Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a side note, I used a few tanks of E85 and just pulled my motor out and turbo off..

Both the inside of the manifold/turbo exhaust housing and turbine wheel are squeeky clean, amazing stuff! Almost looks like the car is running lean because there is zero soot after using the E42.5

downsides to the Ethanol's cleaning properties - where did all that crap wind up? Not that it all comes off at once of course :P

On an entirely related note (and this is going to make me look dumb) is an R33 GTS-T's fuel tank plastic or metal? Is there any materials inside the tank that can rust? It has been mentioned that if there is, filling it with ethanol would be a bad idea. All the shit in there gets cleaned out, then finds it's way through your pump and injectors, etc etc...

downsides to the Ethanol's cleaning properties - where did all that crap wind up? Not that it all comes off at once of course :P

On an entirely related note (and this is going to make me look dumb) is an R33 GTS-T's fuel tank plastic or metal? Is there any materials inside the tank that can rust? It has been mentioned that if there is, filling it with ethanol would be a bad idea. All the shit in there gets cleaned out, then finds it's way through your pump and injectors, etc etc...

Mine is metal, as long as they are galvanized the ethanol shouldn't react with the steel, 33's should be fine, not sure about the 32's.

You do run a fuel filter right?

Yes of course I run a filter - but no filter is perfect, not to mention just how quickly it could become clogged and restrict flow if huge shit is coming through.

So R33's are a plastic tank of some kind? Or are they galvanised steel? As long as there shouldn't be rust inside the tank, I'm happy.

Cats car has had a tank of ethanol sitting in it with the filler off and the pump cover removed (open to moisture for 3months) and there is no EVIL shit going on like is rumoured to happen.... i will leave it open to continue experiment :P

engine was internally mint (stripped to sell in parts) and exhaust etc is all fine.

Been running for over 18months now with no ill affects whatsoever. I too have left E85 in the tank for about 4-5months, no dramas.

I have a washable fuel filter and gets cleaned every service. The first 2 cleans had noticeable debris, after that it has been pretty clean.

Spoke to the attendant at Kambah earlier - he says within 2-3weeks they'll be pumping the good shit. They should have the equipment coming round this coming week to suck everything out of the existing E10 tank they'll be using, then clean it all out in preparation for filling with e85.

lolwut

That's retarded...when they WERE on the list, the servo had no idea what was going on...now that they're OFF the list, the servo expects it in the next couple of weeks.

hurr durr.

hahahahaa love it

Cats car has had a tank of ethanol sitting in it with the filler off and the pump cover removed (open to moisture for 3months) and there is no EVIL shit going on like is rumoured to happen.... i will leave it open to continue experiment :P

engine was internally mint (stripped to sell in parts) and exhaust etc is all fine.

can come one do a graph of injectors on E85

i.e

x6

555's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

700's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

1000's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

thanks heaps

and am i right by thinking say 90PSI fuel pressure means 2x the cc?

Edited by yogibear

If you read this thread you will find there is quite a large difference in when people run out of injector duty cycle due to a myriad of different factors.

Remember a base fuel pressure is only a base. I think the standard base fuel pressure is 3 bar ~ 43psi, although it will raise 1psi for every 1psi of boost pressure. So if you are running 20psi of boost pressure then you are running 63psi of fuel pressure.

and am i right by thinking say 90PSI fuel pressure means 2x the cc?

no. double the pressure only yields ~40% more flow

skylines run a 3 bar fuel system standard, this means fuel pressure is always 3 bar (42-43psi) above inlet manifold pressure. this means theres a constant pressure difference between both sides of the injector (fuel on the rail side and air on the inlet side) resulting in constant injector flow.

  • Like 1

no. double the pressure only yields ~40% more flow

skylines run a 3 bar fuel system standard, this means fuel pressure is always 3 bar (42-43psi) above inlet manifold pressure. this means theres a constant pressure difference between both sides of the injector (fuel on the rail side and air on the inlet side) resulting in constant injector flow.

holy shit! someone who understands the basics of a fuel injected engines fuel system! well done. :)

most people have no idea. also no way is practical to take your standard 3 bar system and expect everything to be good at double the base pressure. 86psi base is going to cause some problems. first of which is most pumps will not be flowing anywhere near what they were at 3 bar under 6 bar...

if you are short on fuel supply by a small amount, 3 or 4% or something by all means use some more pressure. but anything more than that just buy the right size injectors and pumps. end of story.

  • Like 1

Just fueled up my 1st tank of E85 from Gosford caltex, i ran the tank extremely low so i would help reduce mixing of 98, then filled up @ 119.9 costing a total of $70 instead of $90 for 98,

from first start my idle went straight to 16.9 AFR from 14.3(98)

a quick change of injector size got the idle AFR back to normal,

Got my Fiance to cruise around while i touched up a few areas.

i used to get 400km to a full tank, ill see how this tank goes just cruising, then ill put a fresh batch in and strap it on the rollers,

without touching ignition timing the car feels more responsive, gave it a quick hit and it feels on par with 98, hoping to see some good gains once i tweak the timing.

current numbers on 98

293kw 18.5psi

255kw 14psi

  • Like 1

Roughly how much would I be looking at for a full retune onto E85? Obviously depends on where you go, and how good the tuner is....but for arguments sake, let's say Yavuz @ Unigroup...just wanna know if I can afford it just yet :P

Roughly how much would I be looking at for a full retune onto E85? Obviously depends on where you go, and how good the tuner is....but for arguments sake, let's say Yavuz @ Unigroup...just wanna know if I can afford it just yet :P

If you already have a full tune then a rutune on E85 wouldn't take too long...most tuners should be able to get in right in about 1-2 hours depending on how much time they spend on full and partial load maps and so on...of course this can change depending on what state the car is in and a whole load of other factors...so for your case...it depends on how much your tuner charges per hour...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...