Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't get it. So the engine is the same as pre 2004 nm35s but it doesn't pass?

Can't they chuck in another huge cat in the exhaust to fix it?

It'd be a bit more complicated than that. Taking a guess, when a RAWS did the evidence report into the NM35, they have to do the crash testing/emissions testing. Maybe the NM35 doesn't pass whatever emissions regs were introduced in 2004. Thus no cars are allowed to be complied in that year.

Just a punt.

It'd be a bit more complicated than that. Taking a guess, when a RAWS did the evidence report into the NM35, they have to do the crash testing/emissions testing. Maybe the NM35 doesn't pass whatever emissions regs were introduced in 2004. Thus no cars are allowed to be complied in that year.

Just a punt.

you're on the money

Northshore is the one to call... although they have also offered to do compliance for J-Spec and possibly Prestige.

Thats correct, at the time I was importing my Pm35, Northshore was only going to comply 4 PM35's/year, for J-specs customers, myself being the 1st! (Thanks to Ben @ Northshore and Ben @ J-Spec for all their help). J-spec has been trying to get Northshore to comply cars for him for some time, and Northshore, understandably wants to protect his investment by limiting the number of plates he fits to cars which arent imported by him. Who knows what will happen in the future!

Thats correct, at the time I was importing my Pm35, Northshore was only going to comply 4 PM35's/year, for J-specs customers, myself being the 1st! (Thanks to Ben @ Northshore and Ben @ J-Spec for all their help). J-spec has been trying to get Northshore to comply cars for him for some time, and Northshore, understandably wants to protect his investment by limiting the number of plates he fits to cars which arent imported by him. Who knows what will happen in the future!

Maybe we'll see a PM35 at a cruise sometime soon then? :whistling:

What's the go with immobilizers on the NM35's? My insurance company stated to me that it must be fitted with an Australian standard immobilizer. My AR-X comes with an alarm, I assume it also has an immobilizer. Did most of you still install a separate immobilizer? I wouldn't be all that chuffed if my car was stolen only for insurance to claim I didn't have an "Australian standard Immobilizer.."

Any suggestions on the cheapest and most suitable turbo timer? are they absolutely necessary for this car?

What's the go with immobilizers on the NM35's? My insurance company stated to me that it must be fitted with an Australian standard immobilizer. My AR-X comes with an alarm, I assume it also has an immobilizer. Did most of you still install a separate immobilizer? I wouldn't be all that chuffed if my car was stolen only for insurance to claim I didn't have an "Australian standard Immobilizer.."

Any suggestions on the cheapest and most suitable turbo timer? are they absolutely necessary for this car?

Mine didn't come with an Immobiliser. I had a Cyclops one fitted...

Viper's aren't Australian Standards as far as I know. Go Auto Watch, Mongoose or Cyclops, and get it installed by someone who knows what they're doing.

You can also 'upgrade' the alarm to Australian standards if you want, might be the best option. I removed the factory alarm because it was playing up.

Viper's aren't Australian Standards as far as I know. Go Auto Watch, Mongoose or Cyclops, and get it installed by someone who knows what they're doing.

You can also 'upgrade' the alarm to Australian standards if you want, might be the best option. I removed the factory alarm because it was playing up.

I'm pretty sure they are now....Viper I meant.

Turbo timers are a wank for modern cars with water cooled turbine housings.

I fitted a Viper and removed the factory gear.

I like turbo timers on modern cars (with water cooled turbo's) so when you track them, you can let it slowly cool down which allows the whole thing to cool down uniformly! :devil:

I think Viper have a unit which is, but the higher end stuff with the paging remotes, remote start, turbo timer, etc isn't.

AFAIK there's no Australian standard alarm with remote start and turbo timer.

Well i'm not tracking this, so i'll forgo the turbo timer which is fine by me. I'm nearly ready to buy a dump Scotty. Going to take it to a local exhaust shop for fitting, They charge $55 an hour, so i'm probably looking at about $200 yeh? 3-4 hours work?

I might call up my insurer for a list of Australian Standard immobilisers.

I don't have one in the stag, as I do the same thing. usually the 1-2 minute cool down drive is enough.

I use a turbo timer in the 1600. It's got a volt meter built in and can display speed in digital (handy for when the speedo tops out at 200km/h)! It also helps to reduce oil temp (even after the 1-2 minute cool down lap).

Most race guys usually let their car idle for a good 1-2 minutes even after they stop just to stabilize temperatures. $hit gets pretty hot, and 1-2 minutes warm down lap sometimes doesn't cut it.

I'm not really worried about the water cooled turbo. I'm more concerned about the aftermarket stainless dump pipe and exhaust system I have fitted, and other associated engine components requiring slow temperature differential.

Anyway, you guys do what you want on your cars, and I'll play on the safe side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...