Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

^^^ rich & retard lol

Be more specific in your questions, and seek more specific answers.

You can't expect a question like "My HICAS is broken, how do i diagnose and fix it?"

it's like saying.........i've got itchy balls, what should I do?

people are going to tell you to scratch them...........unless you own up and let them know that you rooted some slag that has syphilis

ZOMG LOL.. funny shite... i'd say cut em off (info i picked up from the forums)

easily

but id go with 115/45's

you could just use rubber bands. i have seen it done.

you guys are seeming to think i am the one saying "my hks bov got installed and now my car stalls at red lights"

i am just speaking in generalization and observation.

Actually the thing that annoys me most is when people do help out, do answer questions & then the original poster cbf'd making the effort to confirm the suggested fix worked or otherwise. Leaving the poor bloke searching the thread at a later stage none the wiser.

Agreed

You give them the help, advice etc and then they say they dont need it anyway.

Something like this muppet does by saying he'd rather listen to mechanics than us... well, of ya go then!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...bo-t240336.html

Im just glad r34NRG got shut down :ninja:

No need to say that. :down:

his posts were always insightful and informative.

The problem is that 7-8 years ago it was all new and shiny. no one knew what the hell rich and retard was, nor that an atmo bov didn't work too well with a MAF.

Unfortunately after 8 years of people asking the same questions they aren't too new and shiny, and people are well beyond the point of patiently retyping the same old answers so just type search.

even 3 years ago i would happily re type my experiences converting the r32 to rb25det power, now i just can't be stuffed anymore.

I dare any member thats been around for that length of time to dig up some of their first posts and see how truly stupid they were.

The other thing was that 7-8 years ago most people didn't expect to be spoon fed the answers, they'd go out and fault find, and if they didn't get anywhere they'd post a question. There's a basic lack of mechanical knowledge these days and it shows.

on every forum ive seen, theres some criticism about the forum community, but this site is definitely tame. due to reasons such as the price of skylines, meaning that the average owner age is slightly older, not to mention P laws cutting out most of the newcomers.

you just need to look at an american car forum where 15 and 16 year olds can pick up a car for a few hundred. then it becomes an animal pit

Ahhhh have a whinge

People are stupid, it may have taken awhile for this to become apparent to you....but now it has it's time to accept & deal with it.

Mis-information (bad advice) is rife, why? because those that know their ass's from their elbows got fed up with arguing with tools long ago.

This thread is extremely un-Australian in it's nature and blatantly divisive...dun like

Search

+1

:ninja:

LMAO love it! :down:

I actually got annoyed with a few people and posted a FAQ up. stops a lot of this crap.

those that know me know I'm usually spot on with the info I provide.

on every forum ive seen, theres some criticism about the forum community, but this site is definitely tame. due to reasons such as the price of skylines, meaning that the average owner age is slightly older, not to mention P laws cutting out most of the newcomers.

you just need to look at an american car forum where 15 and 16 year olds can pick up a car for a few hundred. then it becomes an animal pit

the average age is still in the late teens and early 20's. not exactly 'older'. we still have 16 year olds coming on here asking what to look out for when buying a gtr as a first car.

it is more tame because the moderators keep it that way. not because of the age.

the average age is still in the late teens and early 20's. not exactly 'older'. we still have 16 year olds coming on here asking what to look out for when buying a gtr as a first car.

it is more tame because the moderators keep it that way. not because of the age.

I find it tame because ya'll a bunch of girls... :P

And why is this in General Automotive Discussion? Like, WTF? Wrong section?

Also.. Search...

I avoid a lot of the threads in Forced Induction area, and go straight to the RB30DET area, it's more tech then the out right Forced Induction I find... Less "I did all of this shit like changing my BOV, now my car stalls, but I want the flutterz, make the stalling stop without changing BOV"

There's on any day "What ecu should I get" "I changed my BOV, now stalling" and a couple of other similar threads taking up HALF the forced induction first page...

My favorite:

Just joined the forum, first post, can't spell, wrong sub-forum, wanting to be spoon fed answers.

"HAI I"M A NUuB AND I CBF CLICKIGN TEH FOROM SUBFOROMS SO I"L JUST ASK HERE,

WEHER DO YOU PuT THE PETORL AND WUT TYP SHUD I YOOS?"

I actually got annoyed with a few people and posted a FAQ up. stops a lot of this crap.

those that know me know I'm usually spot on with the info I provide.

absolutely. and if everyone who posted search wrote and then linked to an FAQ as well think how much more accessible this place would be.

there is a whole FAQ forum here where new topics are moderated to make sure they are all tutorial style.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...IY-FAQ-f57.html

so next time you post "search" consider being more helpful :(

Trust me, it has improved over the years but oh-so gradual increments that are almost immeasurable.

SAU is one of the better information portals... You try dealing with the tools on NissanSilvia.com, you get fed up with the repetitious threads that come up weekly.

- What's the best exhaust?

- What's the difference with JDM and ADM?

It's the 80/20 rule applied. "Bullshit/Real shit" ratio of actual useful replies.

We've all been 'noobs' at one point or other. I'll admit that even after owning 3 skylines there's still a lot of things I could learn if I was bothered to.

We can gripe all we want but this thread brings up a good point.

How about writing a beginner's guide that they MUST click on to register their account, it will say things like if you don't know use the search button and tell them how to find it. OR restrict their access in a sub-forum for a certain period of time say 4 weeks. You could name the forum noob central or skylines 411 whatever, but there they could have access to stickied (and closed) links to various aspects of skylines as well as a single thread they could post things if they want to

That way, if they still ask stupid/old questions, They will have no excuse and we can rip into them without mercy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...