Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spotted a Black R34 (maybee gtr) going across train lines at Blackburn Station tonight around 10:30-11:00pm heading towards Whitehorse Rd direction.

Lighting conditions were a bit dim missed plates, but it looked like mirror finish paint job. Nice exhaust note too :thumbsup:

I was going in opposite direction.

saw a black r32 with sau stickers on burwood hwy near deakin uni yesterday around 4:30pm, then a few mins later a white r33 gtst ive seen before with a few gauges in the window and a drift cat sticker on the back.

yepp, that glitter red one with carbon bonnet and these massive chromies....

turned out to be my mates' mate ( i reiterate, I DON'T KNOW HIM lol)

and turns out his fiance did a runner 4 days before they were about to get married..wouldn't have happened if his was driving a gtr :P

btw, was out with a couple of lines and a silvia and sti last night

the highlight for me was my mate's new R34 GTR V Spec in bayside blue. When he got the car, took it straight to race pace with N1's and is currently pulling 320rwkw on 18psi.

the car is surprisingly legit, considering the person he bought it off lol, comp test resulted 175psi across all 6 within 4 cranks. Runs TE37 SL's and looks the goods :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...