Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

think this was already known but the major Capital cities are being given 2 locations only for buying the GT-R's. In Melbourne for anyone that is interested Blackburn "will most likely be one of those locations".

I've also heard horror stories about Blackburn Nissan. I feel sorry for the poor guy who just splashed out $150K on a GT-R and has to deal with those muppets.

There's no proper Nissan dealership / service centre in Docklands, is there? Given that STi is based there, as well as quite a few other companies' premier dealerships, it would seem the logical place. All those long, straight stretches of relatively deserted road would also be a good place to.....erm....test drive that 500hp DSG gearboxed car.

As for de-tuning, the 350Z is pretty much close to top-spec compared to international markets. The only difference is that the forged rims made by RAYS Engineering are an option here on the Track, rather than standard as they are overseas.

Chances are the GT-R will have to have its engine de-tuned for 95RON, since 98RON isn't available everywhere and 100RON is even harder to find. We'd probably get the US-spec 450hp engine (assuming that's true), since US fuel quality is similar to our own.

Nissan has said the 911T is it's main rival and has benchmarked it against the GT-R the whole way through it's development. How is it meant to compete with said car if it's detuned???

Its faster now. Detuning it a little would make it the same speed, so it could still "compete".a

Funny how the most popular (or close to it)Nissan road car here hasn't been sold in Australia by Nissan Aust for over 15 years

The Pulsar hasn't been sold here for 15 years?

In order to make room in the engine management system for the low octane "emergency" maps they have to delete the high octane, big power, maps....

Considering how cheap storage is these days, and how small you can get it (you can fit a 4GB onto a postage-stamp sized SD card, which is far more data than an entire ECU codebase let alone just the A/F mapping) if that's true then its the stupidest excuse I've ever heard.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd say Gary Rogers Nissan in Glen Waverley and Brighton Nissan would be the best suited to carry the GTR in Melbourne, they've always been the most cluey about Nissan sports cars.

how about ferntree gully Nissan hehe.. then potential buyers can get a good run up the windy roads to sky high, get a good feel for it. btw I was expecting that sorta price range too, thank god its not more expensive, I have to own one of these R35's before I die. just need the monies..

australia is not the 'rest of the world' we are but one tiny, tiny market. by all accounts the UK, EU and US cars will be very close to the japanese domestic market cars in performance, that is what matters to the world market. australia doesn't even rate a mention.

This works both ways. Australia is not a worthwhile market to spend money in R&D in. Therefore we won't be worth spending money on developing a shittier brake package for therefore we will most likely see the massive brembos on Australian cars.

I think we will see something like:

- US Spec suspension

Softer suspension has already been announced for the US market

- US Spec gearbox

Apparently it's a little less noisy than the JDM model

- Detuned ECU for Australian fuels,

There is a ECU map for each market the car is sold in already this is no big deal the car will still make tonnes of power and it will be re programmable in the near future

- Only 1 spec available

Premium non black edition, no base model

- Fewer options

No rear view camera, no LED daylight running lights, no navigation or navi a dealer option only at $5k

When I went to put some money down on an R35 they guy there in charge of the R35 stuff told me that Nissan actually has someone who scours forums such as this to try to find out what we as enthusiasts think the car should be priced at for them to be better able to position the vehicle. So to everyone, stop talking this piece of shit car up and let Nissan know we think its only worth 120k and no more lol!

Why would Nissan make a 'special' for Australia only?

More parts, greater inventory = extra unwarranted expense. Except for the fuel issues, I see no valid reason to go to the extra expense of dragging a few cars off the production line and changing peripheral fittings just to torture Oz owners.

The most expediant thing Nissan can do is make them as close to all the same as possible, and just makes too much good business sense to try to do that at every opportunity.

Why would Nissan make a 'special' for Australia only?

More parts, greater inventory = extra unwarranted expense. Except for the fuel issues, I see no valid reason to go to the extra expense of dragging a few cars off the production line and changing peripheral fittings just to torture Oz owners.

The most expediant thing Nissan can do is make them as close to all the same as possible, and just makes too much good business sense to try to do that at every opportunity.

totally agree, why would nissan do that to the australians and oz spec 35GTR..just doesnt sound right, however if they do de-tune the engines and downgrade parts i sure we'll just be re-tuning and upgrading anyhow, so why not save us time and money

totally agree, why would nissan do that to the australians and oz spec 35GTR..just doesnt sound right, however if they do de-tune the engines and downgrade parts i sure we'll just be re-tuning and upgrading anyhow, so why not save us time and money

Well they have to make an Australian spec no matter what. They can't ship us a US Spec because they're all LHD and they cant ship us the Japanese spec because the controls are in Japanse. We have to get an Australian spec mix of both of those.

It continues to amaze me that people with $ 100,000+ BMW's and Merc's won't fill them with either of the premium unleaded grades. Even the Holden V8's stipulate 98 octane for optimum performance....

yup... EVERY time i'm at the servo there's some tool filling his VE SS or XR8 with 91... not to mention all the euro cars

2. It is unlikely we will be getting the complete Japanese spec however. I'd heard rumours of things like brake downgrades and de-tuned engines but he either didn't know or wouldn't say anything other than "we don't know the final specification details on the Australian delivered cars yet" Again - Sydney Motorshow for those.

Personally, I find this really strange.

Surely there's enough variance in fuel quality globally and

enough room in the ECU for maps to suit <insert crap fuel here>

as well as the nitro the 'ring time was run on.

Yes, I'm joking about the nitro (probably:))

(applies for patent on octane-detecting fuel sender)

Regards,

Saliya

this is the same problem i have always has with subaru the car that you buy in australia is far from what you buy in japan,

c spec STI jap model is an amazing car, australia only version is a p.o.s. diufferent engine different steering different suspension, different weight everything.

thats why i bought a mitsubishi evo a while back ( aus model evo 9) it was very close to jap spec and just fantastic. but no gtr ! lol

it will be a shame if nissan detune it or soften it up, but i lways thought the pricing may come down a bit from the 160k pricing thats been thrown around.

When I went to put some money down on an R35 they guy there in charge of the R35 stuff told me that Nissan actually has someone who scours forums such as this to try to find out what we as enthusiasts think the car should be priced at for them to be better able to position the vehicle. So to everyone, stop talking this piece of shit car up and let Nissan know we think its only worth 120k and no more lol!

I'll give them $50 for one, and not a cent more.

Oh, and it'd better come with a full tank of fuel at that price.

Good point. Nissan can get free market research on these forums. YES we think the R35 should be modified to meet ADR's and also cope with our lower-octane fuel- but de-tuning, as was done with the 200SX, is really dampening the impact of the flagship Nissan. It's illogical.

Edited by R338OY

Anyone interested in the release dates?

1/04/09

On which date was the R35 released in japan???

24/10/07

That, everybody, is 7 days LATER than 18months..

We only need an 18month window of opprtunity and we get automatic SEVS entry...

Let's see when they arrive, but this will open the floodgates to SEVS imports.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...