Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah wont be dropping it.

The roads around my way are a joke.

Cant even get in the servos around here as it sits.

I had a EiBach lowering kit but sold it ;)

cheers for the kind words guys

I got the Eibach springs on mate, car looks great - Ill have to get some new pics up as soon as it stops raining so I can wash it :down:

Hey guys,

Have added a couple of bits to the car. Took some photos with the iPhone, so excuse the quality of the pics:

• CF Rear Diffuser

• US Battery Cover (to cover the right side of our engine bay)

• CF Hood Hampers

• Eyelids

post-60700-1275488378_thumb.jpg

post-60700-1275490206_thumb.jpg

post-60700-1275490380_thumb.jpg

post-60700-1275492077_thumb.jpg

post-60700-1275492881_thumb.jpg

post-60700-1275495748_thumb.jpg

The USA G35 forums say that the cheapest version on Ebay is a POS, but the more expensive one is rather good fitment and look. From memory the cheap one is around US$200 + shipping and the god one is US$400 + shipping.

After a good two months of waiting for my order to be shipped. My Inven front bumper for the coupe finally arrived from the U.S. Will post pics as soon as its fitted with my impul sides.

post-66891-1275885743_thumb.jpg

Edited by CRISP 35
I got the Eibach springs on mate, car looks great - Ill have to get some new pics up as soon as it stops raining so I can wash it :thumbsup:

good to hear. :thumbsup:

I would have loved to use them but have trouble at the stock hight.

Cant wait to see some pics

^^^ looks great .... what are the width and offset of your wheels?

thanks for the comments.

19 x 9 +22 (F) on 245/35R19

19 x 10 +22 ® on 275/35R19

no rubbing but then again i haven't dropped it and i travel light. read somewhere here that the max width at the rears to avoid rubbing was 9.5" at +22 but the extra rim depth was too tempting.

Thanks for the info. I bought my LMGT4s in 9.5 +20 and the fronts are perfect but the offset on the rear is sadly lacking. Once I lowered the car it severely cambered in (and looked very shite), so I got some SPC rear camber arms, and the alignment workshop brought the camber from 4 degrees back to about 1.5 degrees. Looks a bit better now, but I definitely agree with your 10 +22s on the rear - I am going to buy a pair of 9.5 +12 or 10 +15s for the rear of my car to make it look better. In fact I am going to try some 20mm bolt-ons for a car show this weekend, so we will see how she runs with 9.5 +0 :wacko: - I will post pics next week. Note too I am running a stretched 215 on the front and 235 on the rear (I like the drift look), so will get no rubbing.

Nice wheels :wacko:

My 9.5 +18 rears, wearing 275 wide tyres, were VERY close to scrubbing. In fact one of them was scrubbing until i had the camber adjusted (using the factory camber bolt).

I've since had my guards rolled and dropped the car even lower. I'm now suffering the same problem as nightcrawler. It has caused additional camber and the wheels tuck-in too much, looking much crapper than before.

My plan of attack is to eventually fit some spacers and slightly stretched tyres (245 maybe). Night crawler, if you could throw up some pictures of your setup with 20mm spacers, it would be really appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I bought my LMGT4s in 9.5 +20 and the fronts are perfect but the offset on the rear is sadly lacking. Once I lowered the car it severely cambered in (and looked very shite), so I got some SPC rear camber arms, and the alignment workshop brought the camber from 4 degrees back to about 1.5 degrees. Looks a bit better now, but I definitely agree with your 10 +22s on the rear - I am going to buy a pair of 9.5 +12 or 10 +15s for the rear of my car to make it look better. In fact I am going to try some 20mm bolt-ons for a car show this weekend, so we will see how she runs with 9.5 +0 :banana: - I will post pics next week. Note too I am running a stretched 215 on the front and 235 on the rear (I like the drift look), so will get no rubbing.

no prob. your set up looks great judging from the track pics you posted and the wheels look hot. front is perfect already and putting on the spacers at the rear should bring it out to match it. looking forward to the pics.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...