn Power 5w40 is a pretty good oil.

Not the best synthetic you can get, but you could do a lot worse.

The only Castrol that you'd touch is the German Castrol (labelled "Syntech 0w30"), but I think that as as scarce as Sougi S6000 these days.

lol, marketing.

The Nulon "fully synthetic" oils are a mineral base. Not a good oil at all. :nuke::nuke::nuke:

Most oils which say "Fully Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. I think only certain oils (such as motuls 300V for example) state they are 100% synthetic or 100% ester based.

Most oils which say "Fully Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. I think only certain oils (such as motuls 300V for example) state they are 100% synthetic or 100% ester based.

Yes, I think that the court ruling was that if the oil is a minimum of 70% synthetic, it could be marketed as "fully synthetic".

There are more than Motul though... Redline and Amsoil are two that I can think of immediately that are 100% synthetic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...