Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If that was directed at me you can fit a 360 rad up top or 280, 280 rad up front and 240 rad down bottom if you remove the hdd cages, plenty of space for water cooling infact it's designed for it!

And I'm running the H90 (single 140mm radiator)

Edited by UNR33L

nah man the 900d is way too massive, like its HUGE. the 750d is the one to go trust me it's a mint case so much 140mm fan support! check out some video reviews

it's my first corsair case, definitely has that 'classy' look about it I likey.

Edited by UNR33L

This will decimate all, after, you put about fifteen hundred in it or more...if we have to...overnight parts from MSY...

6Rw75EQs_original.jpg

Always feels like Christmas when you buy a heap of mods for your car/computer!

  • Like 1

nice,.....is that a 4gig ddr5 Graphics card?.. :woot:

i bought one of those corsair PSUs a while back, expensive bugger and I figured it was bulletproof with its 5 yr warranty...farken thing died within a year, Not happy, took it back to store for refund/replacement..

oh yeah we dont have them in stock and anyway we have to send it back for warranty blah blah...aint nobody got time for that, i need a psu and i need it now...so settled for some cheaper no-name unit as replacement and cause it had detachable cables to free up room in my box... its been going for couple of years now without drama...go figure that shit out hey...

Sucks about your psu, but almost every quality manufacturer of computer bits has defects here and there too. I don't mind as long as they stand by their warranty. Have heard mostly good things about the Corsair brand, though. It's modular too, so I can remove all the unwanted cables which is important in an MITX case.

Yep it's Gigabyte's over clocked GTX770...1137mhz base and 1189mhz boost for the geeks. More exxy than the standard affair, but I didn't wanna cheap out on a card and I don't feel the 780 is worth another $200 - it's still a new top end card with top end price. With a 770 you're only ~8fps shy of a 780 in a game like BF4. Will see how it goes pushing the 2560x1440 resolution...if it lags I'll get another 770 for 8gb SLI and be laughing for a few years.

Sucks about your psu, but almost every quality manufacturer of computer bits has defects here and there too. I don't mind as long as they stand by their warranty.

lol warranty & MSY... have fun with that.

My PSU is a thermal take and its pretty bawse.

also on a hunt for a GFX card since finding a GTX465 to SLI is a bit of a waste of time. jelly of the shitloads of gfx memory though...

leroy what do you want to spend? there are plenty of options available. I usually go for geforce card but after doing the benchmarks and what not when i built mine a few months ago the ATI cards where light years ahead so opted for the 7970 x 2 (7990 had just came out) can be over clocked if required

that being said the GTX 680s are awesome aswell tho seem to be still exy for what they are.

ill stick with nVidia because EVGA is badassssss and the ATI cards occaionally have issues with games on launch.

yeah 680's are pricey... might look into the 770's though since theyre newer. Will do research once my car is done and can upgrade my comp + failed SSD.

Sucks about your psu, but almost every quality manufacturer of computer bits has defects here and there too. I don't mind as long as they stand by their warranty. Have heard mostly good things about the Corsair brand, though. It's modular too, so I can remove all the unwanted cables which is important in an MITX case.

Yep it's Gigabyte's over clocked GTX770...1137mhz base and 1189mhz boost for the geeks. More exxy than the standard affair, but I didn't wanna cheap out on a card and I don't feel the 780 is worth another $200 - it's still a new top end card with top end price. With a 770 you're only ~8fps shy of a 780 in a game like BF4. Will see how it goes pushing the 2560x1440 resolution...if it lags I'll get another 770 for 8gb SLI and be laughing for a few years.

"modular" thats the word i was looking for :laugh:

yeah to be fair it could very well be the cabinet it was in, not much ventilation and my receiver was right next to it...I have since cut the back of my cabinet out to flow more air and swapped my amp and PC around so the psu is not right next to it...receivers do tend to get rather hot..but I was never pushing the limits of the PC, its only a HTPC no gaming...so still think it was bit weak but who knows...might of been a power surge or something...

I've had my corsair HX850 for years cost me near $300 back then but a sick PSU.

  • BrynDETT - Birds bought some components off me, CPU is a i5 3570 I got some good results with 3mark 11 & my 780ti - his rig gonna be a beast as well.

Heres a 3dmark 11 result with my old M-itx rig that is now Birds - http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7498787

For argument sake here's my new rig with my graphics card overclocked a bit more and CPU at 4.4ghz in this one: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7558925

Edited by UNR33L

wat cpu u running that with?? 3dmark time :)!!!

i5 3570...see above for 3dmark haha. Although that might be a bit quicker than mine, given 780ti, which is a beast card (and around $800+). I will need to do some OCing to get anywhere near that. Will post results once I have it all assembled.

ill stick with nVidia because EVGA is badassssss and the ATI cards occaionally have issues with games on launch.

yeah 680's are pricey... might look into the 770's though since theyre newer. Will do research once my car is done and can upgrade my comp + failed SSD.

ive had no issues with bootup and have tried 50+ games :P

main issues are SLI/Crossfire as there is alot of games that dont support it.. like the new need for speed for instance

lol warranty & MSY... have fun with that.

My PSU is a thermal take and its pretty bawse.

also on a hunt for a GFX card since finding a GTX465 to SLI is a bit of a waste of time. jelly of the shitloads of gfx memory though...

Meh I'll just go straight to manufacturer if they give me shit. But my local MSY are pretty friendly guys.

Good rule of thumb I read on toms-hardware the other day, was to buy the best single card you can afford / justify, then in 6-12 months SLI it with another when prices for that card have come down even more. For me this was 770, because it's a few months old now, so still a great performer, but with superseded pricing cause of the 780/Titan/690.

MSY and warranty are bad, hate dealing with them have done it once for a motherboard. I only ever go there if PCCG/scorptec don't have what I want in stock like for my new build was the ram only hehe..

Contemplating getting rid of my vertex 3 ssd and getting 2 samsung evo pros & running them in raid 0 - thoughts? worth it? would hammer! but in terms of real world performance probably better off keeping my money lol

Edited by UNR33L

Meh there's always VCAT, which is just down the road from MSY lol. They are even cheaper than PCCG; I saved about $100 in my build by going with MSY. Hopefully the risk pays off!

Do you really need to preserve your data for more than 17 years? Just get the standard EVO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...