Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think it was the other way around, you were in my slipstream until the last 50m when you flashed past me at about ~310mph before braking :)

Very interested in the DVD's, are they downloadable? PM me.

  • 3 weeks later...
I don't think the shaft needs to be removed. I did not do that part myself however so couldn't tell you definately sorry. Yes the centre of the comp wheel needs to be professionally enlarged if you have a big shaft VG30. Russell Engineering(works for ATS) in Adelaide did mine for me.

I was under the impression that the only part of the VG30 Turbo used is the turbine housing.

So why is there a reference to maching the new comp wheel to fit the big shaft VG30. If you use the VG30 shaft that means you also use the VG30 turbine wheel.

I thought you used the RB25 turbine wheel and shaft in the VG30 turbine housing.

Maybe I've missed something!

  • 1 month later...

boosted good to see a bit of r+d happening on the cheap:D, ive benn following your progress. and i feel i have to ask you what response will the following turbo

T4/T51 turbo , 54 trim T51 wheel in S04 compressor housing. Turbonetics Q trim wheel in .70 divided housing with T4 foot and V-band discharge

its going on a rb20 with bigger inject ect

p.s sorry to hear about the bad luck regrds to thiefs, but as always come back bigger and better

thanx

K

  • 3 weeks later...

this thread is gold.

I have a few questions about this turbo build.

I spoke to precision turbochargers and the guy told me the TO4E vtrim compressor wheel can fit on the rb25 spindle and the existing housing can be used. This would mean i do not need a vg30 exhaust housing.

Does this work?. I dont mind if it is less powerful as my goal is 210rwkw.

Is there a replacement exhaust wheel to replace the ceramic one that wont delaminate/chip? that is a direct/cheap replacement?.

The turbo will be going on an rb20 and i want it to spool up as quickly as possible with this combo.

  • 5 weeks later...
boosted good to see a bit of r+d happening on the cheap:D, ive benn following your progress. and i feel i have to ask you what response will the following turbo 

T4/T51 turbo , 54 trim T51 wheel in S04 compressor housing. Turbonetics Q trim wheel in .70 divided housing with T4 foot and V-band discharge

its going on a rb20 with bigger inject ect

p.s sorry to hear about the bad luck regrds to thiefs, but as always come back bigger and better

thanx 

K

Do you mean T51 56 trim or T04E 54trim ? I am not familiar with a T51 54trim.

this thread is gold.

I have a few questions about this turbo build.

I spoke to precision turbochargers and the guy told me the TO4E vtrim compressor wheel can fit on the rb25 spindle and the existing housing can be used. This would mean i do not need a vg30 exhaust housing. 

Does this work?. I dont mind if it is less powerful as my goal is 210rwkw.

Is there a replacement exhaust wheel to replace the ceramic one that wont delaminate/chip? that is a direct/cheap replacement?.

The turbo will be going on an rb20 and i want it to spool up as quickly as possible with this combo.

Haven't heard of a T04E Vtrim.......Somethink similar size to a HKS2530 will have good spool and make the power you are after at reasonable boost 14-17psi depending on ur setup. Cheap options are a R33 stocker which will have similar spoolup than a 2530 but be limited to 180-200rwkw on anb RB20 and also max 15psi due to the closed turbine trim and ceramic turbine. Another cheap option is a VG30 non-ball bearing turbo which is a direct bolt on and has a larger steel turbine enabling boost upto 20psi. Lag will be increased but 210rwkw will be reachable.

I have seen a T04E 54 trim installed without any turbine side mods and It made 3rwkw more than the stock 33 turbo. it was then modified with an external gate(mounted directly on the turbine housing) and made 8 more kw on the same boost. Then bored the turbine snout and made another 12rwkw. The ceramic 32/33/Vg30 turbine is just so massively restrictive after 14psi that a new compressor won't make much difference. Then there is the issue of turbo life, the T04E will make good power(250rwkw) but needs a decent wack of boost to do it, you will have trouble making 15 or more psi with the ceramic turbine as the design just doesn't create enough torque to drive the compressor to the shaft speeds needed. Also the smaller shaft(most of them accept a few BBVG30) ceramic equiped turbo's won't last long at high boost pressures. So having said all that, I would go for a compressor on the larger side which can make the power you are after at say under 15psi boost. A T04E 50 trim would do the trick no worries with quite good spool-up @ 210rwkw however if that isn't honeslty the max power you would ever want go a bigger comp like the T04 vtrim that will make 250rwkw at 15psi. I still haven't seen anyone put a T04 Super Vtrim in yet.....I think that would be the way to go 210rwkw at nice low boost with acceptable spoolup and room to spare for later mods.

Sorry for the long winded post but I haven't talked turbo's for a while :confused:

GCG do a replacement turbine and shaft that retains the BB internals, but, dirt cheap they are not.

So is this what GCG call the RB25 High Flow ? If any of you have seen these Nissan Hitachi Ceramic BB turbos pulled down the turbine shaft is unique . Maybe GCG is getting plain bearing turbines and having them ground to the same dimensions which is expensive to do . From memory I think there is a radius towards the turbine end of the shaft which forms the rear inner ball race . Assuming Im right this may also need to be hard chromed which is also expensive .

To those that have the ability to change compressor wheels there is a six bladed TO4B compressor wheel with similar blade profile and inducer size to the V trim or dash 25 . Most of the surge problems are caused by these eight blade wheels trying to move lots of air at low revs (both compressor and crank) the six blade wheels dont do this as much but still deliver enough air when the engine can take it . I'm surprised Bill at ATS has not tried this , if he did surge would be a thing of the past for a lot less cost and effort . I'll have a look at the parts list for B series wheels and post some dimension and part no figures .

Chow A .

Forgot to add if your fitting B series or any non native compressor wheels into those RB25 Hitachi covers throw your compressor maps away . Garrett maps are plotted using their native TO4B compressor covers (this is documented in the legend) and changing to non std ones alters the flow characteristics , efficiency islands , and most importantly the surge line .

To be continued , Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...