Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've tried searching but couldn't find any solid info.

What are the 'extra's' so to speak that the 94 R32 GTR's have over 89,90,91,92,93 models?

I've heard rumor's that the motor's have the crank collar and the car has slightly bigger/better front brake's but as i said i can't find any confirmation.

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217460-1994-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Hey mate...

93 onwards got the 33 GTR crank... but the snout to oil pump problem was still there.. It also got the pull type clutch rather then push.

r u sure about the clutch?

cause when looking for a clutch for my rb25 last year i found it didn't matter whether it was push/pull?

so its still worth getting the crank collars for the later model 32's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217460-1994-r32-gtr/#findComment-3839336
Share on other sites

they all got cross drilled brakes - all base model r32 gtr were the same brakes, the vspecs came with brembos same as 33 and 34 gtr

late r32s had longer crank drive for oil pump as said above, pull type clutch (yes same gear box as 33 gtr series 1 and 2, but 33 series 3 was different). different colour dash lights. side intrusion bars in the doors. cut outs in the front bumper reo bar for n1 ari ducts.

thats all I can think of.

But by now none of that is worth anything - even a 94 gtr is 14 years old so its not like the age will make much difference. If you are looking to buy one don't pay too much extra

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217460-1994-r32-gtr/#findComment-3841067
Share on other sites

nah he means they have the cutouts in the reo behind the bumper, so if/when you want to put in the N1 vents no need to cut the reo. :banana:

Yeah in a rare moment of clarity I think I understand. :laugh:

Anyway, here is a photo of a completely random 94 model. The cut outs don't look especially factory....

post-5134-1210034286_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217460-1994-r32-gtr/#findComment-3845641
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...