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Well i've had no issues with the jigsaw so far. I've cut out a rough template on the alloy and just need to tidy up the edges to make it a snug fit. I clamped the alloy down onto a pair of outdoor wooden seats and whilst spraying some WD40 along the cut line the jigsaw blasted through it and left quite a neat finish. If I need to do long straight cuts i'll clamp down a straight bit of timber beside the cut and allow the jigsaw to glide along beside that. It does have that laser beam which is extremely handy, glad I spent the extra $20 to get that feature.

Realising that some of the inner door bracing sticks out I went and bought a little Bosch grinder and i've started to cut away the bracing so it's all flat. Once it's flat and the alloy fits right i'll then cut out select pieces of the bracing to reduce weight whilst trying to keep the door rigit. I'm going to bend it over at the top and meet it up within a few mm of the window, not sure how i'll bend it yet but that's the last area i'll work on. I might be able to find a nice rounded bit of scrap metal and whack it around that. It'll be getting sprayed white so that should hide any minor mistakes.

oh and we have to shove this in there somewhere too

ac68_1.JPG

Too easy buddy,,,bloody drop in ocean. Mark and I'll make the straps/fit the tank and you can have the easy job and take the Glory.

Steve-o I think the boys have settled on 8 spot alcons with 380mm discs on the front and 4 spot alcons with 320mm discs on the rear.

Love as always

Neil.

Well i've had no issues with the jigsaw so far. I've cut out a rough template on the alloy and just need to tidy up the edges to make it a snug fit. I clamped the alloy down onto a pair of outdoor wooden seats and whilst spraying some WD40 along the cut line the jigsaw blasted through it and left quite a neat finish. If I need to do long straight cuts i'll clamp down a straight bit of timber beside the cut and allow the jigsaw to glide along beside that. It does have that laser beam which is extremely handy, glad I spent the extra $20 to get that feature.

Realising that some of the inner door bracing sticks out I went and bought a little Bosch grinder and i've started to cut away the bracing so it's all flat. Once it's flat and the alloy fits right i'll then cut out select pieces of the bracing to reduce weight whilst trying to keep the door rigit. I'm going to bend it over at the top and meet it up within a few mm of the window, not sure how i'll bend it yet but that's the last area i'll work on. I might be able to find a nice rounded bit of scrap metal and whack it around that. It'll be getting sprayed white so that should hide any minor mistakes.

So your are taking the alloy all the way up to where the old trim used to sit next the window,,,Yes?. I like that way of doing it. Bending it is easy mate and just bend it slightly by hand 1st and then using something like the handle of a hammer ,,,slide along the wood scrap and it will look great.

Neil.

Too easy buddy,,,bloody drop in ocean. Mark and I'll make the straps/fit the tank and you can have the easy job and take the Glory.

Steve-o I think the boys have settled on 8 spot alcons with 380mm discs on the front and 4 spot alcons with 320mm discs on the rear.

Love as always

Neil.

Hmmm so they did finally decide to get the brakes from me neil!!!

You'll be needing the 'ol bias controller with the proposed set-up anyways.

Edited by Risking

With thin aly you can almost bend it by hand if the bend is fairly large diameter, otherwise use a soft tipped hammer and some sort of wood dowling like Neil said. It's pretty easy as you can bend it back if you go wrong as long as you don't crease it. Just don't put it in the vice without some soft jaws, it marks easily

Nearly finished the door trims, they are cut to size and fit perfectly but I just need to tidy up underneath so they sit flush at the corners (the whole thing will drop lower about 5mm in the pictures). I cut everything out with the jigsaw, touched afew bits up with the grinder then paid ($5) to have the 90deg bend done across the top because I wanted that to look neat. Then I need to mould the corners better so their are no sharp bits and make sure the door shuts properly without rubbing on anything. The hardest bit now will be trying to pop rivet it down to something behind because their isn't much left :blush:

I also bought a 6m length of 8mm round bar for $12 which I will bend up to make the support frame for the perspex windows, need about 2.5m for each window. I'll leave the window in until i've moulded this round bar so looks like its another trip to Bunnings to buy a bending device ;)

Edit: They'll be painted to match the exterior colour.

post-1296-1214808889_thumb.jpg post-1296-1214808983_thumb.jpg post-1296-1214809105_thumb.jpg

Edited by benm

looks good mate. my only comment would be the alloy looks pretty thick to me? that would be my only suggestion, maybe for mark II use some thinner sheet as it doesn't need to be thick at all.

edit: just read your post on the last page. 1.6mm is definitely a bit of overkill for the door trims. you coul probably go half that thickness for half the weight. :blush:

Hey guys how is it coming along? Is the engine started? You guys are starting to give me ideas I am getting sick of trying to keep me car on the road and make it comply and work for the track.

HHHMMMM anyone want a R33?

We did a bit over the weekend. Duncan got busy with a grinder cleaning up some rust before painting and we test fitted the big turbos.

The turbos are big and don't straight fit in, but don't look as bad as they may have been. With everything gone from the left hand side of the engine bay, there is actually quite a bit of room.

The real drama is the engine mount. It fouls on the turbo with standard dumps. custom dumps would make it all fit easy, but that's not in the spirit of this car (read budget), but it should be alright. What I'm going to do when cutting the old flanges and putting the new t3 flanges on is angle them upwards instead of of flat. This will push the bottom of the turbos away from the block and give more clearance.

The next issue is the rear turbo intake. It could be done by going up and over like the standard GTR, but since we are not going with standard intercooler, it would be nice to have it come more straight forward. Don't know if it will be possible, may have to weld aly straight to the turbo because of the proximity to rear exhaust. We'll see.

Exhaust side looks ok and the external wastegate will fit pretty easily where the ABS pump used to be.

twin gates mark. Mine work perfectly with the OEM manifolds. I found boost creep when trying to link the two manifolds together and using one gate. The GTRS work really well with externals.

This is a photo of mine as I was putting it together on the dumby engine, the pipes run down and dump to the ground. The side pipes are fully separate and exit the side obviously.

externalgates.jpg

Externalgated.jpg

Edited by Risking

well after going by super lap yesterday, I remembered I was meant to be building a car for it.

interior has been cleaned up and primed at last. may just leave it grey I think. because that would be easiest :)

lol

not sure yet. it was the all the prep to the shell that was painful so maybe we should finish painting it properly? need to strip and prime the engine bay next week too.

It did come up nice compared to the other 2 cars, we should have done them properly too.

yeah trims will be fine thats why we left the lip to rivet into. windows will be a bit trickier we may end up with the first unframeless windowed r32 :)

also removed a the remaining boot floor between the chasis rails to fit the fuel system in better. It looks like getting a filler to the fuel cell will be tricky. attessa resoviour is moving too.

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