Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah that would be more the go, but people put a LOT of time and money into designing the forward facing ones - I think most places would say it's not worth it if you can get a properly designed forward facing one. The whole "it's not worth it, just do what's been proven to work" element has stopped a few paths I might have gone down. You've gotta talk to some of the knowledgeable ppl on here and see what they think (don't consider myself one of them!) EG, I didn't know about the 120 degree bend pipe setup until I really looked into this.

I went the Blitz style simply cos it's got the least extra piping of the lot, ignoring forward facing plenums which involve more work (and money I don't have right now).

  • 3 weeks later...
Yeah that would be more the go, but people put a LOT of time and money into designing the forward facing ones - I think most places would say it's not worth it if you can get a properly designed forward facing one. The whole "it's not worth it, just do what's been proven to work" element has stopped a few paths I might have gone down. You've gotta talk to some of the knowledgeable ppl on here and see what they think (don't consider myself one of them!) EG, I didn't know about the 120 degree bend pipe setup until I really looked into this.

I went the Blitz style simply cos it's got the least extra piping of the lot, ignoring forward facing plenums which involve more work (and money I don't have right now).

does the one you got use the factory piping?

im looking at getting one of these so i can still run the factory airbox, just a bit worried about using the factory rubber piping with higher boost.

It's being installed right about now, and yes it uses the stock piping. Should have no problems, I'll be using the stock airbox too.

I've found yet another style of FMIC piping but haven't had time to draw the picture: the intake runs up past the intake plenum on the side opposite to normal (so on the LHS looking from the front of the car), then comes backwards in a tight bend into the normal inlet.

  • 3 weeks later...

You can use pretty much any FMIC with a straight entry and exit on either side for that setup - you just need a front facing plenum too, possibly some other bits. I guess you'd have to get ur mechanic to fab it up, unless you get a full kit like a Plazmaman. It may or many not be worth doing depending on your engine and existing/planned mods - there are other threads specifically about this.

Diagram 05 is awesome, thats what I am running on my R32.

Looks dead stock in the engine bay, also put stock air box in to give it a very stock look.

Didn't have to cut/move or break anything to fit it in and it doesn't even sit that low. I like it because the return pipe to the intake manifold always gets air and it stays cool, so its cool upon entrance to the intake plenum.

Also retained the stock guard lining as well.

Mine sits fairly heigh to be honest, you can see the bottom pipe through the front bar. Its a BLITZ kit, easiest and BEST mod I have ever done.

Nice write up mate, very informative!

can someone plz clarify this..im looking at getting a FMIC with same setup. does it really need no cutting or scraping work to install the ARC or blitz? and will it fit any front bumper..or might the bumper need work? and also has anyone tried cooling pro kit sold by justjap? its also set up as diagram 05 like the blitz lm.

Edited by taz2008
  • 1 month later...

Perfect summary of Intercoolers an their different types! Love the Drawing! Planning on doing type 7 to my 34 with a G-Reddy plenum! Hopefully avoiding all the heat and keeping lag down

  • 3 years later...

Hey I own a R32 GTST and have a custom RB20det plenum made up, its just a stock one with a pipe welded at the front converting it to a front facing plenum. I already have the blizt return setup, works ok but i want less piping to decrease lag and increase cooling. As Ben explained that style of plenum may mix up the air ratios, ive been told that by one tuner (who actually has a bad rep i found out). And another tuner Ben @ RacePace said the plenum will work well and that theory of un-even air distribution aka leaning out 6th cylinder is a myth. So Im keen to use the plenum and ditch the blitz return setup for a full custom setup. One big question im a little concerned about, Cutting a hole in the bottom wall that's under the battery tray. (to bring the intercooler piping around and through the hole up to the plenum rather than between the radiator and engine). Is this allowed? I was told that your car becomes a write off as its a "Chassis Alteration" even tho its a small 3" hole say. and you cannot see it unless inspected.

Im sure im not the only one wondering whether this is allowed or not... or maybe i am lol :/ anyway if theres any info about this issue or any of my custom setup please let me know.

Cheers :)

  • 1 month later...

Would appreciate any info on installation of a Blitz return flow type kit into a 1990 32gtst, specifically wanting to know which parts of the front bar and metal supports need trimming moding etc.

Cheers Mike.

Is there much diffrance between actual intercooler and brand ect, Core size and what not, There seems to be so many brans and generic cores out there, i dont see there being any differance needed between a rb25det and a rb26dett.

Im im the market for one to suit my RB26dett R33 GTS4. No clue were to start.

just get a just jap one or something.. really depends on budget and what you are using the car for.

you can spend $150 for one off ebay

or buy a garret core for around $650 depending on core size then get a well know automotive fabricator to design / make end tanks,

end cost $1200 or there abouts

  • 3 weeks later...

Would appreciate any info on installation of a Blitz return flow type kit into a 1990 32gtst, specifically wanting to know which parts of the front bar and metal supports need trimming moding etc.

Cheers Mike.

i got a 32 gts rb20det return flow blitz kit. no need to trim anything except the stock bumper. the mounting will be tilted so that u wont have to cut the reo bar anymore and wont have to trade off the safety that the reo bar provides. i will post some pics as soon as i find my cam. thumbsup.gif

i got a 32 gts rb20det return flow blitz kit. no need to trim anything except the stock bumper. the mounting will be tilted so that u wont have to cut the reo bar anymore and wont have to trade off the safety that the reo bar provides. i will post some pics as soon as i find my cam. thumbsup.gif

Excellent much appreciate that, I was even considering and aftermarket gtr f-bar but that was a last resort, as I don't like gtst's pretending to be gtrs.

Mike.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...