Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I recently became a victim of the dreaded cracked DBA 4000 rotor club. Wasn’t overly impressed as they were near new. But with the rotors on the bench and inspecting the rotors with DBA it appears as though there could be a fault with the caliper and the use of the rotor…combined with the fact they were used for a hard stop from over 200km/h when cold at an airport run.

So looking at the rotor the outside face (the side that cracked) has obviously run hotter then the inside face. This is evident by the blue hue in the rotor face as well as the paint markings on the outside of the rotor where two of the three thermal paint stripes have been completely burnt off. All whilst the inside face is only on the middle temp paint with all three stripes still being visible and a shiny silver as you would expect.

So, differential expansion as a result of a big temperature gradient hasn’t helped these rotors. Combined with the big hit of heat when cold. The rotors are off for some more testing and inspection. Will post up the feedback when I get it.

But some things we all may want to check. Make sure your pistons are not dragging the pads on the rotor. This is a possibility in my application even though the calipers have been rebuilt. Perhaps where was a bit if run out (doubt it) or the design of thw wheel limits airflow to the outer face (doubt it) Most likely pistons rubbing the pad on the rotor a little, or when I jump on the brakes the outer pad works a lot harder then the inner pistons.

Now finally, especially since its been a buzz topic lately. Be careful if you are going to be running brake ducts. I trialled some ages ago but took them off because I was not happy with them, and decided I would wait and do it properly when i get my new Brembos on. But if you are running DIY ducting ensure that the ducting is directed the centre of the rotor and the air then travels up through the vanes of the rotor. Simply ducting it towards the inner edge could lead to one side of the rotor (inner) running cooler then the outer face. This gives rise to differential expansion which is a known problem for stressing steel components. The main reason I removed my ducts was that I wasn’t satisfied that in the wet they woudlnt be guiding water/mist onto the inner edge causing massive temperature differentials and thermal shock to the rotor. I had not really considered that air itself could have resulted in a 200degC temperature differential across the rotor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186532-are-you-cracking-dba-rotors/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeh at the QR sprints very few seem to warm their brakes up at the start of the first lap, gives the transmission a chance to warm up a bit too if you take it easy for the first half lap or so.

I would be curious to see whther anyone has had their DBA4000 rotor crack from anywhere other than the small slots on the outside of the rotor.

Thats exactly what i told the guy when speaking to him . They are introducing a point of failure by running the slot to the outer edge. I dont see Alcon/AP/Brembp/Performance Friction etc etc doing that sort of slot arrangment on their street or competition rotors. My old set of DBA 4000 which lasted an eternity had the old slot design as well, (ie no little slot on outer edge)

Here are a couple I prepared earlier.

I was not running any ducting & the stone guards were in place. Rotors cracked on the outside.

Note the rear failed completely & if you have a look at the front you can see the start of a crack propogating from the small slot.

I don't think you need look any further than those slots to see what kills these rotors. Note that there was minimal wear on all of them, pads were RB74's & they got a bit warm as you can tell by the surface of the rotor.

I have another dead one at home (a front) that is cracked through from the return slot.....If you have the ear of anyone at DBA tell them to bin the return slots.

post-5134-1190698627_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1190698849_thumb.jpg

I will dig up my crack....far, far , far worse then those. And it took no time at all to propogate into the hub.

Makes me wonder why DBA are only doing a limited run of these, curved vane with Alcon style slots.

dba_48_curved_rotors_2.jpg

dba_48_curved_rotors.jpg

UAS have some for sale at the moment. If i didnt have the Brembos then i would grab some :thumbsup:

yes they are shit. there is to much chrome in the iron. we crack them every 2 race meeting. (v8 utes) they seriously are shit. end of story. they lasted longer with no ducting. no point blowing air on the inside when theres no flow on the outside. this creates unevan expansion and pop. they crack at the slots. usualy all of them. bloody rules...

Environment: DBA4000s, DS2500s, MBF600, backing plates, UAS 324mm kit

Roy, i have the same problem with cooking the outside face of the rotor only. I also assumed it was stuck/dragging pistons and rebuilt the front calipers last weekend. I hope that wasn't a waste of time! Anyway, i'm going to Wakefield on the 8th for some 'testing'.

I also noticed that it was a bit patchy and appeared worse between the 'vanes'. Perhaps the inside face of the rotor is pulling heat across from the outside face, thus cooling the area at the vanes better that the air in the between the vanes does. I should have taken a photo before sanding it off....

or when I jump on the brakes the outer pad works a lot harder then the inner pistons

Its hard to see how this could happen unless the inner pistons are stuck. Force = fluid pressure x area, which is the same on both sides.

Makes me wonder why DBA are only doing a limited run of these, curved vane with Alcon style slots.

I would guess the curved vanes provide more surface area and better fluid flow, so better cooling.

Maybe the limited run is a beta test?

as for the alcon slots? marketing.

They're also copying what appears to be a better design - alcon thought well about stress concentration.

I hope they give up on the bloody "wiper slot" and "kangaroo paw" bullshit and keep making those curved vane one with the alcon style slots (or even normal slots).

Its hard to see how this could happen unless the inner pistons are stuck. Force = fluid pressure x area, which is the same on both sides.

yeh i get that but there is that part of me that thinks that because i run teh adpator brackets for the larger rotors that perhaps the caliper is slightly offset a mm or two?!?! So when you jump on the brakes that the rotor is being distorted and compressed against an off centre caliper.

I'm not sure if the calipers being slightly off-set would or should be a prob, as long as they are still running square to the rotor. With all pistons sharing the same fluid circuit per caliper they should "sort themselves out" for want of a better term & simply travel as far as required per side/pad to deliver equal pressure to both sides of the rotor.

Also in regards to pad drag on the rotors, my Brembo 8's actually have springs fitted behind the pistons which acts to both minimise knock-off & provide just enough contact to build & keep enough temp in the pads & rotors that initial bite & thermal shock is never an issue. This allows me to run Hawk HT-10 compound pads with a temp window of 149 C - 871 C as a street pad with no issues or "oh f**k" moments. Literally takes less than 2k's of driving from dead cold to have usable heat with NO application to help it on it's way.

It's obviously a different story if only one side of the caliper is dragging though........

Would there be any noticeable pad wear from this? Obviously if there is friction to build up heat then it's wearing the pad (even if just slightly, its 100% of the time!). How quickly do you go through pads?

Would there be any noticeable pad wear from this? Obviously if there is friction to build up heat then it's wearing the pad (even if just slightly, its 100% of the time!). How quickly do you go through pads?

Mate to be honest I've only done a few thousand k's on this setup & I haven't had the pads out to take a look but once I do I'll post up the info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...