Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Use BCPR7ES forget platinum plugs and tell your tuner to stop using BKR's in RB's.... they are 2.5mm shorter and only amplify ignition problems due to poor contact.

Hmm might give that a shot, taking the car back once I get the leak fixed, may swap out the plugs for some BCP's instead

Anyone think the PFR plugs are worth the investment?

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm might give that a shot, taking the car back once I get the leak fixed, may swap out the plugs for some BCP's instead

Anyone think the PFR plugs are worth the investment?

i usually have to swap em out for BCP's.

Hey Trent, have you ever tried, or know of anyone trying, the BUR9EQ plug in an RB?

Expensive for a street plug but if they'll work, they are a group 8 plug I think, so better for a track/drag machine.

thats a rotary plug from memory, on anything over 1.9bar or big hp i like to use the fine flush type electrodes heat ranges 8-10. (many advantages, i wont list) see pic

NGK%20Racing.jpg

Edited by URAS

Trent,

I was concerned with the BKR's due to them being 2.5mm shorter. I measured it all up and dummy fitted with the boot off - no issues with contact, the spring still compresses a lot.

Running bkr7e's i've ran up to 25psi and had no issues with my 300,000km+ 17yr old Nissan coils.

I previously ran BCPR6E's but they were coming out looking too hot. 7's look just right for the power its making.

I've also ran a supposive race NGK copper plug forget the part number. The electrode was a flush type. If anything it felt like it lost a little low/mid range until it got up on boost.

Must admit the only reason I went with BKR7E's is I was unable to find BCPR7E's anywhere :(

Its all in the head but I swear the V-Grooves (non-S) work/feel a little better. :P

Edited by TheRogue

So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

Just a wild question, its probably been asked before, but i couldnt be bothered reading through the 20+ pages.

Does anyone know if there are any decent tuners for the vipec here in Auckland, NZ??

and roughly how much for drive in drive out?

Torque performance are Link dealers. I am sure Soichi will be able to tune them.
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

If you are happy with your Power FC and have time on your hands build yourself a Jaycar IEBC - I had some difficulty building mine (not very electronic) but once installed it is great to use.
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

Autoworx WA...Glen 'lumpy' Cambell...Brett West in Adelaide...JPC in Victoria...URAS in Victoria...ESP in ACT....Mercury Motorsport in QLD...Insight in Sydney...just to name a few. And thats only Australia...they are sold all over the world and are very popular in the US and starting to take off in the UK.

No agenda Roy...im no dealer or reseller of this product...its a great ecu actually....I did want to be a dealer but Ray had his dealer network already set-up from the Autronic days...No conspiracy theory etc. Do you think id risk my car, my reputation and other peoples cars on crappy hardware?

Edited by DiRTgarage
So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

I have a V88 installed in my R33 GTR, has not missed a beat since it got tuned in August last year! Installed and tuned by Brett West in Adelaide.

Mike

I have the V44 plug in for an R32 GTR. Installed by Shaun @ Boostworx here in Adelaide.

Very happy with it - runs very smooth, off boost response is better than my Power FC. Only just got it installed and have an intermediate run in tune so haven't explored all the features of the ECU yet, but looking forward to when I do!

So here is the litmus test, outside of the Newcastle and associatred Godzilla guys who is installing, running and happy with these ecus?

I am considering it but very happy with the Power Fc but too cheap to buy a boost controller which is making me look at the all up cost of one of these.

Just dont want to fall victim of a NSW version of the Perth Wolf ECU saga where it seemed ppl were pushing an agenda

They're selling like hotcakes over here in WA and haven't heard anything bad so far, I will be ditching the Haltech in my Stag soon and going with the Vipec.

Not sure on whether to get a Vipec for the 32.. thinking of going a remap again (or Nistune nowadays) until I max out the z32 afm, then probably look at a Vipec to run the 30.

upgrading the ecu in our circuit gtr from Power FC to Vi-PEC pnp...we will be tuning on the same dyno so will post up some overlay's when finished.

not to be smart but there should be no differrence in power, both do the same thing. I have matched the PFC, LINK, MOTEC install on GTR's with the emanage ultimate...... takes longer to get the final result with the EMU but both graphs are identical. Its the other niceties of the better ecu's which make it a good upgrade.

They're selling like hotcakes over here in WA and haven't heard anything bad so far, I will be ditching the Haltech in my Stag soon and going with the Vipec.

Not sure on whether to get a Vipec for the 32.. thinking of going a remap again (or Nistune nowadays) until I max out the z32 afm, then probably look at a Vipec to run the 30.

why ditch the Haltech? if its a e11v2 i cant see the point... sure the software is clunky but they tune up good.

Edited by URAS

Maybe I don't know enough about the Haltech (I didn't put it in, and yes it's an e11v2) but I don't think it's talking to the auto properly, 1-2 shifts in particular, and high rpm and WOT really doesn't want to go into gear, if I back off ever so slightly OR let it hit the limiter once, in she goes..

Was talking with Autoworx and he said he should be able to get the Vipec shifting the auto to within 90% of factory shifts..

so how much does a vipec v44/88 cost ? are they AFM or MAP based and if the latter, does the r34 gtt require any extra sensors ?

Vi-PEC skyline plug-in is $1750 and has the map sensor built in. It runs all the factory sensors and AFM support is due on the next firmware upgrade.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...