Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was desperate to get a change done today so I just got the HPR 10. My oil reeked of fuel :(

niZmO_Man my (local) Autobarn had 10 Tenths Premium but unfortunately not the Premium 0W-50 which is what Penrite was recommending for me.

I’ll be getting some Racing 10 (10W-40) from Repco as per the suggestions above.

Thanks guys!

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

Edited by Dan_J

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days

picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55

try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed

went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

Engine : Nulon hi tech fast flowing 10W40 synthetic + one bottle of Nulon E20. - Very smooth.

Gearbox : Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift. - Tightened the box + easier cold shift / less crunch.

Diff : Nulon SAE 90. - Tightened up and stopped a reversing clunk.

Probably posted this before but all of these have improved my car. (Daily Driven)

Very Happy. :yes:

I use pretty much same have 250rwkw on my 34GTT and use 5w-40 even when taking out to track for drifting. I am going to put the 10w-50 when I head out to matsuri as it will be hotter then and a lot more track time seen than usual

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Can anyone tell me what is a safe oil temp for my r32 gtst? its a drift car with basic mods like a r34 neo turbo, hks intercooler, turbo back exhaust and a good cold air intake... also has some cooling mods such as a triple core alloy radiator, r34 viscous fan with shroud and large trust oil cooler with earls braided lines etc.

The oil is getting to 100 degrees very quickly, I always stop around then and let the car cool down but would be nice if I stay on the track for longer :) I was using penrite hpr 10 (synthetic 10w50) but have tried hpr 15 (15w60) and that made no difference.

Is there oils that are safe to use at say 120 degrees? Or could I possibly have an oil pump thats getting tired or some other issue?

any help would be appreciated :)

THanks

Oil temp of around 100 is pretty safe/normal I would have thought? My car sits on 80* day to day, and gets up to 90-95 quite quickly if I take if for a bit of a blast, and also comes down quite quickly once its been driven normally. I have a oil cooler in the front right guard that gets decent airflow

Im looking at using Penrite for my next oil change, seems to be quite popular

I haven't tried the 10 tenths range yet, would a different oil actually lower the temps? or just safe to use at higher temps? will a thinner oil cause less friction thus lowering the temp? I also change the oil about every 4 drift events...

I would be happy if it stayed at 100 degrees but it will keep climbing unless I go into the pits :( hottest I've let it get was 120

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness

others may have actual answers to this.

That's actually a pretty good point didn't even think of that. I may be better keeping my thinner oil since I don't have issues with burning of the oil or blow by

Yeah give Racing 10 (10W-40) a go. I think they have a thicker oil in that product line. These are $75/bottle, but they should be more stable when running at 100deg.

My car is street driven, but switching from HPR to SIN I found the temps stayed a little bit lower (barely detectable).

Still using nulon 10 40,near enough to 430000 ks now,fantastick stuff.

:thumbsup:

Genelle, try the Nulon Semi-Synthetic 75W-90 Smooth Shift (Gearbox) and Nulon SAE 90 (Diff).

Fantastick Stuff Indeeds. :wave:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...