Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How many people keep their airbags in their cars for motorsport? Has anyone else heard of them going off for no apparent reason?

The reason I ask is that I was up at DECA on the skidpan on the weekend and the airbag in the car I was driving deployed for no apparent reason (I didnt hit a cone - I was pretty much driving straight but was only travelling around 40km/hr max). Its got me thinking how bad that would have been if it had been in a high speed section of a racetrack rather than in the middle of a concrete skidpan doing low speeds because I can tell you I was out of it for a few seconds after it happnened (was in an R33 GTR). So I'm wondering if I should get rid of mine ASAP?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207577-motorsport-and-airbags/
Share on other sites

How many people keep their airbags in their cars for motorsport? Has anyone else heard of them going off for no apparent reason?

The reason I ask is that I was up at DECA on the skidpan on the weekend and the airbag in the car I was driving deployed for no apparent reason (I didnt hit a cone - I was pretty much driving straight but was only travelling around 40km/hr max). Its got me thinking how bad that would have been if it had been in a high speed section of a racetrack rather than in the middle of a concrete skidpan doing low speeds because I can tell you I was out of it for a few seconds after it happnened (was in an R33 GTR). So I'm wondering if I should get rid of mine ASAP?

Joises! Woulda given you a fright I bet.

I can't see why it would have deployed (issue with poor previous accident repair maybe??).

For rallying we have to de-activate/remove all airbags and this is checked at scrutineering.

I'd certainly be de-activating the airbag if the car had proper harnesses, seats, and a 6 point cage.

How many people keep their airbags in their cars for motorsport? Has anyone else heard of them going off for no apparent reason?

The reason I ask is that I was up at DECA on the skidpan on the weekend and the airbag in the car I was driving deployed for no apparent reason (I didnt hit a cone - I was pretty much driving straight but was only travelling around 40km/hr max). Its got me thinking how bad that would have been if it had been in a high speed section of a racetrack rather than in the middle of a concrete skidpan doing low speeds because I can tell you I was out of it for a few seconds after it happnened (was in an R33 GTR). So I'm wondering if I should get rid of mine ASAP?

not the safest thing to have happen during an event, like you said lucky it wasn't at any high speed

** I take no responsibilty if you do this and the airbad deploys, but it worked for us**

Edit: *note, Anything to do with an airbag is usually shrouded with Yellow conduit.

When we built the blue 34 it was easy peasy. I just disconnected the battery, unplugged the driver's bag under the steering column lower shroud, removed the wheel, and then removed the entire airbag itself.

The passenger side was easy too, just dropped the glovebox out, unplugged the bag, and unbolted it. It's attached to the dash support bar, and is suprisingly heavy compared to the driver's bag :D

Edited by Marlin

In the past I definitely would deactivate my airbag. But i use a race seat and harness in my street car for track events pretty much making the airbag useless and if it did deploy would probably cause me to have a bigger accident than would have if i could see where i was going/able to hold the steering wheel.

if people are still using a street seat and inertia reel seat belt... im still kind of in two minds whats that way to go...

Interesting thread as it has been something I have thought about in the past. As mine is used on the street and stupid rules say I can't use the harness on the street then I'd have to keep it.

If this is the R33GTR I think you are talking about would it have anything to do with the previous damage caused at Morwell??

How do they deactivate airbags?

Is it done electronically or do the internals have to be removed from the steering wheel?

Basically all a CAMS scrutineer will look for is an Airbag light on the dash meaning there's a fault.

They can be either deactivated by just disconnecting them or pulling the fuse, or completely removed like my post above.

If you were to permanently disable them, I'd be inclined to remove them completely, maybe even sell them? They've gotta be worth a bob or two?

re a street car as you guys are discussing, it poses an interesting question....... I'm not sure how I'd handle it, and of course disconnecting an airbag will deem a fully registered cat un-roadworthy.

Interesting thread as it has been something I have thought about in the past. As mine is used on the street and stupid rules say I can't use the harness on the street then I'd have to keep it.

If this is the R33GTR I think you are talking about would it have anything to do with the previous damage caused at Morwell??

Its was ferni's car - not Scotsmans and I don't think ferni has ever had an accident that I'm aware of.

Naa no accidents.... Well not while i've had the car, and i've done plenty of DECA and Track days.... Snowy was doing nothing different to what i've done in the car. And he made a good point, imagine i was doing 200k/h into turn1 at PI and it went off, i'd be dead.

A few things.

1. Anyone got a R33 S2/S3 airbag (with or without steering wheel) they want to sell me? :D

2. Is it as simple as pulling the airbag fuse at track days to disable it? there is a fuse for it at the right drivers side knee....

3. Has anyone had this happen before? He had hit no cones or anything.... and was doing pretty much the same thing i was doing all day, sideways around cones on the skid pan.....

4. Anyone got any ideas on what i can check to see what caused it? I found some stuff on NS.com about airbag diags etc...

Reseting the airbag light ....

Just do this:

First: Open the driver's side door and get in.

Secondly: Get in and shut your door.

Next: Put your key in and turn it to the ON position(But not to start your car).

Now: Wait for your airbag light to start blinking. Then open your door and press the door ajar button seven (7) times.

Finally: Close your door and start your car up.laugh.gif

Well that's it and have fun... and if it don't work then, it must be something in the actual wires.

Airbag Diagnostics...

If the flashing still continue after you try the above sequence, your airbag has faults.

Try this:

Within 7 seconds of turning the ignition on (position II) press the drivers door switch at least 5 times this puts you into the diag mode, the airbag light should flash in a series of long and short flashes, count the short ones.

0 All OK

2 Drivers airbag module circuit fault

7 Diag sensor fault

8 Passenger airbag module fault

9 More than 2 faults present

Then ignition off wait a few seconds then back on and within 7 seconds of turning the ignition on press the drivers door switch at least 5 times this puts you into user mode.

When you go back into user mode it will cancel any errors in the diagnostic unit memory and if the system is OK and it was just a glitch the light will stay out, if there really is a problem it will start flashing again.

These is the fault codes. If it still persist, get nissan to use the consult and reset your ECU. Some of us has tried this but the flashing came back after two weeks.

I guess it could be one of many points down the signal chain that could have possibly set your airbag off. I don't know where the sensors are located in a GTR but certainly on my 33 gtst (drivers side only) the sensor has no protection from being hit by debris and i guess if the 13 year old plastic has lost some strength anything solid being flicked at it could potentially create the short required.

could also be heat somewhere that has caused the signal wires shield to melt and complete the circuit, or even just liquid to allow a short which once again could be quite possible in the position the sensor is located on my 33.

Lucky it was on a skid pan!

I would definitely remove/disable all airbags when using a racing harness....

But when using the stock seatbelts, I *PERSONALLY* would probably leave them enabled, but that's just me. IMHO the chance of them randomly going off VS. the chance of them saving significant injury during a crash makes it worthwhile keeping.

Its was ferni's car - not Scotsmans and I don't think ferni has ever had an accident that I'm aware of.

Holy crap....now I've got one more thing I need to worry about when punting my car :D

I 2nd ferni's question....does anyone know an easy way of disabling the airbags (I have a driver and passenger one) while doing motorsport ie pulling a fuse or two?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...