Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have tried a seach...

But what I'm after is some advice...

Im looking at getting either Tein flex or the cusco zero 2's

Has anyone had any experience with these 2 coilovers? pro's and con's?

What are they like for track use?

Currently I have bilsteins shocks, whiteline springs - these are a good package for street, but as the car is being used more

and more for track use, Im looking to get either one of these two.

Or is there any others I should look at besides these 2 types?

Are the ISC/d2/g4 coilovers any good for track work?

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248405-coilover-upgrades/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I have tried a seach...

But what I'm after is some advice...

Im looking at getting either Tein flex or the cusco zero 2's

Has anyone had any experience with these 2 coilovers? pro's and con's?

What are they like for track use?

Currently I have bilsteins shocks, whiteline springs - these are a good package for street, but as the car is being used more

and more for track use, Im looking to get either one of these two.

Or is there any others I should look at besides these 2 types?

Are the ISC/d2/g4 coilovers any good for track work?

Cheers,

Chris

Hey,

havent had those 2 brands before but I have BuddyClub, they squeek a little and they're a little expensive but they are good, and are really stiff in the back end.... I dont know where you are, but there is a place in QLD that sells pretty good brands like that its called 999automotive its in beaudesert. There are so many brands to choose from when it comes to suspension.. its a painful decision :D have fun.

Ashleigh

Cusco zero 2's are not that flash and sure as hell not worth the money they ask for them. The Teins seem to be a pretty safe bet, all roudn flexible and good quality shock.

I was in a similar position regardign a change from Whiteline street package and going to the Teins. I went Teins as thats what is better supported in club car circles down here in Vic. With Heasmans and Bilsteins beign so well supported in NSW then i atrip to them to get your current Bilsteins tweaked or up spec'd should be seriously considered.

i'v got the tein super streets which are excellent for mostly street with light track work. however additional sway bars do harden the ride and make them an excellent track option.

i know people with the flex's and they are a better track setup for our cars. theyre a lot harder. better for track not so good for street.

ISC N1's are a fantastic coilover for the money. If you have any questions feel free to send me a pm/email etc. If you have a big budget we also sell DMS coilovers for $3000+.

Thanks,Ryan

Edited by ISC-Performance

Because a spring is a spring is a spring...within reason. So changing the spring rate isnt address the whole situation. Provied the shocks all come out and the increased spring rate is accompanied by a change to the shock valving then i am confident the Bridgestones would be great. Being in Sydney i think this is your best option.

I personally use the TEIN super streets and they are a good comprimise for ride comfort / street use and some track use, they're a bit too soft if youre looking to pick up every split second possible on the track though.

A good mate of mine uses HSD-HR's and they are awesome value for money (he's a whole second quicker around Wakefield with less power than me), they're really stiff though so not good for street use.

Have a look at - http://www.otomoto.com.au/ for prices on HSD's :D

Because a spring is a spring is a spring...within reason. So changing the spring rate isnt address the whole situation. Provied the shocks all come out and the increased spring rate is accompanied by a change to the shock valving then i am confident the Bridgestones would be great. Being in Sydney i think this is your best option.

Sorry I should have made myself clearer.

When I changed from a Whiteline spring to an Eibach I changed the spring rate because the Whitelines were too soft for track work. The upside is that the Eibach spring is a lighter spring than the Whiteline - about 4 kg between the four - this despite having a higher rate. Also you can select from a wide range of rates whereas with the Whiteline you are stuck with one.

You can revalve the Bilsteins if you want/need to. SK didn't recommend doing so going from a SK/Whiteline package to a 5kg front /4kg rear on an R32 Gt-R.

So you MAY find it possible to change to a harder Eibach spring & keep your (unmodified) dampers for quite a bit less money than shelling out for a Tein or similar package.

Edited by djr81

Thanks for all the replies guys, its certainly alot to think about!!

Just throwing this one out there....

The D2, G4 and ISC type coilovers - how would these compare with just the tein super streets?

Or would these be pretty much similar?

Just throwing it out there for a bit of discussion!

Thanks for all the replies guys, its certainly alot to think about!!

Just throwing this one out there....

The D2, G4 and ISC type coilovers - how would these compare with just the tein super streets?

Or would these be pretty much similar?

Just throwing it out there for a bit of discussion!

I'm not so sure about the ISC, but the D2 and G4 are very stiff, my personal choice would be the Super Street.

i ran d2 in my r33 (track-spec ones);

the only thing i have them to compare to are my current setup tein type RS; and as you can guess the tein are miles ahead of the d2 in everyway.

having said that i found the d2 to be a good entry level coilover for the track (i did drift and few mc days) but they very bumpy on the street, i find the type rs to be less bumpy then the d2 (if i remember right my d2 had some crazy spring rate like 14/16)

Love my Tein Type Flex. Changed spring rates and valving (all done by Fulcrum on the chassis dyno) and believe that I now have the ultimate ride for street. If I need to adjust for track work the EDFC has plenty of adjustability in it.

Either of your selections would be good.

cheers

the tein super streets will be a downgrade from what you have. they are the cheapest entry level teins are a twin tube shock about on par with the factroy GTST gear. the bilsteins you already have are mono-tube just not adjustable.

I wouldn't bother 'upgrading' to anything less than tein MONO-flex as at least they are mono-tube. but if you really want something better look towards some tein type RS or type RA. they are monotube, circuit oriented suspension, and have all alloy damper body, lots of height adjustment and the valving and springs are chosen and set-up with circuit use in mind. unlike the mono-flex which are more street oriented. be careful with flex vs mono-flex too. the old flex were twin tube, then they had mono-flex, but I believe the new flex are mono-tube, but it would pay to make sure of what you're getting.

imo D2, G4, HSD, ISC etc are a waste of time. I've never driven a car with a set that I thought was that good. and they will certainly be a step backwards from what you have now. and yes I even have a set in one of my cars (silvia). I forget which type though, i think HSD.

the other good options out there are some good ohlins dampers which are quite cheap out of japan. and if you are buying springs seperately look at some swift springs. they are japanese, and good gear and not too expensive either.

now that the AUD is so weak against the yen and USD it may be worth looking at local options which are now competetive on price. maybe talk to murray coote (he does pro-flex gear) who makes very good gear, or jamie drummond (DMS) also good stuff and has some more affordable options than the coote stuff. they both make shocks for lots of top cars in all types of aus motorsport.

not big fan of coil overs to bumpy

Usually not an issue on the track, unless you are off the track and in the dirt.

Chubbeh... I suggest you get Tein, simply because they are Jap-spec and green. Everyone knows green jap-spec coilovers are ftw lol

On a serious note, if and when you get new coilovers, let me know. I might know someone interested in putting them in another boat :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...