Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh, but you have to run a divider plate between the engine and the bonnet over the radiator support.

dont worry Jase, you will see... :banana:

wouldn't that suck major hot air unless there was a cold air feed?

hmmmm, yes, very nice. The Carbon Fibre is a bit overkill though, and tune lenght intake runners will be expensive i dare say. Harrop do one also but 12k

Hey Stu, go get some Kleenex for cleanup. You're gonna need them.
hmmmm, yes, very nice. The Carbon Fibre is a bit overkill though, and tune lenght intake runners will be expensive i dare say. Harrop do one also but 12k

Harden the f**k up. Here's the same manifold with Al tubes.

LS7Xram_AlumTubes_4web.jpg

my s13 needs an ls1 just so i can fit that manifold.

But i reckon i can make the throttle linkage more complicated :ph34r:

Very interested to see how this car goes. You only need to better a 1:07.9 at wakefield and you are quicker than my old r32. I reckon your car has 6's in it without too much trouble, probably quicker with a bit of seat time.

yes, im all over it brother, Aaron has already quized him on runner lengths which will blow your mind.

they are also doing me some CnCd rocker covers which are trick.

Stu, I would quiz Jamie from NRE on how these are set up. They do the ones for Ingall etc.

_products.htm

Edited by BezerkR32
yes, im all over it brother, Aaron has already quized him on runner lengths which will blow your mind.

they are also doing me some CnCd rocker covers which are trick.

Saw pics of the covers on the PRI show website. Awesome!

post-695-1227042708_thumb.jpg

not heaps to report. have been chipping away at the long list of little fidly jobs like mounting ECU and com port, fitting temp senders, gear shift boot, tow hooks, etc. heaps fidly and time consuming but has to be done. have some second hand rubber on those rays datonas and they look good. scored some second hand semi slicks of one of the brut utes. the biggest i can fit on the front is a 235. have a 245 comfortably on the rear. going to get wired soon. even put engine oil in it today so very close.

A little more done. I have fitted the LS1 wiring harness and ran it into the car to the ECU which is mounted on the passenger floor. Mounted com port plug in pasenger air vent. modified the harness and moved the position of the o2 sensor plugs as they were mounted further down the exhaust before, now they are in the headers.

brakes are bled, clutch also. fluids in engine, trans & diff.

Modified the steering knuckle a little just to get a bit more clearance. had to relieve passenger engine mount also. had to pump the trans tunnel around the shifter opening also.

Radiator, thermo fan and hoses all plumbed. Temp sender was fitted in cylinder head.

Tow hooks fitted front and rear.

Fitted diff pineapples, waiting for front & rear sway-bars to arrive.

Thats about it, going to get wired this week, then doing the tin work and fabbing a catch can and recovery tank and some ducting. Should get her back after Christmas.

post-20078-1228132129_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1228132219_thumb.jpg

Looks like you are soon finihed, and it is looking great! :rofl:

You must upload more photos and video clip from first startup... I want to hear it roar!! :laugh:

Do you have more pictures from the engine bay and interior? :no:

only whats already been posted, nothing much else has changed.

Looks like you are soon finihed, and it is looking great! :thumbsup:

You must upload more photos and video clip from first startup... I want to hear it roar!! :D

Do you have more pictures from the engine bay and interior? :)

Does look great, though looks wierd not having anything hanging out through the opening in the bar. May have to glass it back to teh radiator so you dont see light through there.

Tell me where to write a 10k checque for the conversion and i will post it off....only i know it woudl cost way more then 10k ;)

All it needs to be truly toss worthy is a close ratio box and a big silly cam to make the thing nice and peaky and make good top end. LOL, i seem to like spending money making cars slower ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...