Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

f**k this thing is loud on the inside.

don't know how happy stu was with it....but I was lucky enough to do some laps in the passenger seat and:

a. it goes like stink

b. handles pretty good and

c. stu seems to handle a steering wheel pretty good.

the dino-line is a unusual setup but its working damn well.

thanks mate, made a small error with uncle Duncan in the car like missing turn 1 but other than that the car was much better behaved. was much more confident under braking.

have some light throttle tuning to sort out and a gearbox selector issue but other than that very happy.

car held its own in a staight line against a few cars boasting 70kwatw more, but the weight factor would have a lot to do with it. wet weather sessions were interesting.....but car was solid once it dried out.

f**k this thing is loud on the inside.

don't know how happy stu was with it....but I was lucky enough to do some laps in the passenger seat and:

a. it goes like stink

b. handles pretty good and

c. stu seems to handle a steering wheel pretty good.

the dino-line is a unusual setup but its working damn well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Some good Superlap type cars in the new issue of Zoom Magazine, boys and girls. Tilton Interiors Evo, a psycho red Supra (SUPRAT) and some great photography from the event.

There's also a full feature on the Roger Clark Motorsport (RCM) Gobstopper WRX and Stu's awesome LS1 R32.

Enjoy :-)

29cwc28.jpg

I knew there was a build thread around here somewhere and i've only just found it now.

Seeing this animal in the metal idling at a standing still and running on the track is a sight to behold. It's something that you just can't visualise mentally because it has to be seen in person.

Some shots I snapped of it running at Oran Park at the SAUNSW track day. :)

_F4U8528.jpg

_F4U7492.jpg

_F4U8084.jpg

_F4U8257.jpg

cant run any forced induction over 3000cc engine capacity in sports sedan and maximum of 6000cc aspirated.

ill stroke this engine when i freshen it up which hopefully wont be in the near future. car is a handful now with 300kw, cant imagine another 100kw.

currently in the process of getting car log-booked, just finishing off a few little odds and ends like remote battery isolator cable and sealing rear parcel tray. Getting inspected this week-end.

Thanks for the great words and pictures Xmetal. love the shot at the back of the track....

ls1 is an import. 5.0L V8 was holdens last V8 motor castine block.

if u knew something about those motors u can strap a snail on and get easy 400rwkw with stock internals..no shit motor!

Car all log-booked and have sent away for my L2S liscence.

Looking forward to show-n-shine in december, as i dont think ill get it out for a meeting before the end of the year. Discovered the tach-recall button and got a shock to see highest recorded rpm, probably shouldnt do that too often.

post-20078-1257797007_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

reverse gear repaired and gearbox back in the car, looking forward to next track day which will probably be at wakie and then powercruise.

weighed car and it went 1193kg which is a little heavier than i thought but still lite enough.

reverse gear repaired and gearbox back in the car, looking forward to next track day which will probably be at wakie and then powercruise.

weighed car and it went 1193kg which is a little heavier than i thought but still lite enough.

Good on you man you should be proud of yourself for trying this . i have a porsche carrera 2 with an LS1 in it, with great help from others , the LS1 motor is lighter than the stock 6 with turbos and generates more power . Good luck
Good on you man you should be proud of yourself for trying this . i have a porsche carrera 2 with an LS1 in it, with great help from others , the LS1 motor is lighter than the stock 6 with turbos and generates more power . Good luck

Do show, where is your build thread?

  • 2 months later...

hey guys, long time since any updates. Running the car on Anzac day to finish tune on the track to tidy up some light throttle issues. Also trying some new wheel alignment specs. Hope to see some of you there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...