Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EGT's are and must be measured out of the head and on each cylinder. If say cylinder 4 gets too hot and the rest are ok, then richen up just cylinder 4 under the boost levels where it is a problem.

Get it within where you need it, and keep tuning knowing your number 4 piston is safe and happy and you can keep leaning on your cast pistons.

Have a look at this video. Its not an RB but still a cast piston and standard 2.5 probably made in the same factory as nissan pistons.

This engine eventually died from a broken rod bolt after the owner held the engine over 9000rpm for about 15 seconds doing a skid.

All the pistons where perfect after 2 years of abuse with power levels of around 650rwhp.

EGT's never went over 800c when raced ;)

O yeah. Watch the dyno on the first run....... then watch me crap my pants.

Yeah pretty much what we all do at some stage or another,

Willowbank a number of times. 10.2 @ 145 was the best. A lot of spirited street driving and power cruise's and track days at queensland race way.

The car wasnt diven every day, but is definatly a testiment to what can be done to a standard cast piston when achieving 400rwkw.

Yeah thermocouples.

A heat gun will only tell you the component temp of the exhaust manifold.

A thermocouple will tell you the gas tempreture inside the component.

We use a tempreture logger with 8 channels the plugs straight into my laptop. They are pretty fast and super accurate

Edited by HYPED6

Thats correct. We use a 5mm metric thread in our sensors and just weld a nut on each runner.

It does sound like a pain, but Id rather pull my exhaust manifold/manifolds off than clean small pieces of melted piston out of my sump.

Most people just include it in there next build or turbo up grade.

For our setup we paid around the 2k mark. That was a few years ago now. The sensors have had a flogging with almost every fuel you could think of and they are still perfect.

would it be possible to make a sandwich plate with egt sensors in them?

How big are the sensors?

Edit: 5mm

You must have posted as I was typing

Edited by zoidbergmerc

Similiar to on my car Rolls, whether you saw or not?

In front of the windscreen you can see them bundled up.

post-12828-0-38483100-1305613541_thumb.jpg

You drill and tap a hole in each runner, pretty well same distance away from port so temps are equally measured. Actually I guess only if the runners are thick enough, otherwise weld on a nut or machine up a bung and tap a thread in that and weld it over the hole, which is what I did with my extractors.

My set-up was under 1k when the dollar was pretty weak, only downside is the outputs can't be fed into the ecu so I have to log egt separate to everything else. The kits come with everything you need inc the bungs, no need for custom bits.

egts.jpg

My set-up was under 1k when the dollar was pretty weak, only downside is the outputs can't be fed into the ecu so I have to log egt separate to everything else. The kits come with everything you need inc the bungs, no need for custom bits.

egts.jpg

Where did you get your setup from...?

My set-up was under 1k when the dollar was pretty weak, only downside is the outputs can't be fed into the ecu so I have to log egt separate to everything else. The kits come with everything you need inc the bungs, no need for custom bits.

egts.jpgwacko.gif

where did you get the kit from ??

oops didn't read the above post first wacko.gif

Edited by tricstar

Fail! 3&1/2 inch dump is restricting. New dump on the way. Do it all again.

sigh....

Go 4" Noel and wind it up!!!!! I did a quick search and it seems no one has really taken the plunge and gone with the GT3788R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, nothing formal, just open track days. Mostly small and tight circuits but I would like to get back out to Eastern Creek at some stage.
    • What type of track driving will you be doing?  Do you have a set of class rules you need to abide by that will limit your rim / tyre width?
    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...