Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Head was fully reconditioned but no porting was done. Tomei type B valve springs and new bronze exhaust guide inserts. Grex 264/9.3 cams. Tomei cam gears.

25psi boost.

BP 98 fuel.

Built and tunned by Jim at Dart Automotive.

It has plenty of response and mid range. Very happy with it.

Tim.

post-224-1286265041_thumb.jpg

This is my build thread but it hasnt been updated with new dyno graph above.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/32...ld-t320793.html

Edited by R32 Zilla
good work, its definately got a 10 in it with a good driver :down:

definitely!

i did an 11.1 with 320awkw (if i changed into 4th across the finish line & not hit the limiter in 3rd, it would have been a 10)

with 390awkw it is well truly a mid 10

good work, its definately got a 10 in it with a good driver :down:

Give us a chance! haha. I only got 3 runs the other night before it rained and it was called off. I was getting faster with each run. We were slowly dropping tyre pressures. Got an 11.21 @130 on the last run with a 1.78 60ft. As some of you know its not as easy once you get up around this power especially on street tyres. With my old motor it was just a case of giving it everything to reach its potential. But yea it is easily capable of a mid to high 10 with either some more practise on street tyres or a simple tyre change would get me there.

This is no drag set up though. If I wanted it to be faster over 400m I would have chose different turbos/turbo and made 500kw which this motor could easilly handle. I chose the -5's for response on the street and for hill climbs and the circuit etc. I like corners.

Oh and the 390kw is RWKW not AWKW Marko. I dont think that makes a lot of difference but lets not start that debate again haha.

Tim.

i ran 10.98 @ 130.7 mph with 405awkw, on old street tyres, federal 595s. and worn out os giken clutch,

last week with 285kw stockis R32 GTR just power fc,exh, steel wheel turboes, 3/4 tank of fuel, spare wheel, jack, all interior in etc ran 11.7 @ 118mph on my 2nd run, got booted out cause i didnt want to renew my ANDRA licence,

i spent over 45g on my last GTR to get 10.98, my new GTR i have spent maybe 4g, big difference in costs to get from mid 11s into the 10s

oh and i didnt mean to start a big war on rwkw to awkw :P

Just a question that is kind of related to here; in my quest to get to 400kW :(... does anyone know if you can use Supertech bronze manganese valve guides with Ferrea oversize valves? Ferrea don't make any for the RB26 apparantly.

Just a question that is kind of related to here; in my quest to get to 400kW :(... does anyone know if you can use Supertech bronze manganese valve guides with Ferrea oversize valves? Ferrea don't make any for the RB26 apparantly.

I dont see any reason why you couldnt.

I may actually be able to join this list very soon!! things are finally looking good! tho it may be steves 500kw club!

i will be going GTRS on a built 2.6, 280 10.8's, E85, CR box with as much boost as it will allow 2 bar close.. then back it off to keep things together haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...