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The Defected Thread...


Cubes

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thanks guys. i'll just put the factory hicas system back in. now with the exhaust, its got a 3" turbo back. do they just check the db? whether they do or dont, if i put my stock cat back exhaust on would that pass? ie 3" turbo to cat.

Edited by Nozila
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Just reading back from the thread,

My car is currently awaiting its 2nd inspection and im looking for 2 parts.

1. tie rod ends

2. castor rod bushes

I've called regency 2 times so far and both said rose jointed stuff is illegal. I made a mention of grease nipple type which one of the operators said that they will double check and then came back saying no not allowed either way.

So my question is, what can i get to replace the tie rod ends and castor rod bushes that is definately legal? i.e. what brand/type of stuff have people been through with and were passed with as regency information centre is as reliable as a cheap chinese dildo.

Also worth mentioning is that I've already talked to few import places and no one can get new factory tie rod ends so it seems.

I just replaced my tie rod ends a couple days ago - $45 each at Jap Import Spares($65 each at Autotech, $110 each at Niswreck). Castor Rods be done in the next few days sometime, my bushes are Mcf**ked too - might be borrowing off a mate but cheapest I got quoted was $85 each at Jap Import Spares($125 each at Niswreck) but I'm considering getting the bushes re-done($150 for both bushes) but awaiting a mate to get back to me see if he can source a set of Castor Rods for cheaper.

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thanks guys. i'll just put the factory hicas system back in. now with the exhaust, its got a 3" turbo back. do they just check the db? whether they do or dont, if i put my stock cat back exhaust on would that pass? ie 3" turbo to cat.

Yep - db test at idle and up to 4000rpm (or 4500rpm).

Had to be lower than 92db! So shove the stock cat/baffles/steel wool/a small rabbit in there to quiet it!

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I got thru with a locked diff.

they will check hicas bar. its easy to see.

castor rods etc were pretty easy to find, I found.

had them sourced and fitted in one day at boostworx

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as you can see, im a defect virgin. never been defected before. my mate told me about the brake test, to see how long it takes to stop - im assuming that what you are referring to preiss.

with the wheels/tyres, i had a mate who went through with some jap rims [17"] a few yrs ago, and they were fine. as it seems to be somewhat difficult to source stock r33 rims/tyres atm, would his rims do? the reason why i ask is because the mate who told me about the brake test [who went through defect himself a while back] said they look at size and profile of wheels/tyres.

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Yep - size of the rim cannot exceed 2" from what's on your tyre placard... so, say, Skylines came out stock with 16" rims... you can have any type of 17" mag on there and get though BUT the width of the tyre must not exceed more than 10mm from that's on the tyre placard (pretty sure it's 10mm or 25mm...)

Brake test is when they put your car on rollers, get to a certain speed (pretty sure it's 60k's) and either rip up the handbrake (that's what they did in my car!) or slam on the pedal brake. The car must stop within a certain amount of time. Slotted rotors are fine... but if you have massive rotors, you might not be able to put a smaller rim on to pass Regency!

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Ive been thru regency 4 times with various wheels. Never checked them.

As long as they arent hugely oversized should be fine.

yeah the brake test is pretty simple. never heard anyone failing that .

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my rotors aint slotted, the brake disc is just really thin. thats what the guys said to me a few years back when he put my brake pads on to bleed them and wear them in.

what about exhaust? aftermarket exhaust that is under a certain db would pass? i really cant be bothered putting the stock exhaust back on.

also, do you need rear brake lights - the middle one, not just the four rounds ones? as i got a stealth wing. if you do, can i just hook up a rear brake light inside the car?

Edited by Nozila
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Yep as long as the aftermarket exhaust is under 92db @ 4-4500rpm then you'll be fine. Just shove a heap of shit into it to quiet it down! Steel wool works a treat... take it easy on the way there and just rev the shit out of the car after you leave and watch it fly out :) but baffles, another resinator, etc will help.

There's no restrictions on how large the exhaust is... as long as it exits out the back of the vehicle, doesn't protrude out the rear bar too much, and if it's angled, it MUST be angled to the right (stupid, but true!).

Edited by CRoNic...
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You will be very suprised with your exhaust.

I had a loud exhaust I thought. and a nice size too.

It passed . - 88db

of the 4 times ive been there, ive only been tested once for db.

take it easy when u go in and you may not even get tested.

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cronic

you pulling my leg mate? angled to the right, how is that possible? i think all af exhaust are either straight out the back or angled to the left. damn, i guess my stock exhaust must go back on then.

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Lol let me get the rules... hang on...

Edit: Here!:

EXHAUST SYSTEMS AND NOISE

Replacement Exhaust Systems

Extractors and aftermarket exhaust systems may be fitted provided that the sound levels specified in the Road

Traffic (Vehicle Standards) Rules 1999 are not exceeded. On vehicles required to comply with ADRs 26, 27 or

27A, extractors may be fitted provided that any emission control devices, which were originally fitted to the

exhaust system, are re-connected and operative. Vehicles required to comply with ADR 37 or 37/.. may be

fitted with extractors or after market exhaust systems provided that the catalytic converter is retained and any

emission control equipment fitted to the original exhaust is incorporated in the replacement item.

Exhaust Outlets

For vehicles manufactured prior to July 1988 the requirements are not specific, however, vehicles submitted to

Transport SA will be acceptable if:-

a. The exhaust outlet exits beyond the last door or window opening on the side or rear of the vehicle;

b. The exhaust outlet is as close as possible to the outer edge of the vehicle but not outside or underneath

the vehicle;

c. The exhaust system, if contactable, is adequately shielded and any sharp or hazardous projections are

suitably treated.

For vehicles manufactured on or after 1st July 1988

The exhaust must exit to the rear or on the right hand side and extend at least 40 millimetres beyond the

furthermost outboard or rearmost joint of the floor pan that is not continuously welded or permanently sealed.

No exhaust outlet is to extend beyond the perimeter of the vehicle when viewed in plan.

The exhaust outlet, if to the side of the vehicle, shall discharge to the right hand side of the vehicle and

downwards at an angle to the horizontal of not less than 15 degrees and not more than 45 degrees.

The exhaust outlet, if to the rear, shall discharge at not less than 10 degrees above or 45 degrees below the

horizontal.

Exhaust Noise

The exhaust systems on vehicles manufactured on or after 1st January, 1974 must at the time of first registration

comply with ADR 28 - Motor Vehicle Noise.

In service all vehicles must comply with the Road Traffic (Vehicle Standards) Rules 1999 Part 10 Division 3 –

Noise Emissions.

For passenger cars, derivates and panel vans manufactured on or after 1 January 1983 the stationary noise level

when tested must not exceed 90 dB(A).

Transport SA

September 2003 Modifications to Passenger Cars, Car Type Utilities and Panel Vans Page 13 of 25

Passenger cars, derivates and panel vans manufactured before 1 January 1983 the stationary noise level when

tested must not exceed 96 dB(A).

Edit: I fail. It says that only applies to exhausts coming out the SIDE of the car! Sorry dude lol. I was reading it quickly the other night!

Edited by CRoNic...
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I just replaced my tie rod ends a couple days ago - $45 each at Jap Import Spares($65 each at Autotech, $110 each at Niswreck). Castor Rods be done in the next few days sometime, my bushes are Mcf**ked too - might be borrowing off a mate but cheapest I got quoted was $85 each at Jap Import Spares($125 each at Niswreck) but I'm considering getting the bushes re-done($150 for both bushes) but awaiting a mate to get back to me see if he can source a set of Castor Rods for cheaper.

WTF i called jap import spares and nisswreck and they both told me that they cant get new tie rod ends :S:S fk my luck

anyways, I found a dude in SA that sells new ones for $29 each and a set of non adjustable castor rod bushes for $59 (but then you need to get them pressed in)

he's on ns.com as a trader "Shock Systems" if you're interested.

www.shocksystems.biz

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hmm looking at my exhaust from the side, it still sticks out of the rear bumper a bit. im not gonna take a chance on that. do they check all the hangers of the exhaust system, cause since its aftermarket atm putting the stock one on would leave a few hangers/rubbers joints unused.

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