Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most of the post is what they feel/hear/see/smell and nothing factual >_<.

How about this?

I changed the oil on my GT-R on the weekend. Out came 5L of 10,000km old Penrite Racing 10, in went 5.5L of Premium 5. It shut the head up on cold start (few seconds of valve train noise).

has anybody heard of the new oil type that motul are putting out now dany at garage 101 mentioned it to me one of there reps came around talking up a new race oil that is supposed to be super high quality unsure on the weights ??? motul swear by it and has backup from some of the fastest race cars around that are using it . apparantly bit pricey compared to your normal 8100 motul or whatever it is i havent used motul in a while i cant remember what the names are

does anybody have any insight into this ?

did you have the valve train noise on the previous oilchange?

How about this?
I changed the oil on my GT-R on the weekend. Out came 5L of 10,000km old Penrite Racing 10, in went 5.5L of Premium 5. It shut the head up on cold start (few seconds of valve train noise).

did you have the valve train noise on the previous oilchange?

Nope.

It was a tongue in cheek post. The noise came after some thrashing. Oil was getting old anyway. The point is, any decent oil will protect your engine, provided you replace them (and the filter) regularly. Since most of the time my GT-R is putting around in economy mode, I change the oil every 10,000km (hence using $75 oil).

  • 3 weeks later...

So I have being using GW Synx-3000 semi-syn oil for my car every 5000km or 6 month for a while & I'm wondering if I go with a full-syn oil would I be able to extend that interval to 10,000-15,000km or every 1 year?

Reason being I'm too lazy :whistling: & the Car (basic bolt on mods) is currently used by my mum driving back & forward to work, which is only ~6km or so & probably never sees boost (besides the time I take it for a drive).

Edited by Mayuri Krab

short distance driving is normally considered "Harsh" driving by most manufactures, which in turn calls for more frequent servicing. I would stick with the 6 month, 5,000km. I would not extend it to 10-15k, but thats just me. Im fussy.

Bought some Penrite 10W-40 Everyday plus as it was on special & $1 (almost 6 Yuan worth of savings! :yes:) than GW Syn-X 3000.

Will see how it goes but my initial verdict is: probably would make f**k all difference...

  • 2 weeks later...

I have noticed that the Penrite Premium 5 (5W-60) runs hotter (operating temp seems to be 90-100°C) than Racing 10 (10W-40, sits around 85-95°C-ish).

It might be the design of the oil, but I definitely need to run an oil cooler.

I noticed the same thing going from Liqui Moly 10w40 to 10w60, I think the extra pressure causes the oil to heat quicker... or something.

I will be going back to a 10w40 next change as 100psi oil pressure cruising at 2500 revs seems excessive. lol.

I asked the question in another thread and it was answered regarding Nulon street and track 15W 50 vs Nulon extreme 10W 60. I usually use the 15W 50. I have a track day coming up and bought more of the street and track. What I don't understand is the difference between the two. In this instance I am obviously wanting to know which would be best for a 25DET, standard internals with bolt ons maing 230ish rwkw. I would like to know about it so I can make my own decision. I have read through here a bit but people tend to use abbreviations and I have no idea what they mean.

I asked the question in another thread and it was answered regarding Nulon street and track 15W 50 vs Nulon extreme 10W 60. I usually use the 15W 50. I have a track day coming up and bought more of the street and track. What I don't understand is the difference between the two. In this instance I am obviously wanting to know which would be best for a 25DET, standard internals with bolt ons maing 230ish rwkw. I would like to know about it so I can make my own decision. I have read through here a bit but people tend to use abbreviations and I have no idea what they mean.

15W-50 will be fine. Just monitor your oil temperatures and if you're creeping around 120C maybe look into getting an oil cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...