Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much to get that done?

Same price as all his other OP6 high flows I imagine, around the $1500 mark I think.

A 260kw highflow using OP6 rear end would be the best performance highflow he does using the stock housings.

std high flow would has the best drivability which cost $960 inc GST and braided oil line or use PU high flow that also capable of 300rwkws cost $1400 with a brand new .82 rear housing and actuator.

The 3540 sort of high flow cost $1200 using all stock housings, I didn't like they way how it drives, its very laggy.

  • 1 month later...

Hey everyone.

Got some questions regarding vehicle defects

I recently parted with my hard earned on a 1998 40th anniversary R33.

The previous owner said the car was imported in 2008 and that he bought it 2 months later from a dealer

It has tein adjustable coilovers, which he told me were a defect (i knew that before i bought it) as well as the boost guage located on the drivers side door piller and a Greddy boost controller(Which is now removed).

He then told me that the car was imported in its current state.

This confused me because the car would have had to pass through Regency before it was able to be sold.

WHY did the vehicle pass with clear breaches of the rules and WHY did the dealer then proceed to sell him the "Unroadworthy" vehicle, it makes no sense

I am also hazy on the BOV regulations. Are aftermarket BOV's defectable alltogether or are they legal if the pressure is plumbed back into the system?

Cheers

Slack inspector is basically the only reason it got through, the majority will not pass adjustable coilovers.

It is possible they paid a workshop to comply it and get it registered, workshops will put 100% stock gear in, get it registered then swap all the mods back on.

The latter is much more likely.

I had the same issues with mine, A pillar boost gauge , coilover shocks, dump pipe from dealer , who knew it was defects but didnt care. just wanted the cash. they put all stock gear on it then swapped it over afterwards

mine went thru regency without a buckle on the seatbelt and they didnt catch it. .. safety inspection my ass. I caught it the day I bought it. test drive , no way to secure the belt.the part wasnt there at all.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Just wanting to know if anybody has had any answers to know if aftermarket turbo's (GT2860-7) will pass through without any hassles on a 33R?

Thanks

At a visual inspection do they look identical to stock turbos? If not then no it will not pass.

Remember they will be looking from above and from below. Do they have tags on them which indicate they aren't factory nissan? if so remove them. Any markings, numbers or letters on the housings may be a give away, grind them off and then grease it up so it doesn't look brand new imo.

Hi Guys,

Just wanting to know if anybody has had any answers to know if aftermarket turbo's (GT2860-7) will pass through without any hassles on a 33R?

Thanks

They >should< pass, whether or not they pass without hassle is another thing (depends on the inspector) - you >may< need a document that declares that the 2860 series are a direct bolt on replacement for the OEM turbos (I believe MTQ has these?)

Good luck

-D

At a visual inspection do they look identical to stock turbos? If not then no it will not pass.

Remember they will be looking from above and from below. Do they have tags on them which indicate they aren't factory nissan? if so remove them. Any markings, numbers or letters on the housings may be a give away, grind them off and then grease it up so it doesn't look brand new imo.

I reckon they would get through, they look the same, same size and no modifications to fit. and you can barely even see the turbos. I think if u look hard enough, at one angle with a torch you can make out the word Garrett

They >should< pass, whether or not they pass without hassle is another thing (depends on the inspector) - you >may< need a document that declares that the 2860 series are a direct bolt on replacement for the OEM turbos (I believe MTQ has these?)

Good luck

-D

Thanks for the reply guys, I will give MTQ a call tomorrow and seek a bit more information.

I have it booked in for inspection at Regency on Tuesday so hopefully the car passes without any massive problems.

Once again thanks for the help!

Josh

they aren't going to boost more than your current boost controller so their levels should be the same

but their airflow at the same boost will be greater, hence different load points?

I am assuming they have different trim wheels.

they aren't going to boost more than your current boost controller so their levels should be the same

In most cases yes, but that also depends upon the PSI rating of the actuator attached to the turbos

Garret make em in 7, 14 and 21 psi...

All are legal (but never as accurate/safe as an EBC, therein lies the dilemma)

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...