Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

How do you get rid of the mist/fog on your headlights. I've got xennon's on mine and I can see white fog/mist on the plastics. I thought it was on the outside but it appears on the inside. When i go wash the car they disappear but after 10-20 minues they come back.

I know it's an inherent thing with Stagea's but I would like to fix it and keep it clean (man why Nissan couldn't make it glass to save us some time and the headaches)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239796-xennon-headlights-mistfog/
Share on other sites

i remember spoting something at supercheap to fix this. it involves removing headlight, pouring in the liquid and moving the light around so all the area gets covered and voila. 1 shinny new looking piece of clear plastic apparently...

I took mine off and took them to a plastics shop where they sanded them back with a very fine sandpaper and then buffed them. They came up great, made them clearer at night and the only thing wrong with them now is the ageing cracks on the inside of the plastic cover. Best bet is to do what the others have said and use a plastic polish, or if you have access to a buff, you could always try sanding and buffing.

Use meguiars PlasticX plastic polish and then protect them with PLEXUS.

i can vouch for this, my old 33 headlights went crappy as they all do, used the PlastX on them, and they came up like literally new.

even ScratchX will work if you have that.

Looks like i'm going to go find some PlastiX and Plexus - where's the best place to buy them from??

RBPOWA - Use it on the outside, most people say it's on the outside where it fogs up and it would be a pain the in you know where if you had to do that on the inside

As I said before why didn't Nissan use glass instead of plastic...we'll never know

I usually get my plexus from marine chandlery shops, great for tail lights as well (originally designed to protect plastic aircraft windscreens). PlastX was harder to find, ask at supercheap maybe.

For those looking for a cheap intermediate solution (while trying to hunt down the above mentioned products)...try using toothpaste. Most toothepastes are mildly abrasive - enough to "polish" the headlights. DO NOT get it on the paint (or anywhere except the plastic headlight) obviously but it will clean up the plastic headlights fairly well if you use a bit of elbow grease (and wash it all off afterwards). I've done it a couple of times before and it works ok - not as good as meguiars PlasticX plastic polish but may be all you need.

WARNING: try it on a small patch of the light first to make sure it works on your car. (end of disclaimer).

brasso works too. ive used it on mine. it got rid of the yellowish hepatitis tint on the headlight :banana:

you hardly have to rub. just apply a small amount on a rag, rub over a small area, give it a minute to dry, and then wipe it off with a clean rag.

i cant compare it to plasticx etc. but it works pretty well for surface issues.

sorry to hyjack ur thread but does anyone have any issues with moisture getting inside their parking lighs on their s1 stags? My passenger side does it and it looks crap IMO. Any ideas on how to fix? I tried some windscreen glue but obversly didnt get all the holes or leaks... any other ideas?

do not use tooth paste . sure it is abbrasive and will polish things BUT unlike actual polish it has no control over the size of the grinding particles . think about it . and dont use it on glasses and cds and everything else someone who thinks their clever has told you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...