Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm, N13 pulsar, I got it for free lol

I'd rate it 3/10, no ABS, no airbags, seatbelts were pretty bad.

I was lucky enough to not be involved in any accidents with it, But i've seen a few with my own eyes that got pretty messy.

One guy tryed to change lanes into a truck. He survived after being in hospital for a couple of weeks.

I saw another where someone crashed into one head on on the freeway cause he was drunk. The lady driving didn't survive.

Jeep Cherokee soft-top a mate used to own, 0/10. Complete and utter steaming pile of shit. No redeeming qualities at all.

Crap steering, crap gear-shift, crap brakes, rock hard suspension (odd for a fourby), bounced all over the place at pretty much any speed, and the finishing touch- the soft top would try to peel back on it's own at around 100 kays, and you had to hold the velco strap where it wraps around the frame to stop it from coming open.

Worst. Car. Ever.

Every Holden from the 50's - 60's atrocious on every level.

They'd be close to the worst cars built on the planet for their time.

But the king of the whole damn shitheap is the Fiat Niki aka Fiat 126...nothing comes close.

The fiat did have a slight go-cart quality about it..but other than that it's a shocker.

The early holdens, if any of you have driven them in stock standard form you'll understand.

0/0 and 0/0 for all

Edited by madbung

my old suzuki sierra, went over anything, but city driving, no sound deadening, no pwr ANYTHING, massive 4wd tread, low speed steering was unbelievable, 1.5L4cyl 42kw... was worth it though very fun car lol. 3/10

Edited by 2BNVS
my old suzuki sierra, went over anything, but city driving, no sound deadening, no pwr ANYTHING, massive 4wd tread, low speed steering was unbelievable, 1.5L4cyl 42kw... was worth it though very fun car lol. 3/10

You're Spot On!

Low Speed Steering and especially Low Speed Stability beggars belief!!

I'm waiting patiently on Silverwater Rd some years ago at the lights, ready to turn right onto Victoria Rd.

A Sierra driver turning left into Silverwater Rd doing about 50 I guess, tips the thing over; and then it slides over to our car and stops 2m away.

More unsafe than any Skyline with CF bonnet, no windscreen wipers on a rainy night being controlled by a driver in the passenger seat...

T

1979 Honda prelude

No ABS, no airbags, shitty seat belts, hand brake didn't work, brakes sometimes didn't work, rust all through the body (badly)

I would give it a 2... I am actually surprised the doors never literally fell off considering the amount of rust it had in there...

my cars id give:

3/10: 1986 4x4 toyota hilux

(shit suspension, under brakes rears lockup very easily due to alloy tray, no power steering with play in steering)

7/10: 1992 r32 gtst

(rough ride but suspension is good and awesome brakes, awesome steering, very safe car in comparison)

note: obviously things like airbags and side intrusion bars make a car safer in the case of an accident

but for me the way a car steers and handles makes me feel safe (or unsafe which ever the case might be!)

1985 toyota hilux, fell asleep one day on the way home from work, ploughed into a motorbike i was doing around 60, he was doing 50, all i got was a scratch on the number plate while his bike was parked under my front wheels, he landed in the well side, apart from a saw ass ,he was ok.

1985 toyota hilux, fell asleep one day on the way home from work, ploughed into a motorbike i was doing around 60, he was doing 50, all i got was a scratch on the number plate while his bike was parked under my front wheels, he landed in the well side, apart from a saw ass ,he was ok.

:) I dont get it... :thumbsup:

:P I dont get it... :)

...something to do with Post #15

When you have a bike under the front wheels, brakes lock up, there's no steering and suspension goes spongy.

Don't take my word for it though... :thumbsup:

wasn't there a car that would just explode if it was hit from behind with a bit of speed? i'd say that'd be the worst. Apart from that i once saw a corolla with about 2 feet of mattress foam on each panel so i guess that has to help . . . .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...