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Guilt-toy Now Running On E85 !

Guilt-Toy

By Guilt-Toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
my setup needs some attention. I am running the stock mspec front bar and have not chopped out the reo bar because i like my car to be legal.

The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the air con condensor, so its heating up there, i added a air con thermo fan and have replaced the clutch in the engine fan.

Its just that the radiator cannot get enough air from the front. its a Mspec radiator as well.. I need to move the oil cooler and install another thermo fan i think.

Try fitting an alloy radiator and a Nismo thermo stat.

Sounds like i have a similar set-up to yours, but i have cut the reo :), and my temps are mainly stable at 64-68deg. The highest i have ever seen it was 86deg at a drift day.

PS: Bonnet vents help alot too ;)

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Guilt-Toy
Guilt-Toy

Did you know.... The first production car the Ford Model T 1908 was flex fuel compatible ? It could run just as good on ethanol as did on gasoline. There was a brass knob on the right side of the stee

Guilt-Toy
Guilt-Toy

so i got a bit keen today and went for a drive to the united and grabbed 40 litres of e85. went to try and syphon it and got it on my lips, damn it burnt!! so i gave up on that idea.... we had a s

Birds
Birds

Mick, I don't see the point of pushing every last kw out of an engine in a daily driver. I mean each to their own and all that - bit different for track cars. A tune will forever be a compromise betwe

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W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Try fitting an alloy radiator and a Nismo thermo stat.

Sounds like i have a similar set-up to yours, but i have cut the reo :), and my temps are mainly stable at 64-68deg. The highest i have ever seen it was 86deg at a drift day.

PS: Bonnet vents help alot too ;)

Who did you get to fill in the missing bits around the inside edge of the bar openeing?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Who did you get to fill in the missing bits around the inside edge of the bar openeing?

A plastic welder in East Keilor, VIC.

I think they have closed down since, but you should be able to find one in the yellow pages.

D1-COP Explorer

D1-COP

Posted
Posted

im keen to give it a go on the track, will c the EPA about it considdering the fact that i have no cat... ill need to do some mods before she is finished however will need a good tuner. Guilt-Toy seems to have his head screwed on with loktite lol might see him about it....

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try fitting an alloy radiator and a Nismo thermo stat.

Sounds like i have a similar set-up to yours, but i have cut the reo :banana:, and my temps are mainly stable at 64-68deg. The highest i have ever seen it was 86deg at a drift day.

PS: Bonnet vents help alot too :)

nice setup! i do have a alloy radiator, its a mspec one. my temps are okay on a 40deg day when my air con is off, as soon as i turn the air con on the temps go through the roof... got up to 102deg today (cycle idle was off)

I got a new genuine nissan thermostat as well.

My oil cooler is on the other side so my fan is where your oil cooler is.

dano4127 Veteran

dano4127

Posted
Posted

are you running a rediator shroud? I broke mine and havent been able to find one recently and I find my temps sit around 86' compared with 81' when I first fitted the ally radiator with shroud

Hey Al have you got more pics of your car somewhere its on f*kin clean gtst!

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
are you running a rediator shroud? I broke mine and havent been able to find one recently and I find my temps sit around 86' compared with 81' when I first fitted the ally radiator with shroud

Hey Al have you got more pics of your car somewhere its on f*kin clean gtst!

yes i i do have the shroud.. seems my car runs a bit hotter for some reason... might try some better coolant or move the oil cooler? my oil cooler is heaps bigger then that one on Als car

(OO)Firty Free(OO) Rising Star

(OO)Firty Free(OO)

Posted
Posted
not to mention a std air box

his injectors are maxed out tho, he should think about an upgrade, i suggested sard 850's would give some nice headroom.

Just an update for those interested, i have noticed this thread has been a bit quiet of late.

I have sold the 555's and in the process of purchasing SARD 850's (should receive mid next week).

Also purchasing 24psi actuator off a fellow member which i should recieve early next week also.

POD filter has just been bolted back on.

Be interesting to see how it goes holding the 24psi boost with plenty of fuel and air. Adrian will be tuning again (your a legend mate whats this make it 5 or so now). If it feels noticeably different it will getting run up on the same dyno again. If not it can wait til next months dyno comp.

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

I'll add my 2c too.

We finally fired up my RB25DET at the end of last week using 910cc inj' and running E85 for the first time.

Scaling ~25% fuel out of the map for the old 550's saw it start up and purr away like a kitten.

And now that the Adelaide temp's have dropped from 'insanely hot' to mid 20's I'm expecting a dyno number sometime next week. Still have to do a bit of tidying up after the rail and injector change, but it all looks neat enough.

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whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted
:) Ha-ha. He's a man with a memory like an elephant. I was considering upgrading the cement to top quality 300*300*40 pavers, as not only do they give a nicer Autosalon style boot display, but they also allow more adjustment in weight distribution :)
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

GT: May I suggest attempting to swap your radiator for a stock Koyo one?

Have seen issues from Alloy rads not dispersing heat properly.

Either that, or chuck a volt meter in the coolant whilst engine is running, and against battery earth... Do not let the probe in the water touch metal of radiator.

Then do a test from rad itself to battery neg...

If you get a voltage usually about like 0.5Volts on either, throw an earth strap on the rad.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
GT: May I suggest attempting to swap your radiator for a stock Koyo one?

Have seen issues from Alloy rads not dispersing heat properly.

Either that, or chuck a volt meter in the coolant whilst engine is running, and against battery earth... Do not let the probe in the water touch metal of radiator.

Then do a test from rad itself to battery neg...

If you get a voltage usually about like 0.5Volts on either, throw an earth strap on the rad.

you mean a stock nissan one? i do have a spare actually.. and as for the earth, i already have a earth strap on it.. put that on a couple of weeks after i got the alloy radiator...

I am getting one of those swirl pots, to go on the cooling system. when i turn the car off i can hear bubbling in my coolant system.. just noticed it.. maybe the top mount turbo is causing air in the line and causing the extra heat?

is it bad to run the engine at 100deg? or 97?

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

Brief stints at those temp's are nothing to be majorly concerned about, but if it's a regular occurrence I'd be looking at rectifying the situation, GT.

It's not something simple like a dud radiator cap is it - I know it's one of the first checks you would do, but I thought I'd ask.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
you mean a stock nissan one? i do have a spare actually.. and as for the earth, i already have a earth strap on it.. put that on a couple of weeks after i got the alloy radiator...

I am getting one of those swirl pots, to go on the cooling system. when i turn the car off i can hear bubbling in my coolant system.. just noticed it.. maybe the top mount turbo is causing air in the line and causing the extra heat?

is it bad to run the engine at 100deg? or 97?

Bubbling is also an indicator of head gasket or head problems which would also cause it to run hot.

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