Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has been over Transport inspection pit and I was provided 2 weeks to repair these "jack/jack stand battle scars" to maintain the manufacturer rigidity

IMG_5008.jpg

IMG_5006p.jpg

I saw somewhere on this forum that someone make brackets/panel for these things so that I can just weld them on top of this bent chassis. The search is down at the moment and not very useful.

Does anyone know where I can get them from or what else can I do to fix this issue?

I now know why there is so much love for the Transport inspector. I've been asked to fix up a few other minor issues too like replace a missing plastic part behind the door open lever, enclose and vent a dry cell battery in the boot etc etc. However PLEASE please keep this thread healthy and constructive :(

Edited by 9krpm

First off, those aren't jacking points. The jacking points are under the side sills. Or use the gearbox mounts. The chassis rails are very soft in compression, as you can now tell.

Take the car to a crash repairer. They can probably fix it in a day. Couple of years ago, cost me around $250 to have one side fixed.

Thanks blind elk. I know they are not jack point but the jack points are usually collapsed in most skylines because of age or overservicing :) The transmission mount is too far back to use for the hoist as most of weight of the r32 is at the front. The engine subframe is too far forward for an asymmetric arm hoist. So that point is often used by workshop to lift/jack the car :(

I have access to hoist and welding machine. Is there any DIY fix?

Also how did the crash repairer fix your?

Edited by 9krpm

I used a big allan key and was able to massage some of the dents out :blink:

The metal is a lot softer than I expected. There are few more dents all the way at the front that is quite difficult to reach...I may need to call a dent master to come out.

I am really keen to know how your repairer remove those dents blind_elk

Hi 9krpm - We had this repair done not too long ago at a crash repairer. What they did was weld a long lever to the area needing to be pulled out. Lifting the lever with a lot of force pulls the metal out. The longer the lever, the easier it will be for you. When the rails were straight, the lever and welds were removed and the rails painted with black rubber paint. The rails are dead straight now and look like new - I was pretty imprressed. Hope that helps.

Mine failed pits the first time around for the same reason, plus a host of others.

Remedy for the amount of damage that was done was to cut away and re-box the chassis rail.

  • 1 year later...
Mine failed pits the first time around for the same reason, plus a host of others.

Remedy for the amount of damage that was done was to cut away and re-box the chassis rail.

time to revive this topic

I'm currently looking at getting this fixed on my car which looks in

pretty bad shape, is "cutting and re-boxing" a safe option, any legal

issues?

Would rather get it pulled straight using the fore-mentioned technique with lever

anyone care to add any suggestions or reccommend a trust worthy panel beater

in brissy??

My rails were re-inforced with ~4mm steel plate across the bottom and the outer, plus a bunch of other steel work. This was part of a fairly major rust repair - the car was farked when i brought it into the country.

I can now jack my car from virtually anywhere along these rails. I usually use a trolley jack with a thick lump of rubber on it to help it grip and not damage the por-15 rust proofing paint i used on the entire underside :domokun:

cutting out the bent rails and replacing is actually the best option and believe it or not you can actually buy those parts new from nissan! you can buy the new chassis rail pieces and take them and your car to a smash repair place and have the old bent rails cut out and the nice new rails welded in place.

best bet is to go into a smash repair you trust and ask them what method they'd prefer. the new rail pieces were not that expensive. under $200 from memory.

My rails were re-inforced with ~4mm steel plate across the bottom and the outer, plus a bunch of other steel work. This was part of a fairly major rust repair - the car was farked when i brought it into the country.

I can now jack my car from virtually anywhere along these rails. I usually use a trolley jack with a thick lump of rubber on it to help it grip and not damage the por-15 rust proofing paint i used on the entire underside :rofl2:

How much did the rail enforcement set u back??

cutting out the bent rails and replacing is actually the best option and believe it or not you can actually buy those parts new from nissan! you can buy the new chassis rail pieces and take them and your car to a smash repair place and have the old bent rails cut out and the nice new rails welded in place.

best bet is to go into a smash repair you trust and ask them what method they'd prefer. the new rail pieces were not that expensive. under $200 from memory.

brilliant tnx Richard, didn't realize that was an option, now to find part no and quote :domokun:

I was lucky to have a local repairer who's a TAFE teacher and delighted in doing something different for a change. $250.

I believe he used a die to thread the hole and pulled it down.

Tyrepower at such 'n such a place dropped the car off a jack onto the rail - stupid idiot.

  • 3 months later...

Sorry to go digging for an old thread.

I have been looking at a few R32s recently and most seem to have some dents in the chassis rails under the car.

But how much is too much? Couple of examples below.

Are these safe and would they pass roadworthy? If not can they be repaired? What's would be the approximate cost (in Melb)?

2271704370102364341S425x425Q85.jpg 2595036160102364341S425x425Q85.jpg

Thanks guys.

But how much is too much? Couple of examples below.

Are these safe and would they pass roadworthy? If not can they be repaired? What's would be the approximate cost (in Melb)?

Don't worry about it, I went around a few workshops in the area with photos of rails under various cars and got some very useful feedback. Highly recommended if you're considering buying.

Make sure you look out for 'ripples' between floorpan and the chassis rail, it's a good sign of a compromised rails. Being crushed by jacking is not necessarily as bad, although that may be expensive to repair too.

Cheers

Solution for the long term is to ditch your $50 supercheap trolley jack and get one with a decent sized plate and rubber on it. That way you are apreading the weight over a larger surface area of the rail and less likely to bend/crush it. I jack mine up on the cross member usually but if I need one whole side up I go off the rail, I;ve never had this issue.

i wouldn't mind the 4 mm sheet metal bent into rail shape. i have been told that panel beater's remove the spot welds to get it out, hammer and dolly it straight then reweld.

Edited by Dan_J

Most damage is caused from forklift drivers in japan when they pick the car up for shipping

The forklifts driver should be kicked in the balls by everyone on SAU

Edited by NISSAN GTR
  • 2 years later...

i know this is an old thread but i have been stressing since i bought my 32 after seeing the rails and have wanted to get it fix,now i know its possible . So anyone know a workshop in brissie that could do the job,or even better someone that has had it done resently with good results. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...