Jump to content
SAU Community

best turbo for rb20det?

s13s15

By s13s15,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

just high flow it. not much more lag than std, and mines pushing 250rwhp at 1bar. thats got the afm maxed, the injectors are prob on the edge too being a red top. strangely the std fuel pump still has some left, unless it was modified in jp. can be done for around 1k or another option is the rb25 unit with similar results but ceramic exh so itll be on the limit

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

A HKS2530 will give you "Plenty of performance" - around 210-230rwks

Beyond that it cost substantial $$$. What $$$ are you realistically looking at spending on just turbo???

I would love to see what a properly setup HKS2835 with manifold/wastegate/ECU/injectors/AFM would do on an RB20.

A Trust TD06L2-20G-8cm kit with manifold/wastegate is about as big as id go, any bigger and boost response may be compromised a little too much. (Lag in negligible, with boost response bumped up about 1200-1500rpm)

  • 9 years later...
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

wat's the best turbo for the rb20det, without too much lag, fuel cut etc. and with plenty of performance??????? :burnout:

n e ideas or info wuld b much appreciated

a garrett 2871r would be in the range, a 0.63 rear housing and cranked up to 18-20psi with possibly some E85 to make it come alive even more..

there common on sr20's from what ive seen/read.

raZ1911 Proficient

raZ1911

Posted
Posted

How much power are you aiming for?

They have nothing before 4 grand anyway just get a TD06L2 20G 8cm (like $799 from the kando or a billet one from hypergear), a few people have said they have moved from something like a 2530 to something larger and not noticed much difference.

But it depends what you want if you want a whole highmount setup or if you want to keep it as stock looking as possible etc etc.

Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
Posted

You mentioned fuel cut. There's no point upgrading the ECU if you're not going to remap or Nistune the ECU at least. I'd go a Garrett GTX3067R with an ATP divided .82 housing on stock manifold modded for external gate.

That would be quite disgusting to drive until 6000. Divided housing then put it on a stock manifold, not really that helpful there

bradsm87 Proficient

bradsm87

Posted
Posted (edited)

Divided housing then put it on a stock manifold, not really that helpful there

I'm assuming RB20 manifolds are the same as RB25 ones and are divided (other than the 5mm gap which can be welded up)? Why would it be disgusting until 6000? Stock manifold will have better response than aftermarket. I am referring to the new smaller GTX3067R, not a typo of a GTX3076R. The divided .82 housing has better response than an open .63. This setup would be more responsive than a GT-RS/GT2871R with the right tuning and cam gears with a fair bit more top-end potential. Why would this be discusting until 6000? Disgusting on tyres I guess haha. Edited by bradsm87

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...